jonesy9020

I think you could probably get some cash for it, but just my two cents from trying to sell hockey gear on ebay over the summer -- list it close to what you'd like to sell it for. The market is pretty lousy right now and if you list for a low starting bid there's a good chance someone comes along and puts in a single bid on the last minute of the auction to win the thing.

Think you're referring to the hosel. At least from the pics on HM, it would appear that at least the ABS Lite standard blade is a longer hosel. The ABS comp blades both tapered and senior appear to be shorter.

Picked up a never used old school Synergy Elite SE 85 Flex at a moving sale for $10 today. I know they weren't the most durable, but for $10, it feels great and honestly can't possibly disappoint.

A few people have also had luck taking old footbeds, cutting off the front part, and placing it under your current footbed in the front of the skate.

Curious, were you both using the step steel for CXN holders? Did one of you swap out for LS2s or some other holder?

Thanks JS. Jetspeed sounds pretty awesome. Might be trying some on soon.

Thanks for the update JS, I'd just like to ask about some of the inferences I got from the description. Is the Jetspeed now slightly narrower through the toebox, slightly narrower in the heel pocket, and less deep than the Tacks?

The catalog claims that the Ultra Tacks Stick at 425g is the "lightest, best balanced, most durable stick we have ever created." I'm not one to get super hung up on marketing claims, but isn't it just objectively false that this is the lightest stick CCM's ever made? Wasn't the first version of the Crazy Light only 405 grams? Granted it had a lot of durability issues, but it was significantly lighter than the stated weight for the Ultra Tacks.

I'll defer to someone with actual knowledge about this, but I'd tend to think not. The heel cup is a very structured, stiff part of the boot, so I'm not sure that you could punch that area, or that even if you could, you would want to. If the bumps developed by using an ill-fitting skate, they should gradually go away in a skate that fits well (I used to have a painful, swollen navicular bone area from rubbing up on the inner eyelets of a skate that was not deep enough for me, but it went away when I got into a better fitting model). If you punch the boot and the haglund's deformities eventually shrink or vanish, you'll have way too much slop in the heel, won't get a proper heel lock, and could end up making this a chronic rather than temporary problem. In the meantime, perhaps some additional padding (a few layers of moleskin donuts around the bump or maybe bunga pads) could help. I might also look into Stable 26 socks which could reduce any play in the heel that creates the friction that causes you irritation. Finally, as much as it's no fun, the best thing to do might be to take time off from skating to let the bumps diminish. Best of luck.

Looking to pick up a pair of Shifts on clearance and can't make heads or tails of the sizing advice after going through this forum. I am exactly a 9D in Bauer Supreme One.7. My best guess from the forums is a 9.5, but I also may need a 10. Obviously going to a shop to do this would be best, but my LHS does not carry alkali. Thanks for the help!

Anyone had a chance to look at the Surgeon 300 shoulders? As low profile as the 500s? Looks like they might be a great choice for pick-up and lower level beer league.

While Warrior initially may have missed the mark on their marketing strategy, this tweet doesn't fall into that category. They're having fun with the fact that they released a stick with the same characteristics and almost exactly the same acronym several months earlier. I think it's pretty smart, especially with Bauer claiming to be such an innovator in the industry. Sidenote: while the Dolomite, Mac Daddy, Nipple Grip, etc. were kinda over the top for hockey, I think it helped people notice the products, which they then toned down to fit the hockey market. I actually wonder if they would have survived had they not gotten a foothold with some of their more outlandish designs. JW: Is there any substance to the suggestions being bandied about that Bauer contract players are using Warrior repaints? I know repaints within a brand are a thing (e.g. a TotalOne painted to look like an APX2, Mako painted to look like a V9, etc.) and I know in the past there have been rumors of interbrand repaints, especially when Easton was pioneering OPS with the Synergy and some of their top players were clinging to wood twigs, but I haven't heard of cross-brand repaints recently.

Do T90/100 still come in LKP variants? Has Sherwood streamlined so that True Touch = Mid-Kick, while Rekker = Low-Kick?

Figured this thread was on a similar topic so I'd jump on. Buying some boots with the holders removed. They're older skates originally with 287 mm holders on them. I am aware that I will probably have to redrill holes to put on new holders, but I'm curious if I could put a 280 mm holder on the boot. Main reason is I have a pair of Pitch3 lying around and would like to avoid the extra cost of going out and paying for new holders, steel, and installation. If I can put the 280s on, should I expect to feel any different while skating? Thanks in advance for your input.

