Cages...

[Datsyukrulez13 0]

thinking of getting a 480, heard they are really nice, does anyone here have a 480 on an 8500? i wonder how it looks....

[starsfan71 9]

I have both but one is to small from my helmet the 480 has thinner bars but the 8500 looks better IMO on nikebauer helmets. I also have a 9500 which surpasses both in all categories.

[beerleaguecaptain 999]

I went from the Titanium to the 9500. I like the 9500 better. It's almost as light - can't feel the difference. It's also a 1/4 the price and I like the pattern and profile better.

[vek 0]

Thanks for the responses. I'm suprised so many people are influenced by aesthetics.... I don't think I even have a pair of matching socks in my bag. If it functions well for me, then my criteria is 99% fulfilled. I could care less how it looks on my helmet.

I've never seen the CCM/Jofa cage, so I'll have to check it out.

[Krev 86]

+1 for the Jofa/CCM 480

[Zamboni 6]

you could always salvage your existing rusty cage. i've done this before and it works great. ask your buddies who has access to a sandblaster. sandblast all of the old paint and rust off. use spray primer and paint - rustoleum works great. the process is cheap and easy to do.

There isn't much meat on those cage wires, throw out rusty cages.

Two weeks ago my kid came out the D door, took a few strides forward and caught a kid with his head down who was coming out of a scrum with puck in his feet. Not sure how it ended up head on head, my guy sort of coils and explodes into the hit and puck carrier must have dropped his head the instant before contact.....kids cage broke with wire entangled in my sons cage.

Luckily he didn't get poked in the eye, the other player ended up down with my son leaning over him shaking his head trying to free himself. I was told later the dad had taken cage from an old helmet and put it on his kids new helmet this season. Granted it might have been stressed if he pulled a small cage on a medium helmet, but I would say throw cages with corrosion in the garbage, that cage had rust at some weld marks our coach said.

[Jarick 5]

+1 for the 9500, thin bars, light weight, don't notice it at all.

[larsen016 0]

Anyone know where to find a white 480 cage?

[trevor13478 1]

Anyone know where to find a white 480 cage?

http://www.puckshop.com/ccm-480-cage.html

http://www.hockeygear.com/jof480chromm.html

[larsen016 0]

Thank you! You have no idea how much time I've spent searching for one. :D

[wetwilly17 6]

you could always salvage your existing rusty cage. i've done this before and it works great. ask your buddies who has access to a sandblaster. sandblast all of the old paint and rust off. use spray primer and paint - rustoleum works great. the process is cheap and easy to do.

There isn't much meat on those cage wires, throw out rusty cages.

Two weeks ago my kid came out the D door, took a few strides forward and caught a kid with his head down who was coming out of a scrum with puck in his feet. Not sure how it ended up head on head, my guy sort of coils and explodes into the hit and puck carrier must have dropped his head the instant before contact.....kids cage broke with wire entangled in my sons cage.

Luckily he didn't get poked in the eye, the other player ended up down with my son leaning over him shaking his head trying to free himself. I was told later the dad had taken cage from an old helmet and put it on his kids new helmet this season. Granted it might have been stressed if he pulled a small cage on a medium helmet, but I would say throw cages with corrosion in the garbage, that cage had rust at some weld marks our coach said.

i sweat a lot and play a lot. for those reasons, i don't think anyone's cage rusts as fast as mine. the rust just affects the very outer surface. sandblasting only removes the rust and paint - not the base metal. i've been doing this process for years and the difference between the strength of my cage when new compared to now is negligible. there is no significant difference between the wire size and weld sizes now compared to when i first purchased the cage. you must realize that any equipment, no matter how strong, has a chance of failing when all the wrong things happen at the same time - such as the hit you described. brand new cages have failed too you know. nothing wrong with sandblasting a little surface rust away.

ps: im an engineer in the nuclear industry with extremely stringent quality assurance requirements. when we overhaul obsolete equipment, we sandblast rusted parts, powdercoat them, and re-install them. this is industry-wide practice and noone (including the NRC) has a problem with it.

[RadioGaGa 162]

There are so many cage/visor topics...but I'll continue in this one. In anticipation of maybe playing in a league and maybe a tournament this spring, I wore a cage last weekend for the first time in about 10 years. After some of the league stories I've read here, I'm not going to risk it with a halfer.

Anyways...It drove me freakin' nuts all game, but here's the thing...not sure why, but I played great. There were a couple plays cutting hard into the slot with the puck, something I normally don't do all that well. And, in the few shifts I played D (this was pickup) I played really well...

I may have to wear it a few more weeks...and if I continue to play well with it...screw how annoying it is...I may just have to keep it.

[sitzlejd 0]

Haha. I was reading all this talk about how sweet the 480 is and I thought, "Man, that cage is nice. I should get it." Then I looked at my cage and realized I already have it. I just never paid attention to what I bought. At the time I just wanted chrome to replace my black cage.

[17D1998 1]

what you should use is the z leader cage

[sitzlejd 0]

Never heard of it. I tried to search but couldn't find, but I'm not a shield fan anyways. From what I gathered it's pretty old, no?

