cutting or heating an XX ops

[mixtery 0]

anyone have any experience with this?

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

Yep. In fact, I have done this recently. It should bear noting that the most current XX versions have been rumored to have the methodology with which they cover the fuse point improved. I have not witnessed this. Mine was a 2004 model (and an early one, I THINK). It still had the grey-ish "goop" over the fuse point. After use, the goop did have a small hairline mark through it (so I knew exactly where the fuse point was).

I heated the hell out of the blade portion (all below the fuse point). It changed notably in color, while leaving the shaft relatively unheated. This defined the fuse area further. Then I placed the blade in a vice, and started a liberal heating above the fuse point and yanked like hell. The blade didn't want to come out per say, but it did come out in one piece (tenon and all) and left me with the reusable shaft.

After doing that, and recently converting a Synnergy, makes me wonder if that's not the way to do all fused OPS. Allows for resuable shafts (but again, it's about sales, and that won't increase sales. Furthermore, the Synnergy has the composite stiffener (graphite) fused over the joint to further concentrate the kickpoint and strengthen the fuse area. It probably yeilds better performance that way, but it can be a bitch to modify once the blade breaks).

[A_Steeves12 0]

Ive done it aswell with an XX. heated for about 5-10 mins stuck the blade in the vice, pulled, poof tapered XX shaft. Like Ogie the bottem was discoloured a little bit.

[kovalchuk71 212]

Ive done it twice with 1st. gen. XX sticks and it worked like a charm...

[NYR14 0]

I have done it too. Although I did have to cut down the width of the new Bauer XV blade to make it a go. I mean it was just a scosh, but the blade was bigger.

[sweetblazer 0]

Im wondering if I could do this with a broken in half XX and use the blade?

[hockeydude_49 0]

I've taken a broken in half vapor xx and cuz it off at the fuse point and shaved it down, put some glue on it, and stuck it into a shaft.

[notquitedeadyet 13]

I've done that too, but I didn't heat it, I sliced through the shaft lengthwise with a dremel, & peeled it off. The glue is white, so when you see it you know you're through the shaft.

Was pretty easy & I was left with a perfect fitting tapered blade.

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

I have done it too. Although I did have to cut down the width of the new Bauer XV blade to make it a go. I mean it was just a scosh, but the blade was bigger.

I've noted that not all tapered blades are made equal.... it seems that a wood tflex is slightly wider than say my mission radiant hosel. That being said, my mission fits perfect in my XX, where as my wood tflex is pretty damned tight and would likely need shaving the tenon or cutting the shaft slightly.

im wondering i could do this wit a broken in half XX and use the blade?

Sure, I imagine you could do that easily. Try not to over heat the blade area if you were going to go that route. The material is differnent than the shaft and looks like it doesn't take to heat as well.

[A_Steeves12 0]

im wondering i could do this wit a broken in half XX and use the blade?

yes im sure you can. i was just messing around with the blade i took out of the XX shaft and put it in my R2 shaft when i had it, needless to say i only took one shot because it was alread broken just not all the way.

[twiztidwrista10 3]

Hey, i just did this with my xx and it works, it takes a while tho. You gota get it really hot. There was some white smokey powder that came out when you pull the blade out, I dunno what that is. This is great because i wanted to try a taperd xv blade and this is the same thing. If i like it I might get rid of my synthesis (no feel).

[kovalchuk71 212]

There was some white smokey powder that came out when you pull the blade out, I dunno what that is.

Sounds like a good way to smuggle Drugs out of mexico ;)....Not Coke Lois, Pepsi!

But really its epoxy

[flashgordon 0]

Sorry to bring back an old topic, but I need some dremelling advice. I have a Pro Stock Vapor XX (probably of the 2003 vintage). I tried removing the blade using heat, but to no avail. So I cut the blade off right at the fuse point (it was readily visible) and now have to deal with getting the tenon junk out of the shaft. I made a $17 investment at Cdn Tire and got a rotary tool, but I'm not sure what connection to use to get the junk out while not damaging the walls of the shaft. Here are some pics of what I'm up against - sorry for the poor quality as my auto-focus camera seemed not to want to focus. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

http://img81.imageshack.us/img81/7204/p10103124ej.jpg

http://img72.imageshack.us/img72/3293/p10103142rl.jpg

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

It really should have just been heatable. However, what I have done in the past on my Synnergy's was to drill a bolt inside of the remaining tenon, put the bolt in a table clamp, heat, and yank.

[flashgordon 0]

It really should have just been heatable.  However, what I have done in the past on my Synnergy's was to drill a bolt inside of the remaining tenon, put the bolt in a table clamp, heat, and yank.

Believe me, I tried heating for quite a while but it didn't budge. The problem with the bolt idea is that the inside of the tenon is odd - it's not solid composite. I don't know if you can tell from the pics, but the tenon has two cylinders of foam in it (the yellowish circles), leaving nothing for a screw/bolt to latch on to. The only option that I see is digging the junk out. Basically what's left of the tenon is a figure-8 of graphite.

[lee92 2]

i have a xx at the moment, and i'm just curious, with all the excess heat on the shaft/blade to pull the blade out, would this not weaken or warp the shaft or blade?

secondly, can you heat it up easily with a heat gun, or would a stove top be better?

[Ogie Oglethorpe 14]

It really should have just been heatable.  However, what I have done in the past on my Synnergy's was to drill a bolt inside of the remaining tenon, put the bolt in a table clamp, heat, and yank.

Believe me, I tried heating for quite a while but it didn't budge. The problem with the bolt idea is that the inside of the tenon is odd - it's not solid composite. I don't know if you can tell from the pics, but the tenon has two cylinders of foam in it (the yellowish circles), leaving nothing for a screw/bolt to latch on to. The only option that I see is digging the junk out. Basically what's left of the tenon is a figure-8 of graphite.

That's actually fairly typical. Find a bolt the approximate size of the cylinders and you don't even have to drill.

As for the question above, who cares if you warp the blade? Typically, you wouldn't be doing this to save the blade, would you?

And no, it doesn't warp it. However, if you over heat it, I could see it doing damage.

[golfpuck 0]

n/m