Need a new stick, what to do?

[smu 29]

2 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

While I would love a QRL, based on your post I assume you are an adult with a job. I am not either. Fifty dollars really is my ceiling on this, which was the point of going to MSH to see where the best deal could be found. Thank you for the advice.

I understand completely, yes I am an adult and I don't work. You are taking the advice from someone who is in retirement!

If you are not taking slapshots and not having a problem with the ability to take a hard pass like I was there is some good advice on YouTube from Jeremy Rupke (sp?) on "How to Hockey" I think. He goes through several sticks, but uses the under $100 and range. If you are like me the intermediate won't work, as you say the instant you take 5 or 6" off it you can't bend it. I have many people laugh at me with a junior stick, but it's that or I have to use a piece of lumber.

My 2 recent sticks both are 40 flex (all are different from the manufacturers) . #1 - Graf G55 40 flex on sale at way under $100 about 2 years ago and the Warrior Covert QR3, 40 flex ;last year on sale. I would start looking at last year's line of sticks that are on sale.

Forget what I bought, I did that for one reason and that was I felt I had a hard time taking a hard pass otherwise both of the above sticks did me well. I was stupid to buy the Warrior I just did not know at the time that more carbon fiber that is in it the better to take a pass (but more prone to breakage)!

You are looking for something that you can put a big bend in it on the carpet at the store. Stay away from the Bauer they seem to be the more difficult to flex. I don't understand how a small person can use these sticks, even the top of the line Nexus or whatever their best stick is this year. I could just slightly get these to flex on the mat!

If you can't bend the stick a fair amount (you know this issue) you are going to find it hard to load the stick on the ice because there is barely any resistance when you attempt to shoot on ice. As far as patterns (blades) that is personal what someone likes someone else might not. I like a good curve and a rounded toe as it is better for dangles. If the stick has an open face you will be better roofing the puck, but when I first went this route I was putting close in shots right over the net.  I would suggest no open face if you are not having a problem with your close in shots. If you want to try it go with a mild one. For me again, I prefer to have a mid or toe curve to play with the puck - toe drags.

I can't suggest too much on this issue as I said it is a personal thing. I just bought a Yakupov pattern as it had that slight open face with a nice curve, but I have yet to try it out although it is much like my last 2 sticks.

Good luck - Alan

 

[Jamarquan 201]

5 hours ago, smu said:

I understand completely, yes I am an adult and I don't work. You are taking the advice from someone who is in retirement!

If you are not taking slapshots and not having a problem with the ability to take a hard pass like I was there is some good advice on YouTube from Jeremy Rupke (sp?) on "How to Hockey" I think. He goes through several sticks, but uses the under $100 and range. If you are like me the intermediate won't work, as you say the instant you take 5 or 6" off it you can't bend it. I have many people laugh at me with a junior stick, but it's that or I have to use a piece of lumber.

My 2 recent sticks both are 40 flex (all are different from the manufacturers) . #1 - Graf G55 40 flex on sale at way under $100 about 2 years ago and the Warrior Covert QR3, 40 flex ;last year on sale. I would start looking at last year's line of sticks that are on sale.

Forget what I bought, I did that for one reason and that was I felt I had a hard time taking a hard pass otherwise both of the above sticks did me well. I was stupid to buy the Warrior I just did not know at the time that more carbon fiber that is in it the better to take a pass (but more prone to breakage)!

You are looking for something that you can put a big bend in it on the carpet at the store. Stay away from the Bauer they seem to be the more difficult to flex. I don't understand how a small person can use these sticks, even the top of the line Nexus or whatever their best stick is this year. I could just slightly get these to flex on the mat!

If you can't bend the stick a fair amount (you know this issue) you are going to find it hard to load the stick on the ice because there is barely any resistance when you attempt to shoot on ice. As far as patterns (blades) that is personal what someone likes someone else might not. I like a good curve and a rounded toe as it is better for dangles. If the stick has an open face you will be better roofing the puck, but when I first went this route I was putting close in shots right over the net.  I would suggest no open face if you are not having a problem with your close in shots. If you want to try it go with a mild one. For me again, I prefer to have a mid or toe curve to play with the puck - toe drags.