[Roach 0]

There are so many cage/visor topics...but I'll continue in this one. In anticipation of maybe playing in a league and maybe a tournament this spring, I wore a cage last weekend for the first time in about 10 years. After some of the league stories I've read here, I'm not going to risk it with a halfer.

Anyways...It drove me freakin' nuts all game, but here's the thing...not sure why, but I played great. There were a couple plays cutting hard into the slot with the puck, something I normally don't do all that well. And, in the few shifts I played D (this was pickup) I played really well...

I may have to wear it a few more weeks...and if I continue to play well with it...screw how annoying it is...I may just have to keep it.

Radio, not to derail this thread, but I have the same experience when I wore shoulder pads for the first time last week. I play in a beer league and have gone without shoulders for as long as I can remember. Yet for the first time last week when I said, "What the heck" and ended up playing like a beast. I chalk it up to not having that last micro-second fear at the back of your head that something might happen to you because you're not wearing a cage, or in my case shoulder pads with the added protection.

[Too Old 1]

you could always salvage your existing rusty cage. i've done this before and it works great. ask your buddies who has access to a sandblaster. sandblast all of the old paint and rust off. use spray primer and paint - rustoleum works great. the process is cheap and easy to do.

There isn't much meat on those cage wires, throw out rusty cages.

Two weeks ago my kid came out the D door, took a few strides forward and caught a kid with his head down who was coming out of a scrum with puck in his feet. Not sure how it ended up head on head, my guy sort of coils and explodes into the hit and puck carrier must have dropped his head the instant before contact.....kids cage broke with wire entangled in my sons cage.

Luckily he didn't get poked in the eye, the other player ended up down with my son leaning over him shaking his head trying to free himself. I was told later the dad had taken cage from an old helmet and put it on his kids new helmet this season. Granted it might have been stressed if he pulled a small cage on a medium helmet, but I would say throw cages with corrosion in the garbage, that cage had rust at some weld marks our coach said.

i sweat a lot and play a lot. for those reasons, i don't think anyone's cage rusts as fast as mine. the rust just affects the very outer surface. sandblasting only removes the rust and paint - not the base metal. i've been doing this process for years and the difference between the strength of my cage when new compared to now is negligible. there is no significant difference between the wire size and weld sizes now compared to when i first purchased the cage. you must realize that any equipment, no matter how strong, has a chance of failing when all the wrong things happen at the same time - such as the hit you described. brand new cages have failed too you know. nothing wrong with sandblasting a little surface rust away.

ps: im an engineer in the nuclear industry with extremely stringent quality assurance requirements. when we overhaul obsolete equipment, we sandblast rusted parts, powdercoat them, and re-install them. this is industry-wide practice and noone (including the NRC) has a problem with it.

That doesn't appear right to me. Rust doesn't form on paint; it is the oxidation of the iron itself. Over time the oxides deteriorate the base material to nothing. The cages are painted to not only have a better visual appeal but also to stave off the oxidation when moisture and oxygen contact the base metal. Thus it's true that when you sandblast/media blast/etc to remove the rust you WILL be left with less material than you began with. This is a bit different than having a part with sufficient dimensional cross-section to allow sandblasting/powdercoating to refresh it. A thin wire cage wasn't designed to be repeatedly done like that. The reason I asked about refinishing is that the coatings I have access to are many times more durable than paint or powdercoat. They allow some flexing and are very resistant to corrosion. But if a cage were very rusted I'd caution you to do as others have said; buy a new one and don't take that risk.

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

you could always salvage your existing rusty cage. i've done this before and it works great. ask your buddies who has access to a sandblaster. sandblast all of the old paint and rust off. use spray primer and paint - rustoleum works great. the process is cheap and easy to do.

There isn't much meat on those cage wires, throw out rusty cages.

Two weeks ago my kid came out the D door, took a few strides forward and caught a kid with his head down who was coming out of a scrum with puck in his feet. Not sure how it ended up head on head, my guy sort of coils and explodes into the hit and puck carrier must have dropped his head the instant before contact.....kids cage broke with wire entangled in my sons cage.

Luckily he didn't get poked in the eye, the other player ended up down with my son leaning over him shaking his head trying to free himself. I was told later the dad had taken cage from an old helmet and put it on his kids new helmet this season. Granted it might have been stressed if he pulled a small cage on a medium helmet, but I would say throw cages with corrosion in the garbage, that cage had rust at some weld marks our coach said.

i sweat a lot and play a lot. for those reasons, i don't think anyone's cage rusts as fast as mine. the rust just affects the very outer surface. sandblasting only removes the rust and paint - not the base metal. i've been doing this process for years and the difference between the strength of my cage when new compared to now is negligible. there is no significant difference between the wire size and weld sizes now compared to when i first purchased the cage. you must realize that any equipment, no matter how strong, has a chance of failing when all the wrong things happen at the same time - such as the hit you described. brand new cages have failed too you know. nothing wrong with sandblasting a little surface rust away.

ps: im an engineer in the nuclear industry with extremely stringent quality assurance requirements. when we overhaul obsolete equipment, we sandblast rusted parts, powdercoat them, and re-install them. this is industry-wide practice and noone (including the NRC) has a problem with it.

