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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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I dont think you want to use the graphics as the reference point, in some cases the graphics could have been applied to the stick slightly off or skewed a little to one end.

Just my $0.02

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Yea i was thinking that but im assuming JR, and most others who have an HD cut the stick, so measuring from but end to fuse point would be irrelvant.

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Yea i was thinking that but im assuming JR, and most others who have an HD cut the stick, so measuring from but end to fuse point would be irrelvant.

There's no apparent fuse line of any kind? All previous Dolomite sticks weren't very cleverly disguised as two-piece sticks.

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Question of the day, can i convert a Dolo HD, broken OPS, to a 100% funtioning tapered shaft?

I'd imagin so, because its only the blade construction that has changed.

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There may be a visible fuse point but that still doesnt apply to me. Im looking at buying a broken hd OPS and converting it. So i need to figure if after all the neccesary cutting, will the shaft be tall enough. This is also why i asked for the measurment i did becuase i do not know how much the previous user cut it so measuring from the top is rendered useless.

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if you manage to successfully heat & pul there wont be any more more cutting required. then it all depends how much the original owner cut it (if any), i'd suggest asking them.

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any idea for fuse point of Bauer XVI stick? can I heat and pull or have to cut?

Thanks

cut

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I've got one, just wanting to know where to start. I've been looking at it trying to find the fuse line, but couldnt see anything...

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any idea for fuse point of Bauer XVI stick? can I heat and pull or have to cut?

Thanks

cut

Thanks Chadd.

Also, can you let me know approx where? And, if it is standard or tapered?

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i had to cut my mac daddy, i cut it to where it tappers the least so i could at least save some height. i had to file the inside of the shaft a little to get the blade to fit, just keep cutting it to where it doesnt tapper that much, you may have to get an extention.

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anyone done a SE16 before?

I heard somewhere that its pretty similar in construction to the SL. If that is the case then yes, I have done the SL before. Gotta be real patient with the heating of the tenon because it doesn't come out easy. It is also hollow all the way through, so you can't use rebar to poke it out.

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What kind of saw do you use to cut composites? I've used a wood saw before but finally got around to getting a hack saw, what blade is best? Anyone use a mitre box or do most just go free hand?

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What kind of saw do you use to cut composites? I've used a wood saw before but finally got around to getting a hack saw, what blade is best? Anyone use a mitre box or do most just go free hand?

I use a mitre saw, just because I have it in the garage.

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I use a hacksaw when I'm at home, but at school I've used a foldable pocket saw before and had it work fine. Took a little longer, but the cut was certainly good enough.

It was a SE, so I can't say how it would work on fiberglass.

And free hand is fine for me.

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I've had my eye on a chop saw but wasn't sure if it would make a clean cut on the composites, can you use them for wood too? What kind of blade is that?

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I've had my eye on a chop saw but wasn't sure if it would make a clean cut on the composites, can you use them for wood too? What kind of blade is that?

We used a disc made for cutting composite material. You do not want to use the same blade for wood.

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I just did the SE16 borken OPS over teh weekend. wasnt able to find the apparent fuse line, so just cut and chiseled out the tenon. Took a little while with some heat, but knocked most of it off and put a Bauer XX blade in... feels very snug, and took a little force to push the blade in. I might cut another 1/2inch or so off, but we'll see how it goes.

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