I can't suggest too much on this issue as I said it is a personal thing. I just bought a Yakupov pattern as it had that slight open face with a nice curve, but I have yet to try it out although it is much like my last 2 sticks.

Good luck - Alan

 

Therein lies the rub. You and I are very much different players, and therefore need different types of sticks. I, however, have never broken a stick, so durability is no issue, but flex is very difficult for me, so maybe it's time to retire my old Bauer that I've had for about a year. 

With regards to curves, ideally something in between the PM9 and P92, because neither really works for me, so the E36 / P88 or the E28 / PP26 are my only options. I already have a difficult time putting velocity on my shots, as well as getting lift on them, so maybe the E28 isn't a bad idea because that's what the curve is supposed to be.

EDIT: I've decided to go for either the Sherwood T35, in PP26 because I trust their cheaper offerings (I had a 30 dollar Rekker once and it was pretty great), and the Easton Stealth C5.0 in E28 or E36 

[smu 29]

 

14 minutes ago, Jamarquan said:

Therein lies the rub. You and I are very much different players, and therefore need different types of sticks. I, however, have never broken a stick, so durability is no issue, but flex is very difficult for me, so maybe it's time to retire my old Bauer that I've had for about a year.

Jamarquan,

I think we are alike in that we want to be able to flex the stick. As I have said I have been experimenting for nearly 20 years trying to get an Adult stick down to my flex, then Intermediate then to the Junior. I was able to but my new stick with difficulty, but I could have gotten by with my other 2 sticks as the flex was there.

I see you experienced the Bauer, I'll bet it was stiff no matter what flex you had!

If you can buy a stick like was suggested by a previous post for your price range make sure you have hands on feel of it. Buy nothing you have to order unless you have also tyried it in the LHS.

 

 

[specs78 33]

Not trying to rain on your parade, but I use a pp26 EK15 and I see/feel no difference at all from the p91 curve and the Warrior W03 (I have both). When I put the sticks together they all look identical. If you think those curves are "unplayable" I think you are going to struggle with the PP26.

 

[Jamarquan 201]

16 hours ago, specs78 said:

Not trying to rain on your parade, but I use a pp26 EK15 and I see/feel no difference at all from the p91 curve and the Warrior W03 (I have both). When I put the sticks together they all look identical. If you think those curves are "unplayable" I think you are going to struggle with the PP26.

 

Welp, that's no good. E36 or E28 then.

[specs78 33]

Sorry, I messed up. I meant the P92, not the p91. But I looked again last night and the PP26 and W03 curves looked exactly the same to me. If there is a difference, I can't tell. Good luck with your search.

[tpedersen3118 58]

$50, your choice of 45 or 50 flex. P88 is comparable to the E36.

 

http://www.icewarehouse.com/Bauer_Vapor_X700_Grip_Hockey_Sticks_Jr_/descpage-X70GJ.html

[jdvn 8]

4 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

On 2016-11-01 at 5:29 AM, Jamarquan said:

Therein lies the rub. You and I are very much different players, and therefore need different types of sticks. I, however, have never broken a stick, so durability is no issue, but flex is very difficult for me, so maybe it's time to retire my old Bauer that I've had for about a year. 

With regards to curves, ideally something in between the PM9 and P92, because neither really works for me, so the E36 / P88 or the E28 / PP26 are my only options. I already have a difficult time putting velocity on my shots, as well as getting lift on them, so maybe the E28 isn't a bad idea because that's what the curve is supposed to be.

EDIT: I've decided to go for either the Sherwood T35, in PP26 because I trust their cheaper offerings (I had a 30 dollar Rekker once and it was pretty great), and the Easton Stealth C5.0 in E28 or E36 

I don't see how the E28 pattern would work for you if the P92 didn't. You really need to switch up the way you shoot when using the E28 pattern.

You have trouble with velocity and loft? IMHO, I think you need to work on your shooting technique before anything else. 