You may be correct in your industry but in the eyes of HECC and CSA you have altered the state of the mask and therefore have deemed it unsafe or not certifed anymore.

If your ok with wearing it thats fine but do not tell others to do such a thing. Thats reckless and foolish!

Some dad takes his kids cage to the local auto body place they do as you say reinstall the cage he gets cross checked from behind and hits his face on the edge of the boards and the cage crushes into his face?" I read it on this board on the net the guy said it was safe?"

"Well son sorry but we cant save your eye!"

I trust you know what your doing and would not wear your cage unless it was safe BUT do not tell others it is....they do not have the equipment or your expert knowledge to get it done properly!

[oldtrainerguy28 478]

you could always salvage your existing rusty cage. i've done this before and it works great. ask your buddies who has access to a sandblaster. sandblast all of the old paint and rust off. use spray primer and paint - rustoleum works great. the process is cheap and easy to do.

There isn't much meat on those cage wires, throw out rusty cages.

Two weeks ago my kid came out the D door, took a few strides forward and caught a kid with his head down who was coming out of a scrum with puck in his feet. Not sure how it ended up head on head, my guy sort of coils and explodes into the hit and puck carrier must have dropped his head the instant before contact.....kids cage broke with wire entangled in my sons cage.

Luckily he didn't get poked in the eye, the other player ended up down with my son leaning over him shaking his head trying to free himself. I was told later the dad had taken cage from an old helmet and put it on his kids new helmet this season. Granted it might have been stressed if he pulled a small cage on a medium helmet, but I would say throw cages with corrosion in the garbage, that cage had rust at some weld marks our coach said.

i sweat a lot and play a lot. for those reasons, i don't think anyone's cage rusts as fast as mine. the rust just affects the very outer surface. sandblasting only removes the rust and paint - not the base metal. i've been doing this process for years and the difference between the strength of my cage when new compared to now is negligible. there is no significant difference between the wire size and weld sizes now compared to when i first purchased the cage. you must realize that any equipment, no matter how strong, has a chance of failing when all the wrong things happen at the same time - such as the hit you described. brand new cages have failed too you know. nothing wrong with sandblasting a little surface rust away.

ps: im an engineer in the nuclear industry with extremely stringent quality assurance requirements. when we overhaul obsolete equipment, we sandblast rusted parts, powdercoat them, and re-install them. this is industry-wide practice and noone (including the NRC) has a problem with it.

That doesn't appear right to me. Rust doesn't form on paint; it is the oxidation of the iron itself. Over time the oxides deteriorate the base material to nothing. The cages are painted to not only have a better visual appeal but also to stave off the oxidation when moisture and oxygen contact the base metal. Thus it's true that when you sandblast/media blast/etc to remove the rust you WILL be left with less material than you began with. This is a bit different than having a part with sufficient dimensional cross-section to allow sandblasting/powdercoating to refresh it. A thin wire cage wasn't designed to be repeatedly done like that. The reason I asked about refinishing is that the coatings I have access to are many times more durable than paint or powdercoat. They allow some flexing and are very resistant to corrosion. But if a cage were very rusted I'd caution you to do as others have said; buy a new one and don't take that risk.

Saw the perfect example of why people should let Pro Shops fix helmets.

I was coming out of our dressing room after practice and its on one of the 4 pads at the rink we are in. (rink 3 is our practice pad) but right after us is beer league hockey. I walk out and the goalie is on the ground...his cage actually broke off after a shot.

As I walk back towards my room they ask if I know how to fix it as the Ref and said I was the team trainer.

I looked at it and saw that the guy had used Tie straps plastic ones to hold the cage in.

I said well thats not a very smart idea.. That helmets not even safe to use......so the guys says so your not going to put more plastic ties on for us??

I am like no I wont be apart of you killing yourself.....thats just stupid......

He says fine thanks for your help....

*** and I was going to put proper screws and such to male it work but after the attitude I said screw that you guys fix it...****

so they go to the pro shop get some plastic ties and some duct tape and he goes back in to play......

Smart guy eh?

[Chadd 916]

Saw the perfect example of why people should let Pro Shops fix helmets.

I was coming out of our dressing room after practice and its on one of the 4 pads at the rink we are in. (rink 3 is our practice pad) but right after us is beer league hockey. I walk out and the goalie is on the ground...his cage actually broke off after a shot.

As I walk back towards my room they ask if I know how to fix it as the Ref and said I was the team trainer.

I looked at it and saw that the guy had used Tie straps plastic ones to hold the cage in.

I said well thats not a very smart idea.. That helmets not even safe to use......so the guys says so your not going to put more plastic ties on for us??

I am like no I wont be apart of you killing yourself.....thats just stupid......

He says fine thanks for your help....

*** and I was going to put proper screws and such to male it work but after the attitude I said screw that you guys fix it...****

so they go to the pro shop get some plastic ties and some duct tape and he goes back in to play......

Smart guy eh?

That's the one nice thing about the league here. As a ref I would have refused to allow him to participate and they would have backed me up on it.