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shades9323

Curve types, care to explain?

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I know the basic of where most of the curve is concentrated. What I would like to know is what each one is good for. There must be some attributes that set them apart. What are they?

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I know the basic of where most of the curve is concentrated. What I would like to know is what each one is good for. There must be some attributes that set them apart. What are they?

interesting question...I'm looking forward to seeing the answers as well...

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More open faces make your shots go higher easier, but make your backhand shots weaker

Less open faces give you less height, but better backhanding, stick handling and passing seems like it would be easier too

A heel curve will give you explosive slap shots and better deflections and one timers

Mid curves will give you a mix of both, so a more controlled shot and the ability to do all types of shots

Toe curves will give you good puck handling and wrist shots, but will take away from slap shots

Rounded toes will make it much easier to toe drag

That's about all I know.

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seems like it makes sense I guess I need to start trying some heel curves as my slapper stinks...

And I need to try a toe curve, as I don't take slappers! :unsure:

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It is also open to personal preference. Some people who wouldnt use anything but a toe curve have amazing slappers and the other way around. You gotta just try a few out until you find one you like. But what rink rat says is very good information to start with.

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As far as I can tell the Sakic curves (and sakic clones) are the most popular out there. Good place to start... After that have fun over the next ten plus years trying eveything out...

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As far as I can tell the Sakic curves (and sakic clones) are the most popular out there. Good place to start... After that have fun over the next ten plus years trying eveything out...

Seriously... I started with the Modano and Sakic, then used the Lidstrom for a while before coming to the Forsberg the last few years and now just experimenting w/ a Heatley. I can adjust to any curve with very few problems, it's the different lie's that give me more trouble while adjusting... I'm happy with the Forsberg and Heatley curves w/ the 5 lie so I'll be sticking to them for a while.

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As far as I can tell the Sakic curves (and sakic clones) are the most popular out there. Good place to start... After that have fun over the next ten plus years trying eveything out...

I have a Sakic that I have played with a couple of times in my Easton Cyclone shaft. This will now be my back up. I have a Tkachuk in my Bauer Vapor XV that I will be playing with from now on.

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it just takes time. I use a warrior smyth(toe curve) and my slapshots and backhands are just as good. when i got my stick i just went to some open skates, and took shots for about an hour.

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As far as I can tell the Sakic curves (and sakic clones) are the most popular out there. Good place to start... After that have fun over the next ten plus years trying eveything out...

Modano and clones are the best selling blades year after year.

More open faces make your shots go higher easier, but make your backhand shots weaker

Less open faces give you less height, but better backhanding, stick handling and passing seems like it would be easier too

A heel curve will give you explosive slap shots and better deflections and one timers

Mid curves will give you a mix of both, so a more controlled shot and the ability to do all types of shots

Toe curves will give you good puck handling and wrist shots, but will take away from slap shots

Rounded toes will make it much easier to toe drag

That's about all I know.

Most of that is flat out wrong.

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Chadd, would you care to elaborate?

I've used heels, mids, and a curve that had a toe kink on it (not quite a true toe curve) and I have to say my favorite is the one with the toe kink. It's like a slight heel curve with a little curve at the end. I don't normally notice much of a difference between curves, as I adjust to them pretty quick. What I did notice with this one though is it works well for quick shots. I pretty much exclusively use snap shots, and the ability to just grab the puck and fire it is nice. Sometimes with a mid or heel curve, shots like that tend to flutter or you don't get alot of power on it. But I find with the little toe kink at the end, I can fire the puck from pretty much anywhere on the blade and still get off a good shot.

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Chadd, would you care to elaborate?

Sure

More open faces make your shots go higher easier, but make your backhand shots weaker

Loft has no impact on the velocity of your backhand shot. If you think you need more loft to elevate your shot, you really need to practice more.

Less open faces give you less height, but better backhanding, stick handling and passing seems like it would be easier too

See last response regarding loft and shot height, forehand and backhand. ease of passing and stickhanding is personal preference.

A heel curve will give you explosive slap shots and better deflections and one timers

You can fire big slapshots with any type of curve. Deflections are all about how you adjust the blade, and higher is not always better. The best kind of blade for a one timer has a huge rocker on the bottom to better cup the puck. Outside of that it's all talent and not the blade.

Mid curves will give you a mix of both, so a more controlled shot and the ability to do all types of shots

Mid curves are a good place for people to start experimenting, but no curve "gives you" anything. It's about the wizard, not the wand.