 

[Jamarquan 201]

18 minutes ago, jdvn said:

I don't see how the E28 pattern would work for you if the P92 didn't. You really need to switch up the way you shoot when using the E28 pattern.

You have trouble with velocity and loft? IMHO, I think you need to work on your shooting technique before anything else. 

 

I can get more velocity when I use a more mild curve, say the PM9. The I just brutally flub every shot with the W03, and my P46 is a mix bag. Also, what is so different with the E28 that requires a drastic technique change?

[tpedersen3118 58]

On October 31, 2016 at 3:25 PM, puckpilot said:

Hockey Monkey has a Warrior QR4 on sale for $44.98 in the Lupul curve, which I believe is equal to the PM9. It's not the QRL but not a bad second choice IMHO.

http://www.hockeymonkey.com/equipment/hockey-sticks-shafts-blades/sticks-all-composite/hockey-sticks-junior/warrior-hockey-stick-qr4-gr-jr.html

There are lots of other sticks on sale on this site for your price range. 

here you go

 

 

 

[Jamarquan 201]

14 minutes ago, tpedersen3118 said:

here you go

 

 

 

Thanks. Very different than the way I shoot.

[smu 29]

6 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

I can get more velocity when I use a more mild curve, say the PM9. The I just brutally flub every shot with the W03, and my P46 is a mix bag. Also, what is so different with the E28 that requires a drastic technique change?

 

Jamarquan,

Don't forget, "don't buy until you try" at least the same stick for flex or you maybe sorry you bought it.

Alan

[specs78 33]

Personally, I think you would be better served by picking a very standard curve and learning how to shoot with it. You are looking for very specific sizes and flexes, and if you add a less common curve, you are going to be struggling to find sticks that work. IMHO, it sounds like your technique needs refinement more than finding the magic curve.

 

[JoeyJ0506 192]

23 hours ago, jdvn said:

You have trouble with velocity and loft? IMHO, I think you need to work on your shooting technique before anything else. 

Sounds about right.

[tpedersen3118 58]

17 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

Thanks. Very different than the way I shoot.

How is it "very different"?

you said you are 5'4" 120lbs? If you don't mind me asking, how old are you? The reason I ask is that if you are young and still developing as a player you may benefit from learning to shoot one curve and developing your shot around that verses struggling to find a curve that matches the way you currently shoot. Make sense?

[Jamarquan 201]

4 hours ago, tpedersen3118 said:

How is it "very different"?

you said you are 5'4" 120lbs? If you don't mind me asking, how old are you? The reason I ask is that if you are young and still developing as a player you may benefit from learning to shoot one curve and developing your shot around that verses struggling to find a curve that matches the way you currently shoot. Make sense?

I'll be 15 tomorrow, and I shoot by having the puck move from heel to toe, more 'traditional' if you will.

[smu 29]

2 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

I'll be 15 tomorrow, and I shoot by having the puck move from heel to toe, more 'traditional' if you will.

Happy Birthday tomorrow1

Alan

[Jamarquan 201]

12 minutes ago, smu said:

Happy Birthday tomorrow1

Alan

Thanks, I'll get to go see a third of the Barclays Center tomorrow, because Brett Yomark is just the best.

[Jamarquan 201]

Hello everyone, small update. 

I went to my LHS earlier to sharpen my skates, got to mess around with some sticks. The 40 flex QR5 and 45 flex Easton Stealth / Synergy both come to my chin / collarbone off skates, and all flexed easily. Since I was looking within these three lines of sticks anyway (QR5 / 4, Stealth C3.0 / 5.0, Synergy 40 / 60), are these lengths good or should I put a plug in them / look at a flex up because they are longer?

[puckpilot 312]

Height of stick has a lot to do with preference. I'm 5'5 and I use a 52" stick, which comes to about an inch or so below my chin when I'm on skates. That's the shortest I feel comfortable with. Though I've tried using 51" sticks, that length isn't to my liking. Warrior juniors are 50" even though most sites list them as 51"  You're 5'4" right? Putting a 1 or 2 inch plug IMHO won't affect flex too much.

