Quality composite for under $60?

[krejcitime 0]

Hello all. First time post here.

I am starting in a women's rec league this coming Sunday. It'll be my first time playing hockey in five years (last played for my high school's girls team) and I am in the market for a new stick and it's the final item I need before I am set to go. The selection out there has changed a lot even in five years' time, so I need some help. I definitely like the feel and weight of composites to wood, but unfortunately, I don't have a load of money to be spending right now. I want something durable, something that will last, but something that won't break the bank or also put me in tears if it does snap.

I have no preference in terms of brands, etc. From trying out several sticks at different stores in the last two weeks (and sometimes it's hard in some stores when their stock of leftie sticks is weak), I know I like a good amount of flex and I had a fondess for patterns like those for Draper and Datsyuk. But I'm pretty flexible. I just want a decent stick. I have a good number of tools available to make adjustments if need be, too.

What's a good stick to start with here?

Thanks!

[B&W 0]

i personally would start with a decent wood stick and save your money. Hockey Monkey has decent sticks right now on clearance, but I think it's a waste of money to buy a 60 dollar OPS. I've been broke for the past couple of months and have had to use sherwood feather lites, while I get chirped a lot, i'm actually getting some of the same results out of it after a couple of months that I would with my old vapour. It's annoying using a wood stick. But i would stick with it a while and save your money.

[ponder 0]

i personally would start with a decent wood stick and save your money. Hockey Monkey has decent sticks right now on clearance, but I think it's a waste of money to buy a 60 dollar OPS. I've been broke for the past couple of months and have had to use sherwood feather lites, while I get chirped a lot, i'm actually getting some of the same results out of it after a couple of months that I would with my old vapour. It's annoying using a wood stick. But i would stick with it a while and save your money.

If you're reasonably hard on your sticks you'll be spending a lot more money on Sherwood 5030s than you will on a decent low-end composite - whenever I use wood sticks I go through them crazy fast (wear down the blades real fast, or just straight up snap them). Some wood sticks are decently durable, but 5030s I find to be good for 5-10 skates at most. Considering you can get an OK low end composite like a Bauer one30 for about twice the price of a 5030 I think you'll be saving money in the long run. I actually slightly prefer the performance of a 5030 to a cheapo composite (the 5030 is heavier, but I prefer the feel and flex), but cost wise you'd be better off with a composite IMO.

[Stoop 1]

I have a friend who had similar criteria in looking for a stick, and just picked up a closeout Easton ST and loves it. There seem to be plenty around on sale. He got his new at a PIAS.

Or if you're looking for an intermediate, TH has them:

http://www.totalhock...=2420&div_id=31

Looks like they have senior lefties also.

[Vet88 674]

If you know the flex and curve you want then have a look on eBay. There are plenty of good quality sticks going for the $60 - $80 mark, in particular I'd suggest Easton SE16's however you do need to be patient when looking for sticks this way as sometimes it can take a few weeks before you find something you want. After you break the blade (which will happen with any stick you buy) you can then turn it into an excellent two piece and buy good quality heads (SE16's off eBay) for around $30 - $35. There are plenty of threads on this forum showing how you turn your broken one piece into a two piece.

[krejcitime 0]

Thank you all! This has been super helpful.

I am heading to my "new" local hockey shop (from what I've read they've got a good selection of everything) tomorrow morning and I am going to test out the Sherwood 5030, Bauer one30 and if they happen to have any Easton Synergy ST or SE16's in stock, those too. They are each clearly very different and definitely I am going to think about whether a couple $30 5030's are what I want, or one composite OPS for $60. Decisions, decisions. We shall see.

[dsjunior1388 81]

If you're reasonably hard on your sticks you'll be spending a lot more money on Sherwood 5030s than you will on a decent low-end composite - whenever I use wood sticks I go through them crazy fast (wear down the blades real fast, or just straight up snap them). Some wood sticks are decently durable, but 5030s I find to be good for 5-10 skates at most. Considering you can get an OK low end composite like a Bauer one30 for about twice the price of a 5030 I think you'll be saving money in the long run. I actually slightly prefer the performance of a 5030 to a cheapo composite (the 5030 is heavier, but I prefer the feel and flex), but cost wise you'd be better off with a composite IMO.

Yeah but a wood stick will perform better than most new $60 composites, particularly the Reebok 4k/5k or the Easton S3. I had a roommate buy the S3, it was absolute junk. Awful balance, terrible feel, heavier than most woods sticks. On the other side of that coin, the SE6 runs about $75-85 and is a seriously undervalued stick, it is comparable with $100 sticks like the Bauer X:40.

I don't know where $60 SE16s are being found but I would love to find that deal.