Toe curves will give you good puck handling and wrist shots, but will take away from slap shots

Again with the "gives you" thing. Toe curves also have noting to do with shot velocity. I do think that because they tend to have very little curve over most of the length of the blade that stickhandling is easier with them, you can get the same result from a blade with less curve.

Rounded toes will make it much easier to toe drag

Some prefer round, some prefer square.

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Chadd, would you care to elaborate?

Sure

More open faces make your shots go higher easier, but make your backhand shots weaker

Loft has no impact on the velocity of your backhand shot. If you think you need more loft to elevate your shot, you really need to practice more.

Less open faces give you less height, but better backhanding, stick handling and passing seems like it would be easier too

See last response regarding loft and shot height, forehand and backhand. ease of passing and stickhanding is personal preference.

A heel curve will give you explosive slap shots and better deflections and one timers

You can fire big slapshots with any type of curve. Deflections are all about how you adjust the blade, and higher is not always better. The best kind of blade for a one timer has a huge rocker on the bottom to better cup the puck. Outside of that it's all talent and not the blade.

Mid curves will give you a mix of both, so a more controlled shot and the ability to do all types of shots

Mid curves are a good place for people to start experimenting, but no curve "gives you" anything. It's about the wizard, not the wand.

Toe curves will give you good puck handling and wrist shots, but will take away from slap shots

Again with the "gives you" thing. Toe curves also have noting to do with shot velocity. I do think that because they tend to have very little curve over most of the length of the blade that stickhandling is easier with them, you can get the same result from a blade with less curve.

Rounded toes will make it much easier to toe drag

Some prefer round, some prefer square.

So what is the point of the different curve types?

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I've had problems slapping with retail Shanahans and a Bauer P10 Gagne, but the snap shots, wristers, and stickhandling was good.

What's the sweet spot for toe curve slap shots?

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Personal preferences.

Again...bingo

I have seen a ton of top notch players experiment...and it always comes back to PP. We often hear "I love this curve, or I love this open/closed pattern", and think it might work for others, but it doesn't work that way...thus the reason why there are so many patterns. I remember swearing by the Lidstrom, and now wonder how anyone uses that thing! It is also key to point out that you just can't take a pattern by itself with all of the generalities that were described. A blade also must take into account the lie, the length of the shaft, the flex, and the flexpoint to determine the overall outcome. I can't tell you how many times I play and see players using the wrong lie and wonder why they can't stickhandle or catch a pass anymore, but have a great wrister with their banana curve the 10% they can get the shot off.

Like Chadd said, no blade will "give" you anything...but combining all of the pieces together will help you find what works best for you.

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... combining all of the pieces together will help you find what works best for you.

That's the biggest downside to OPS as I see it. There is very little experimentation anymore because people are jumping from one OPS to another at $100-$200 a pop instead of $20 wood blades. Experimentation either doesn't happen or it costs an arm and a leg.

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This topic got me thinking....I pulled out all the old blades that I had made over the years before giving in to the OPS crazy. I had 3 batches of blades made but each batch was slightly different. Personal preference is king. I'm now thinking about going back to a two-piece stick.

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... combining all of the pieces together will help you find what works best for you.

That's the biggest downside to OPS as I see it. There is very little experimentation anymore because people are jumping from one OPS to another at $100-$200 a pop instead of $20 wood blades. Experimentation either doesn't happen or it costs an arm and a leg.

Well spoken Chadd. I have a new 2 piece Vector coming for my son as we speak. The blade on the U+ stick is already shot, cracked on the bottom and has only had it since September playing Bantam AAA. So, instead of the WHOLE stick being shot without modifying the flex and loading, going with the 2 piece I only have to go with the blade replacement. WAY cheaper than the $150-$200 route.

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Whats the whats the advantages and disadvantages of comp over wood blades. I would like to start making my own toe curves again. Only thing I miss about wood sticks. Also is the kick going to be as good on a two piece wd blade, as it would on a ops or two piece comp.

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Composite blades don't go soft and are stronger, but you can not customize a composite blade like you can with a wood, and cost about two times the price. The flex and kickpoint shouldn't change between a composite and wood blade, and if it does, it's very minuscule.

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Composite blades don't go soft...

Some do get soft but they still last much longer than wood for me. I get a couple games out of a wood blade and a couple months out of a composite blade, there is a huge cost savings for me with composite.

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