Wood blades tend to split and shred

[DoubleT96 0]

When I use wood blades, the bottom tends to split and shred apart...generally in a short amount of time from the time a start playing with it. Does anyone else have this problem? If so, how much blade life do you guys generally get out of the blade before you have to replace it ? The shredding is basically uniform from the tip of the blade to the heel, so I don't think its a lie issue...I'm pretty much a 5-4.5.

Also, does anyone have any ideas on how to prevent the splitting or delay the splitting so you can get a little bit more life out of the blade. I understand a composite blade will solve the problem but I prefer the feel of the wood blades and the price is plus too. Also, i'm not a big fan of those hybrid blades...maybe its just me.

Any suggestions, thoughts would be great.

[rbue 0]

Well its pretty much the nature of the wooden blades that they won't last too long. If you want to try to get a longer life out of them try taping the entire blade from heal to toe, or even before taping just put a piece of tape along the bottom covering the entire blade at the bottom and then tape the blade anyway you like. I am usual able to keep my blades for a good 10-15 ice times on average, but i am extremely light on my blades compared to most people using wooden blades. Hope this kind of helps

[chippa13 1844]

When I used wood blades I would put a strip of tape along the bottom of the blade before I taped the blade. That helped protect the bottom a little. You might want to see if you're taking too much ice when shooting, as that could prematurely wreck the bottom of the blade. Also, removing wet tape after games will help to extent the life of wood blades.

[mack 44]

The worst ones ever would be the Christians because they soak up water and break down. Most of the better woods I've used (Easton pro returns; custom Nikes/Bauers) tend to get little fractures in the coating and then get worse from there. Only thing I've found that helps is re-taping after each session to assure that you keep as much moisture from getting in there as possible.

[LkptTiger 1]

You're not going to get much time out of a woodie no matter what you do. Right now I'm going through one of my "experimentation" periods trying to find something I like (fooling around with the hollow/radius of my T'Blade runners, OPS; shaft/comp. blade combo; shaft/wood blade combo...etc. - only at practices, obviously) and I haven't been able to make any wood blade last longer than a little over a week. If they don't break in the first two or three practices, they just get too damn soft.

[Chadd 916]

Electrical tape along the bottom and remove the cloth tape as soon as you are done skating.

[DoubleT96 0]

Electrical tape along the bottom and remove the cloth tape as soon as you are done skating.

....E-Tape, Havn't tried that...but an excellent one!

[Tyler12 0]

Easy, go to an automotivestore, and buy somerubberized spray in bedliner. its like 6-8 bucksa can CDN. tape off every thing but the first inch of the blade, and give it a thin coat. works great.

[tokes 0]

The rubberized stuff still doesn't protect it that well. I like the easton hybrid carbon blades. Price is reasonable, feel is ok, last much longer than wood.

[CaseyJones_86 0]

once that happened and I was too lazy to buy another stick, so I stuck some wood glue in the split sections and clamped it overnight. it actually worked pretty good for a while.

[DoubleT96 0]

I tried the wood glue/clamp method also. Worked for an extra game or so....but it was a start

[Reaper 0]

I've started to put a 3/4 inch stripe of Protectoe along the top and bottom of all my wood blades in addition to the 1 inch leading coating on the toe of the blade.

I spread it on very thin and allow it to dry completely before taping. Since I paint all my blades black it doesn't stand out too much.

I run a strip of hockey tape along the top and bottom of each blade before taping it from heel to toe using 3/4 inch black hockey tape.

I wax my blades after taping and rub the wax into the tape while wearing latex gloves after I've warmed it up with my heat gun.

This pretty much seals up my blades except for the hosel and helps keep them from getting waterlogged or split for a while.

In short, the Protectoe and strips of tape keep the wear down and the wax keeps the water out.

[cupcrazy16 0]

I go with a strip of tape along the bottom before I tape the whole stick. Waxing (candle wax or w/e) the blade after taping helps prolong the life of the stick, probably easier than getting the rubber stuff. But regardless, wood blades are going to split sooner than later.

[fatwabbit 93]

epoxy a layer on the bottom of the blade... thickness of the layer should be less than a 0.25" thick to start off with... increase the thickness if you require.

[Dan_The_Man_16 0]

Handymans secret weapon: DUCT TAPE. Put a stip along the bottom, and your good to go.

[mickz 107]

I heard on this forum that soaking a new wood stick in salt water overnight and then drying it the next day will make it last longer. I did it to two of my sticks and i really see no difference, but maybe that's just me.

[JR Boucicaut 3804]

The worst ones ever would be the Christians because they soak up water and break down. Most of the better woods I've used (Easton pro returns; custom Nikes/Bauers) tend to get little fractures in the coating and then get worse from there. Only thing I've found that helps is re-taping after each session to assure that you keep as much moisture from getting in there as possible.

My TPS (same as custom Easton and BNH) do that, even with the extra wrap. I need to order a new batch. I'm gonna ask for them to add more wrap.

[mack 44]

Tell me how that turns out because BNH ones feel thick as is and I don't think I'd like more thickness tabbed on there.

[JR Boucicaut 3804]

I was wondering if I can get them thinner but they probably won't last as long.