[Chadd 916]

Yeah but a wood stick will perform better than most new $60 composites...

Until the blade gets soft and the shaft breaks down. I save a lot of money, and get better performance, by not using wood anymore.

[s4gobabygo 0]

i'm also with the cheap ops argument. i do love a good wood stick, but the blades always go soft and flexy for me in 10 skates or less. on the other hand, i have a crappy vapor VI (i think) from like 5 years ago, and it's gone through absurd abuse, including some street hockey, a large chip in the toe, and a bunch of deep cuts in the hosel, but it still shoots a slapper straight and true. it's major flaw is its weight, which is very heavy for an OPS, but it's still a fair margin lighter than my 5030s. obviously i'd rather use a nicer OPS, but if we're talking value, i can't think of anything that beats that $80 OPS!

[TeamHonda401 54]

Any sub $70 ops will be heavy because they use more fiberglass in the construction. More fiberglass = more weight but more durability. A Warrior Bentley weighs over 500 grams, but is in my opinion the most durable stick out there. You could probably get last years model for around 60-70 bucks.

[HockeySavants 5]

Decent for the money:

Reebok 4k, Bauer X:Lite, X:30 sticks are all found under 60.00

But if you want the best deal on a stick, check out HockeyTron, they are offering free shipping on orders over $30, which HockeyMonkey would have you spend much more on shipping.

Their basic sticks are 49.99, and they have a 20% coupon deal going.

*No I don't work for HockeyTron*

[MilleniumFalcon 5]

used shaft + new blade

[mnwild9 0]

I just bought this stick the other day well worth the price and they ship really fast

http://www.hockeyoutlet.com/HOprodinfo.php?category=CompositeHockeySticks&productSKU=HS4KSr&producttitle=Reebok%204K%20SickKick%20III%20Composite%20One-Piece%20Hockey%20Stick%20Senior&manufacturer=Reebok#1

[Wallzy41 9]

I have a 2009 Easton S3, and if you're okay with using the "standard" flex it's an awesome stick. I'm 5'9 190 and it has gone through its' fair share of abuse.

[Hooah4 12]

Have to face it..hockey can be an expensive sport. Ice fees never seem to go down only up. Us dads w/mortgages, car payments, soon to be college tuition, etc..have to save a $ here and there. Some of us don't live in hockey hotbeds or are close to pro/minor arenas, etc..where better stuff can be had.

A low level league or less serious player may be able to get a bit more out of an Easton ST or last year's closeout. IMO they will be better served by using a 4k, Bentley, etc..as they will last much longer at the weight of a wood stick with a fairly decent price point. To each their own but I feel better using a low level stick that won't snap as easy with the hackers in the men's league around here.

[dsjunior1388 81]

Until the blade gets soft and the shaft breaks down. I save a lot of money, and get better performance, by not using wood anymore.

i'm also with the cheap ops argument. i do love a good wood stick, but the blades always go soft and flexy for me in 10 skates or less. on the other hand, i have a crappy vapor VI (i think) from like 5 years ago, and it's gone through absurd abuse, including some street hockey, a large chip in the toe, and a bunch of deep cuts in the hosel, but it still shoots a slapper straight and true. it's major flaw is its weight, which is very heavy for an OPS, but it's still a fair margin lighter than my 5030s. obviously i'd rather use a nicer OPS, but if we're talking value, i can't think of anything that beats that $80 OPS!

Thats for experienced hockey players with a developed shot. When I started out, blades never went soft on me, and the feel was far more forgiving, which was great when I was trying to learn to handle the puck

[sitzlejd 0]

The Inno sticks on Hockey Monkey are the best deal out there in my opinion. They are repaints of higher level sticks and for the money I don't think there's anything close. I have two Inno Maniacs and they've held up very nicely and are pretty light too. I can't remember exactly what they are repaints of, but I think it's a Warrior Dolomite??? They're $70 each right now on HM, but if you buy 3 they are $60 each PLUS you get a fourth one free. That works out to $45 each for a higher end Warrior stick. Unbeatable IMO.

http://www.hockeymonkey.com/inno-sr-sticks.html

[xrickyb86x 1]

Also, if you are smaller you might want to look into intermediate sticks on closeout. Usually not to hard to find. I had two girls on my old team with smaller hands and body size and preferred the reduced weight and smaller shaft dimensions.

[Chadd 916]

Thats for experienced hockey players with a developed shot. When I started out, blades never went soft on me, and the feel was far more forgiving, which was great when I was trying to learn to handle the puck

experience doesn't have anything to do with water soaking into the blade. Tape gets wet, moisture gets into the wood. The only way experience is a factor is that you need it to realize that something is actually wrong.