Curve Frustration - Need Recommendations

[2nhockey 21]

As I continue to play and improve I am starting to evaluate my gear more critically. I’m working on my sticks now. Last season I used a True TC4 curve and for the most part it was ok.  It did most things ok for me except sauce. Whenever I’m trying to sauce the puck would flutter and frequently would bounce, rendering my passes useless. So I recently spent some time with an Easton E36 curve and I didn’t like it. I couldn’t do anything well except puck handle. I sure couldn’t lift the puck without thinking about it. So last couple of weeks I have been trying a CCM P19 curve and it does everything real well for me. It sauces great, I can backhand well, and it shoots great for me. Of course I now know P19’s don’t exist any more. 

So, what curve for me? Somebody recommended a Warrior Pacioretty curve. Not a super common curve but if I can find one... does anybody else have a curve recommendation? A P30 looks kind of close to what I’m after (P19). Can anyone confirm?

thanks for any help!

[Buzz_LightBeer 969]

CCM makes no less than 4 patterns similar to the P19, so you shouldn’t have much trouble finding a replacement. 

 

Otherwise you make like a Bauer P14 or P106 to experiment with

[Cavs019 708]

+1 on the Bauer P14

P19 is also readily available in pro stock form. 

[puckpilot 312]

Imho if you were meh on the tc4, you probably shouldn't go for a p30. It's another toe curve. If you didn't liked the E38, the other brand equivalent is th p88, so avoid that. According to the chart found here. https://hfboards.mandatory.com/threads/sticks-buying-guide-and-advice-part-3.2515143/

The p92 curve is probably what you want. It's a jack of all trades.

But one thing you should also consider is lie. If you're used to one specific lie and try using another, it can throw you off a whole lot until you adjust regardless of curve. 

[caveman27 208]

13 hours ago, 2nhockey said:

As I continue to play and improve I am starting to evaluate my gear more critically. I’m working on my sticks now. Last season I used a True TC4 curve and for the most part it was ok.  It did most things ok for me except sauce. Whenever I’m trying to sauce the puck would flutter and frequently would bounce, rendering my passes useless. So I recently spent some time with an Easton E36 curve and I didn’t like it. I couldn’t do anything well except puck handle. I sure couldn’t lift the puck without thinking about it. So last couple of weeks I have been trying a CCM P19 curve and it does everything real well for me. It sauces great, I can backhand well, and it shoots great for me. Of course I now know P19’s don’t exist any more. 

So, what curve for me? Somebody recommended a Warrior Pacioretty curve. Not a super common curve but if I can find one... does anybody else have a curve recommendation? A P30 looks kind of close to what I’m after (P19). Can anyone confirm?big or 

thanks for any help!

 There's a chart that recommends Easton E28 or Warrior W28.

 

 

[caveman27 208]

13 hours ago, 2nhockey said:

As I continue to play and improve I am starting to evaluate my gear more critically. I’m working on my sticks now. Last season I used a True TC4 curve and for the most part it was ok.  It did most things ok for me except sauce. Whenever I’m trying to sauce the puck would flutter and frequently would bounce, rendering my passes useless. So I recently spent some time with an Easton E36 curve and I didn’t like it. I couldn’t do anything well except puck handle. I sure couldn’t lift the puck without thinking about it. So last couple of weeks I have been trying a CCM P19 curve and it does everything real well for me. It sauces great, I can backhand well, and it shoots great for me. Of course I now know P19’s don’t exist any more. 

So, what curve for me? Somebody recommended a Warrior Pacioretty curve. Not a super common curve but if I can find one... does anybody else have a curve recommendation? A P30 looks kind of close to what I’m after (P19). Can anyone confirm?

thanks for any help!

Also, you may want to try a lower flex shaft. If you cannot dig into it enough to flex, you are going to get a pass that is flubbed.

If you want to sauce or just elevate the puck up more easily, a big toe curve might help, a.k.a. something without a heel or mid curve. But depending on how much you put into it, you might find yourself saucing a pass over the defender, over the intended winger and eventually over the glass. 😁

[SoberBeerLeaguer 2]

If you are liking the P19 as it is a good all-around curve, try out the P29 from CCM or the P92 from Bauer. Those curves would also be a TC2 or TC2-5. Really accurate shot, accurate passing and great sauce. 

But there is a lot more to it than just the curve. I think as caveman mentioned above, a little more information would be helpful like your flex. What is your height and weight and what type of shot do you most typically take?

[start_today 770]

You said “As I continue to play and improve.” How long have you been playing? At some point, this is more about technique and practice than about finding a blade to do all the work.  Eventually you’ll find a blade that makes nasty 30 foot saucer passes, but you won’t be able to make a hard accurate 10 foot pass flat on the ice. 

Find a blade that is generally available that allows you to mostly do what you want. That additional output is on you, not equipment. The illusion of this site (which I love) is that if you just spend enough and buy the right stuff your skillset will suddenly improve without you actually doing any work. 