There are several benefits to using a more neutral setup. Off the top of my head: 1. Backwards skating 2. Standing taller/more stable while posting up in front of the net for screens, tips, rebounds. 3. Better glide -- more even weight distribution across blade as opposed to all up front. In the end, there's a lot of personal preference involved. It's somewhat curious that the main designer behind the makos/mlx has a speed skating background, which is all about forward speed and acceleration. I agree that more forward pitch is generally better if your main concern is forward skating speed and acceleration, but there's a lot more to hockey than that and different people have different biomechanics.

I'd start with heel lifts and go from there as you could have some other problems profiling further, specifically inability to get a toe flick out of your stride if you keep shaving down. If the heel lifts aren't enough, then go back for more profiling.

Just FYI, sale of 405 stick got held up on shipping issues. It is still available if anyone else wants it. Chris, I'm sorry I didn't fix this for you earlier.

Edit, see below.

I read somewhere, unfortunately can't remember where, that the Tacks line was supposed to compete directly with Supreme.

170 appears very similar to old One.8. So, yes, probably a bargain. However, if your son doesn't like stiff skates and the One.7 was too stiff, the 170 won't be any better.

I was also a little confused at what appeared to be downgraded materials for outsoles on the Supreme 170 and 180, but I have a (probably wrong) theory about why they did this. If I'm right, I like the move a lot. Given that pricing stays more or less uniform across the board, 20 bucks here and there notwithstanding, Bauer appears to have reallocated money from outsoles into quarter materials across the middle of the line skates. 150 and 160 get upgraded to a "Tech PU" (looks like it could be similar to the Surlyn on the outgoing One.7) from I think nylon on the outgoing One.5 and One.6. 170 gets Tech Mesh -- used to be on the One.8. 180 gets Curv composite -- Used to be (only) on the One.9 and NXG. Overall I think this may show an increased focus on lateral stiffness and durability at the expense of outsole tech in the midrange skates. This seems like a very smart and consumer focused decision -- for the intermediate level players that use these types of skates most often, that added lateral stiffness should provide a lot more benefit than the "energy transfer" properties that full composite outsoles supposedly provide (I'm sure these do make a difference for elite players, but I don't think a beer league or high school player would notice much difference in a blind test). Durability concerns speak for themselves - better quarters take longer to deteriorate and you end up saving money by buying skates less often. Outsoles don't tend to deteriorate at all (and to the extent that they do, TPU outsoles seem to be less susceptible than composites). It could also help sort out some of the weird weight "issues" in the older line. Because of the Surlyn quarters, the One.7 ended up awkwardly being the heaviest skate in the line. Moving that type of plastic material into lower end skates adds durability and weight, which seems like it might allow the line to progress from heavier low-end skates into lighter high-end skates. I don't really buy that the 30 or so gram difference means much at all, but it does make the line progress more naturally from a marketing perspective. All in all, solid changes to the whole line IMO.

From my understanding, the depth is pretty standard across the line. I was fitted for an ordered in pair of one.7s by trying on a number of one.6s in different sizes. I think what you might be seeing making it look like the 180 is deeper is the wider piece of material used to hold the eyelets on that skate compared to the 170 - creates a sort of optical illusion almost.

1) Mission Pure Lites - just enough stiffness for me without being uncomfortable at the time - was probably a pee-wee. Loved the supplefit design. Also helps that I wore these at the peak of my playing ability compared to my peers. 2) Bauer Supreme 1000 - First "real" skate when I was a kid. Might have rose-colored glasses on but compared to the plastic, non-cushioned, I think they were called Bauer Challengers or something like that, these were awesome and my skating got much better very fast. 3) CCM 352 Tacks - Probably the best fitting I ever had done on a skate. Not super high tech but so comfortable. 4) Bauer Supreme 6000 - Felt ok, not great. Probably would be top 2 if I had gone with a wider size. Despite fitting gripes, leather-like liner and super clean all black leather classic design were excellent. 5) Mission L7 - Most comfortable, lightest, best performing skates I ever owned...until they started creasing all over about 2 months in. Most exciting, expensive, and disappointing skate I've owned. Here's hoping the one.7s I have on order make the list, (although it's probably not too hard to bump the L7)

Any idea what the price point will be on the M8's? Are they a more a budget skate or more like the One.9/X90 vs the NXG/APX2?