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yesido

Shooting problem

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For the past several years I've been using a composite shaft/wood blade combination (TPS Red Lite, Shanahan blade). It got hacked into 2 pieces in a game though, and since I wasn't getting the puck up as quickly as I wanted anyway, I decided to try a more open blade. I recently switched to a 2 piece Warrior combination - Dolomite shaft with a Kovalev blade. The problem is that everything except slap shots now seem to be flying (more like fluttering) off to the right. I even missed an open net with the goalie pulled the other day, and I was inside the blue line at the time. I'm obviously hitting the puck on an angle, but now I'm trying to figure out why it is happening.

My initial thought was that maybe the lie is wrong for me, but with the rocker on the Kovalev it's kind of hard for me to tell. My other thought was that maybe I need more of a mid-curve rather than a heel curve to cradle the puck better. And then there is, of course, the possibility that I'm just not yet used to using a composite blade with a heel curve.

Any thoughts would be appreciated, as I am debating whether to buy a different blade to try. Thanks.

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you could be losing your feel for where the puck is, and the puck would drift away towards the toe.

Or you just might not be turning your wrists over enough

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The toe curve on the shanny probably would have kicked your shots a little to the left, while the puck is just rolling off the end of the Kovalev and going a little right. It's a different blade, you just have to aim a little differently. As for the flutter, work the puck heel to toe on your shot and it should stay much more level in flight.

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Going heel to toe with a Kovalev/Drury induces flutter. It's designed for a strong wristed snapping motion, probably the most difficult curve to get used to .

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Going heel to toe with a Kovalev/Drury induces flutter. It's designed for a strong wristed snapping motion, probably the most difficult curve to get used to .

The heel to toe thing works perfectly for me, but I have strong wrists as well.

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With a Drury, I find best results going just before mid blade. From the heel my shots do flutter slightly and they aren't as accurate. These Drurys are making me develop bad habits.

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I had this flutter issue when I tried a TPS Nash. My solution - I stopped using the Nash.

Nash/sakic curve rocks.

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With a Drury, I find best results going just before mid blade. From the heel my shots do flutter slightly and they aren't as accurate. These Drurys are making me develop bad habits.

Recently I started using a Nilson pro stock and it's a milder version of the Drury.

Since I have alot of bad habits to begin with I also find that shooting off the heel and trying oh so hard to turn my wrists over helps keep my shots low. The only time I let it roll is when I do saucer passes and if I want to raise the puck from up close.

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Hmm. I have a fluttering problem when taking slappers with the nash/sakic. No problem on wristers though.

The rocker is tricky for me, since the p106 and iginla I have on hand stay flat, regardless of shot height.

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I found Sakic was getting it up too much for me too easily, and I was getting a weak fluttery shot with it.

I had a Nash, and I couldn't do jack. To me, it's got the same depth and start as Sakic, but finishes with less hook that wasn't letting me do much of anything with it.

I now use a mild closed heel and I can shoot the same off the whole blade, getting the most power and spin by starting heel, letting the puck pull the blade back to get it rolling on the face, then snapping my wrists over while taking the shot.

Once I move to a lower flex and work on technique, I should be sniping with power a lot better than my current pissy shot that falls back to the ice before the net unless I shoot close in. My backhand is better than some of the guys that have been playing for years though, I love the straight blade.

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To go along with Chadd's statement, I'm wondering how many kids actually work on wrist strengthening (omgz beating off lolzor) or just try to find blades/curves/sticks to compensate instead?

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To go along with Chadd's statement, I'm wondering how many kids actually work on wrist strengthening (omgz beating off lolzor) or just try to find blades/curves/sticks to compensate instead?

I would also like to know how to develop stronger wrists. Does that workout where you twist a stick and roll up a weight work on that?

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Going heel to toe with a Kovalev/Drury induces flutter. It's designed for a strong wristed snapping motion, probably the most difficult curve to get used to .

yeah...the first time i used a Drury...i had a horrible shot...then every shot was $$$$$$ so now i hav an Ovi....like most ppl, i'm used to and love this curve, and i prolly won't switch for a wile

I would also like to know how to develop stronger wrists. Does that workout where you twist a stick and roll up a weight work on that?

yeah...thats exactly what its used for...i made one using stuff i had around the house and it works like a charm...does the job very well

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I would also like to know how to develop stronger wrists. Does that workout where you twist a stick and roll up a weight work on that?

There are a few exercises for wrists, you need to do multiple so the strength isn't built lopsided.

Weight curls (5lb weight in hand, arm on table, lift wrist only)

Resistance turning (circle your wrist with a weight or one of those resistance balls)

Straightening (in pushup position, keep your fingers curled in and slowly lift from your palms to your knuckles or fists)

I'm sure there are plenty more.

Working on finger and grip will also help wrist strength as well.

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Shooting until your arms fall off works wonders also.

plus use a heavier, mayb even a woodie in pracice, works like a doughnut on a bat in baseball

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To go along with Chadd's statement, I'm wondering how many kids actually work on wrist strengthening (omgz beating off lolzor) or just try to find blades/curves/sticks to compensate instead?

I would also like to know how to develop stronger wrists. Does that workout where you twist a stick and roll up a weight work on that?

Absolutely and it's something simple to make. I started off with it for baseball but just kept working at it thru hockey seasons as well. You can make them in a variety of ways but mine was just a coffee can filled with some concrete and a string.

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Can I resurrect and thread jack?

I've been using a Modano the last few months, and I love the accuracy in wrist and snap shots. But anytime I take a slap shot, it's unpredictable and will often veer left (I'm a lefty). Any ideas as to what I could be doing wrong? Maybe not rolling my wrists over enough?

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I find the Sakic curve lifts the puck away too fast for my liking. Almost rip off the goalies head with my wrist shots. I've found an Yzerman curve is more accurate and gives my less lift. The best curve I've ever used is the Modano curve because it's not too severe and it still lets me get off a good and accurate backhand shot as well.

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Jarick, what kind of blade are you using? You think it might be a blade torquing issue? You see that a lot with guys that catch a bit more blade towards the toe of the blade on a slap shot. When I change lie or stick length I do that all the time until I get used to the lie or stick length.

This might be another one of my "things learned from pool" but try taking a few shots focusing on different things. Focus on where you're hitting the puck, where the blade is hitting the ice, how much flex you're getting, your weight transfer, how deep your knee bend is. By focusing on perfecting one at a time you SHOULD find something that is off, or something that might help. It works for me.

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Can I resurrect and thread jack?

I've been using a Modano the last few months, and I love the accuracy in wrist and snap shots. But anytime I take a slap shot, it's unpredictable and will often veer left (I'm a lefty). Any ideas as to what I could be doing wrong? Maybe not rolling my wrists over enough?

Leaving the face open through impact, just like slicing a golf ball. Focus on your follow-through and finish with the face pointing down and the shaft pointing at the target.

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I don't think I close the blade on follow through, mainly because I'm used to pointing up at the target on wrist/snap shots (Modano curve). With my P88, the shots were going low and right, with the Modano, high and left. I'm thinking with the P88 the puck rolls/kicks off the toe to the right, whereas the Modano is rolls off the blade to the left. I need to figure out where in the swing I'm supposed to roll the wrists.

It's an L-2 shaft-blade combo. Don't think it's torquing too much, if at all.

I'll try shooting tomorrow and Friday and see where I'm at. And off to Hockeyshot.com and watch the videos again...

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