[stick9 890]

23 minutes ago, start_today said:

You said “As I continue to play and improve.” How long have you been playing? At some point, this is more about technique and practice than about finding a blade to do all the work.  Eventually you’ll find a blade that makes nasty 30 foot saucer passes, but you won’t be able to make a hard accurate 10 foot pass flat on the ice. 

Find a blade that is generally available that allows you to mostly do what you want. That additional output is on you, not equipment. The illusion of this site (which I love) is that if you just spend enough and buy the right stuff your skillset will suddenly improve without you actually doing any work. 

Good call, couldn't agree more.

Me, I'd start with a P88. As you progress you'll likely start feeling like tweaks to the curve may help make things easier, like an open face or more curve at the toe.

One thing is for certain, stay the hell away from a P28/W28 until you really know what you want.

[caveman27 208]

On 6/21/2019 at 12:42 AM, 2nhockey said:

As I continue to play and improve I am starting to evaluate my gear more critically. I’m working on my sticks now. Last season I used a True TC4 curve and for the most part it was ok.  It did most things ok for me except sauce. Whenever I’m trying to sauce the puck would flutter and frequently would bounce, rendering my passes useless. So I recently spent some time with an Easton E36 curve and I didn’t like it. I couldn’t do anything well except puck handle. I sure couldn’t lift the puck without thinking about it. So last couple of weeks I have been trying a CCM P19 curve and it does everything real well for me. It sauces great, I can backhand well, and it shoots great for me. Of course I now know P19’s don’t exist any more. 

So, what curve for me? Somebody recommended a Warrior Pacioretty curve. Not a super common curve but if I can find one... does anybody else have a curve recommendation? A P30 looks kind of close to what I’m after (P19). Can anyone confirm?

thanks for any help!

What kind of lie on your blade do you prefer? A wrong lie can ruin all your passes and shots (and receiving of passes too). It kind of sounds like this stick with the P19 blade puts the blade on the ice properly to make sauce passes and backhands easy. 

[ParabolicActivity 48]

Sidelineswap is full of P19 curves. It is the easiest to find discontinued curve. A lot of people say it is the same as a P92 but it's only kind of close. The P92 has more in common with toe curves IMO. The P19 is a true "Sakic" blade. The good news is that the Warrior W03 that is sold at retail is supposed to be their P92 clone but is much more similar to the P19. It doesnt open up like a P92 and the curve starts close to the heel than the toe.

[Buzz_LightBeer 969]

P19 used to be known as H11A, it's not a copy of P92 but similar. They also have P90 (reportedly a P92 clone), Also P21 and P29 are similar with different lies.

[stick9 890]

11 hours ago, ParabolicActivity said:

Sidelineswap is full of P19 curves. It is the easiest to find discontinued curve. A lot of people say it is the same as a P92 but it's only kind of close. The P92 has more in common with toe curves IMO. The P19 is a true "Sakic" blade. The good news is that the Warrior W03 that is sold at retail is supposed to be their P92 clone but is much more similar to the P19. It doesnt open up like a P92 and the curve starts close to the heel than the toe.

Been saying that for years. Guess people are content with what the manufacturers tell them.

[psulion22 402]

On 6/22/2019 at 9:39 AM, start_today said:

You said “As I continue to play and improve.” How long have you been playing? At some point, this is more about technique and practice than about finding a blade to do all the work.  Eventually you’ll find a blade that makes nasty 30 foot saucer passes, but you won’t be able to make a hard accurate 10 foot pass flat on the ice. 

Find a blade that is generally available that allows you to mostly do what you want. That additional output is on you, not equipment. The illusion of this site (which I love) is that if you just spend enough and buy the right stuff your skillset will suddenly improve without you actually doing any work. 

I'll also add that someone should be getting the blade or stick that best suits their style of play.  Don't change sticks/blades to try and improve skills you don't use very often, especially to the detriment of skills you use frequently.  In other words, don't change your blade because you want to make better saucer passes or your stick to take bigger slapshots if you don't make many saucer passes or slapshots, especially if that hurts your wrist/snap shot or regular passes.  I think a lot of guys get a stick that accentuates what they think is sexy - sauce, huge clappers, going bar down - instead of what they use in a game.

[caveman27 208]

6 minutes ago, psulion22 said:

I'll also add that someone should be getting the blade or stick that best suits their style of play.  Don't change sticks/blades to try and improve skills you don't use very often, especially to the detriment of skills you use frequently.  In other words, don't change your blade because you want to make better saucer passes or your stick to take bigger slapshots if you don't make many saucer passes or slapshots, especially if that hurts your wrist/snap shot or regular passes.  I think a lot of guys get a stick that accentuates what they think is sexy - sauce, huge clappers, going bar down - instead of what they use in a game.

I buy whatever is on clearance with the correct lie. LOL.

[ParabolicActivity 48]

I've spent a lot of money to come back around to that. I was lucky that for the first time in my life I had disposable income when I got back into hockey. So I went through variations of everything. P92 to 88, 38, PM9, P02, etc etc. There are a lot of cool curves but at the end of the day in a game situation you just need a jack of all trades curve, technique and some luck.