I base this on the markings on my  junior CCM Ribcore. It says every inch I cut from that stick adds 1 flex to it, so I've been using that as a ballpark guide, even thought flex is different across brands.

[SCATMAN 33]

I've had a read through your posts and think you should go with the P88. If you flubbed your shots all the time with the P92 then you will probably do the same with P28/E28's until you improve your technique. The P92 and P28 are both great curves. 

I personally like the P88 over the E36 because I like the P88's higher lie and wider toe. 

[Jamarquan 201]

Just now, SCATMAN said:

I've had a read through your posts and think you should go with the P88. If you flubbed your shots all the time with the P92 then you will probably do the same with P28/E28's until you improve your technique. The P92 and P28 are both great curves. 

I personally like the P88 over the E36 because I like the P88's higher lie and wider toe. 

I have no qualms with the P88, but an earlier post in this thread said that Bauer sticks are hard to flex, which I would agree with. What about the Warrior W88? 

[smu 29]

6 hours ago, puckpilot said:

Height of stick has a lot to do with preference. I'm 5'5 and I use a 52" stick, which comes to about an inch or so below my chin when I'm on skates. That's the shortest I feel comfortable with. Though I've tried using 51" sticks, that length isn't to my liking. Warrior juniors are 50" even though most sites list them as 51"  You're 5'4" right? Putting a 1 or 2 inch plug IMHO won't affect flex too much.

I base this on the markings on my  junior CCM Ribcore. It says every inch I cut from that stick adds 1 flex to it, so I've been using that as a ballpark guide, even thought flex is different across brands.

I guess I don't know about Ribcore, but are you sure it's 1 flex unit for every 1"?

This sounds low, but you have the stick! I have seen stats where for every inch you could have a 3 to 5 flex change. 

With regards to to length I have kept mine uncut, but don't need a plug as it makes the stick too long for me as I like to play with the puck close to me feet. I am not on my skates or near my gear, but I am sure the top of the stick is below my chin. If it wasn't so expensive I would cut off a bit even when I am 5'5"! You can really do some nice stickhandling with a short stick. There phots on the net where it shows some of the greatest players with very short sticks although you also will see the opposite. 2 or 3 years ago I was cutting short, but then with my newer sticks I stuck with the stock size.

I will get back with just how short I had mine and this gave me some great moves, especially going in on a breakaway playing with the puck right in front of you, I had more options on the goalie and it through them off. This can't be done with a longer stick as it will not allow the hands and but end to be directly on front of you because of the length.

on an old stick you should try to cut off another 2 inches or so and see your handling improve, to the detriment of your reach, but there are always trade offs. On defense you may need a but inserted to give the poke check ability.

Talk later - Alan

[SCATMAN 33]

2 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

I have no qualms with the P88, but an earlier post in this thread said that Bauer sticks are hard to flex, which I would agree with. What about the Warrior W88? 

The W88 to what I know has a really low lie (4 or 5) where as the P88 is a 6. Otherwise they are the same. If you get low when you skate and/or you like or want to try a longer stick then that could be a good choice for you.

Also, I'm not sure if I agree about Bauer sticks being harder to flex. But different kick point sticks feeling like they flex differently? Sure. End of the day though, if the sticks hard to flex then you can work on your strength a bit and then its no problem. Peanut butter sandwiches, some milk and 50-100 pushups a day for a few weeks would sort that out pretty quickly ;) - The advantage of youth! 

[SCATMAN 33]

2 hours ago, Jamarquan said:

I have no qualms with the P88, but an earlier post in this thread said that Bauer sticks are hard to flex, which I would agree with. What about the Warrior W88? 

I know you said you had a $50 budget but if you can stretch it to $60 you have a lot more options and many better sticks choices IMO. You should check out the True sticks and the Bauer Nexus range - http://www.hockeymonkey.com/equipment/hockey-sticks-shafts-blades/sticks-all-composite/hockey-sticks-junior/price/0-61.html