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theflash0000

Instructional: DIY Skate Tongue Replacement

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Hey all,

I searched everywhere and could not find a good instructional post or video on how to install after-market skate tongues, so I decided to document my recent install and post it.

I replaced the stock tongues on my One95s with a set of tongues made by sanjosesharpeningprofiling (store link) on eBay. I have to say that the experience buying from them was pretty great. For $65 plus $10 for shipping, they took my custom instructions (I measured out the dimensions I wanted) combined with my skate boot size and sent me a very well-constructed made-to-order set. I didn't get anything too crazy, I just wanted and extra 4 inches of clearance over the boot (I really like having a long tongue tucked under my shinpads, it gives me the feeling of extra forward support). You can ask for all kinds of color options, even the color of the stitching.

Just a disclaimer--you probably void any warranty on the skates by doing this. You could always bring your skates and tongues to a reputable cobbler who can do this and do it well. This is for those who don't have access to a cobbler or are like me and prefer to do things yourself. Ok so here we go with the DIY...

Supplies:

-Seam ripper--like the one pictured here, but they come in many shapes and sizes.

-Glue--I went with Gorilla Glue.

-Speedy Stitcher/Sewing Awl with waxed thread--available here.

-Scissors

Removing old tongue:

Obviously, take the laces all the way out first. Also take out the footbeds so that the sewing awl doesn't damage them and you have more room to work with.

On the One95s, the tongue is sandwiched on the end of the plastic toe cap and double-stitched on:

photo1ys.th.jpg

Using the seam ripper and starting in the middle, slide the pointed end under each stitch to slice the thread. Once you get a bunch of stitches cut, you should be able to start pulling up the old tongue. I carefully used a flat-head screw-driver to lift it up. Then I was able to use the seam-ripper to cut the stitches from the bottom. I found that was much faster. Once all the stitches are cut, you'll need peel away the felt on the underside of the cap, which is bonded with glue. Mine came off relatively cleanly with just a little pulling.

This is what the cap looks like without the old tongue:

photo3ftx.th.jpg

Notice the 1/2" or so part of the plastic toe-cap that the tongue was sewn into. That's what I would be sewing the new tongue onto.

Installing the new tongue:

Sorry, I wish I had taken a picture of the tongues themselves before I installed them to show the construction at the base. Basically, you have a flap of leather and a flap of felt to sandwich the base of the skate boot. The goal is to sew through both layers. So leather first, then the plastic toe-cap, then the felt.

The first step is to glue the base of the tongue into place. I used a pretty light bead of Gorilla Glue and got a nice hold. The purpose of this is not only to reinforce the bond with the boot, but also to hold the tongue in place so that you can sew it on.

Here's what it looks like just glued in place:

photo4jy.th.jpg

Placement of the tongue itself is up to you. I spent a lot of time messing around with how I wanted the tongue to sit on my foot and that's how I figured out how to place the tongue on the boot.

The next step is sewing across the base of the tongue. ETA: I suggest waiting for the glue to dry before stitching. I didn't think about this on the first skate and the glue got on the sewing needle and made it harder to work with.

The Speedy Stitcher sewing awl is an awesome DIY tool. Basically it works by passing the heavy duty thread through the material, then you push each stitch through and loop the thread back, passing the bottom stitch through the loop. Its difficult to explain in words, so you're better off watching this

. I watched this exactly one time and felt like an expert with the thing.

Starting at one corner, begin stitching across the base of the tongue, making sure to go through all three layers (leather, plastic, felt). BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL with you hand inside the skate. You can really hurt yourself if you stab through the material into your hand.

Here's what it looks like with a few stitches in place:

photo7pe.th.jpg

Continue across the entire base of the tongue. I only needed about 12 stitches and it held very solidly in place. As the YouTube video shows you, end your stitch with a square not (inside the skate). If you're paranoid, you could go back over and do a second row of stitches.

Here's my finished base. Not the most evenly-spaced stitches ever, but they are very solid. This tongue is not going anywhere:

photo8gg.th.jpg

If you want, you can trim the excess material. I left mine on and actually put a little more Gorilla Glue just to seal it all up.

Now the finished product, laces back on:

photo9ax.th.jpg

Again, your mileage may vary. Other skates are constructed differently and may require a somewhat different procedure. This took about 30 minutes per skate and I am extremely happy with the results. Hope this helps someone out there get a good custom tongue setup on their skates. Good luck!

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Looks awesome!! Was it hard to work the speedy stitcher through all three layers?

Thanks! No, the only issue was (and I should probably put this up in the first post) that I did not wait for the Gorilla Glue to dry on the first skate before I started sewing. So the glue got on the sewing needle and made it a bit harder to work with.

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Did you go through the existing toe cap holes, or just make new ones with the awl?

Good question--because I glued the leather down first I couldnt tell one way or the other. Probably a bit of both.

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Good question--because I glued the leather down first I couldnt tell one way or the other. Probably a bit of both.

I did mine the same way except I put the leather under the toe cap...the holes were visible that way :)

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that looks nice, is there a left and right tongue? or they are interchangeable?

in this thread they say left and right, but to me it looks like there no difference http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php?/topic/51893-felt-tongue-simple-question/

Edit : my question was answered, makes no difference so i do not know why they claim theres a left and right in that thread.

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If I can ask a potential stupid question...with the good quality of skates made today...is it worth going through this process or shouldn't you just get new skates?

Often I find the boot gets soft far before the tongue wears out, but maybe that's just me.

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Well, I have 3 pairs of skates that could use new tongues with the rest of em being fine....problem is I can't grab a hold of them here in Europe :(

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If I can ask a potential stupid question...with the good quality of skates made today...is it worth going through this process or shouldn't you just get new skates?

Often I find the boot gets soft far before the tongue wears out, but maybe that's just me.

Not a dumb question. I think tongue replacement comes down to either buying a low to mid level skate which tend to have thin or uncomfortable tongues or you want something not offered stock. The OP replaced his tongues because he wanted the extra 4 inches above his boot. I don't know of any stock tongue that goes that high. Of course you have the exceptions where I've seen guys rip their tongues out because the stitching broke down before they wanted to replace the skates. Rare, sure, but it happens.

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I've replaced a couple of tongues due to them wearing out (boots were fine in both cases) and needing additional thickness to address volume issues. Would I bother with mid level skates or lower? Probably not. No reason not to do it in a higher end boot if needed/wanted as it is more cost effective than buying a new skate.

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Just about to order a speedy sticher so i can do this...

Is the needle that comes with the speedy stitcher the right size to fit through the holes already in the toebox (graf 705's), or shall i get the fine needle and thread as well?

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It may come with a smaller needle- mine did. Check the handle. Although, mine may be a different brand. Either way, the needle has a spear point and will go right through the cap with a little pressure. You can enlage the holes with small drill bit if you want as well.

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Thanks for the help guy's, quickly swopped the tongues on my graf's to some old bauer ones i had lying around until my nash tongues arrive, will do a video when they do...

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I also used this guide and it was perfect. For those of you in Toronto area Lee Valley carries the sticher for 13.50. The hardest part is getting the thread through the loop under the tongue. My hands were too big but a pair of pliers or in my case my wife's smaller hands worked fine. Took maybe an hour to do both skates. I did not do as many stitches as the OP . I probably did about 8 across.

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