krisdrum

Ok, good to know, no one I've talked to locally at the shops felt that way. I'll see how my skate tonight goes. With the wrap method do you feel like it snugged the heel area up? That is my problem area, narrow bumpy heels make it difficult to get good lock a lot of the time. I've also seen video of SVH "massaging" the heel and achilles area while the boot is on the customer to get a better mold. Probably want to try that as well.

Guy helping me didn't even give me a chance to tap the heel back before tying. Another shop I've been to also does the heel tap after tying, but they do it as an assisted "heel drop" (usually 2-3 times), which they seem to swear by and the shop is one of the best in the area. So process should be. Foot in boot, tap heel back, tie up? Always?

I did. Although I did it after they were already tied up, not before tying.

Baked my TF7s yesterday. Haven't skated them yet. Putting them back on this morning left boot feels perfect, great heel lock, even pressure/contact over the entire foot. Right foot feels a bit sloppy in the heel area. I can raise my heel in the boot a bit. I do have a larger "Bauer Bump" on my right heel and it has been a fit issue for me in the past. I think it has to do mostly with reduced surface contact between my heel and the boot. Maybe I need to find the sweet spot tying them up, but the heel lock was not nearly as good as the left foot at first try. We did not do the "plastic wrap" method when molding. Talked to the shop that did the bake and asked if re-baking the right boot using the wrap method would give better results. His take was try skating in them a few times, but they usually get the same results with either the wrap or traditional lace all the way up method. I'm going to skate in them Thursday night and see how they feel. Has anyone tried both methods, and found the wrap method provided better molding? I know many of you have had good success with the wrap method. My LHSs (I called several) all said they don't do the wrap method anymore unless specifically asked to. Not sure if that is just a time saving approach or if the two methods really provide nearly identical results.

Anyone know of a shop that carries "spare" TF7/9 footbeds with the arch pieces and the screwdriver/quick change tool? Just picked up a pair of barely used TF7 off SLS and they didn't come with any of the goodies. Or should I reach out directly to True to see if I can purchase those items direct?

They don't ship to the US to my knowledge. I tried to order a pair of True skates from them a few weeks back and was unable to because of shipping restrictions.

Also not sure it is a fair comparison, but I have a senior Warrior QREdge and an intermediate CCM Jetspeed Team. Both marked 65 flex. The Warrior shaft definitely feels "longer" in my hand. Meaning the sidewall (where my thumbs and fingers rest) is longer. Putting the sticks side by side and evening up one of the shaft sides, visually you can see the difference I am feeling, but it isn't much of a length difference when you look at it. Maybe 5mm, probably less. But it definitely feels different in the hand. Feels more "rectangular", where the CCM in the hand feels more "square". Wouldn't be surprised if there is a slight difference in the cross section dimensions as well, but I don't feel it or easily see it when matching the two sticks up. I've flip flopped between senior and intermediate shafts for awhile now and pretty consistently the seniors feel bigger (more rectangular) in the hand.

My understanding is they are very similar to the classic 735 as far as fit goes. I believe the only difference is a wider heel. The *35 Grafs usually had a pretty narrow heel and widened as they moved towards the toes.

Yeah, radius doesn't make sense in this context. Top/bottom dimensions (assuming the sticks blade is flat on the ice) is what I was calling "cross section". What I was calling sidewalls would be the surfaces your thumb and fingers are on in a typical "put the stick in the V between the thumb and fingers" grip. I don't have a Bauer stick to compare to, so I'll let someone more familiar with Warrior vs. Bauer weigh in (shaft dimensions may also change a bit model to model, I know Vapors usually have a more rounded out shaft). I do have several senior and intermediate models and usually I don't see/feel a difference in the top/bottom surface, but do on the sidewalls, making the overall grip of the stick slightly smaller.

Can you be more specific about which part of the shaft you are referring? Is width the cross section that the V between your thumb and forefinger of your top hand would sit on? Or is width the sidewalls your fingers would lay against coming off the knuckles of your top hand? Intermediate sticks are typically smaller dimensions compared to senior. I haven't felt a huge difference in "cross section", but they usually have shorter "side walls". It isn't by much when you look at them side by side, but it is noticeable (at least to me) when in the hand.

I tried some Bladetech, standard SS finish. Used them probably 10 times before deciding the boot I had them on just wasn't going to work and I had to return them. Kept the blades in hopes my son can use them on his next pair of skates. I thought they sharpened up very nicely. Felt really nice on ice. Not sure I felt the spring action in the toe, but they were a top quality blade very similar to Step in my brief experience. I liked them enough I would definitely use them again when other blades wear out and need replacement.

I also understand from a Hockey Monkey employee who helped me (on the east coast), True's policy is every store offers a customer a bake upon try-on, no commitment to buy. @beedee might be worth going back armed with that information. I tried them on (baked) and really liked how they felt around most of my foot. No pressure points, felt like a warm hug. The only reason I didn't pull the trigger is because the heel and ankle area was a bit sloppy, but that is always my problem area. I think doing their recommended "saran wrap" method would have likely solved for that, but didn't get a chance to test that theory. Since they've extended their 30 day guarantee, I may have to pull the trigger and give them a try.

Maybe Bauer's size numbering may have changed since your last pair of skates or your current skates are too long. BUT, the Bauer scan is also just a starting point. I wouldn't buy blindly based on that input. For example, I came out as a size 5 fit 3 when I was scanned, but based on my experience since, am probably a size 4.5 fit 3 or maybe even 2.

755 and 735 skates should be equivalent "tier" skates with slightly different fit. Graf's number system indicates the boot dimensions and the level (tier) of the skate itself. If your G5s are based on the 705 last, the 755 will fit differently. That might not be a bad thing, but only you can determine that.

Exactly. This is the beauty of the CCM guarantee. I am about to return some skates,unfortunately I just couldn't get them comfortable on my heel, despite so pretty aggressive punching of the boot to reduce pressure points. Wish I could ave gotten them to work for me, as they are really nice skates and I love the blade release mechanism on the new holders.

This advice from @althoma1 is the best you'll get: With any of the brands and models, I'd keep trying on smaller sizes until you're sure it's too small (toes are bent to fit in the skate) and then go up half a size. You want the tightest fitting skate you can manage while still being comfortable. Good even pressure all over your foot is ideal. I just recently realized I'd been wearing skates too big and getting something the right size makes a big difference, as you aren't fighting against the skate.

Thanks @shoot_the_goalie and @puckpilot, helpful input. He is sensitive, but I am also new to the sharpening game (I have access to a ProSharp Home), so I'm sure I play a part in this sensitivity/hyper focus on his blades. This week I let him practice on steel I would have probably already re-sharpened due to some nicks and rolled edges in a few spots. He hasn't complained, and his skating hasn't suffered (he is still able to go hard, quick stops and turns, etc.) so I think this is more about the learning curve of finding out what damage is enough to warrant a run through the machine and what I can let slide. I think I'm not used to seeing this many nicks and damage because his game is changing. He is becoming more gritty and involved in board battles than he used to. I'm sure that is contributing to what I am seeing. Lesson learned - I didn't grow up playing hockey, so some of these nuances are new to me.

You can get an idea of inventory on their website by selecting the model and size and clicking the "find in store" button. Then you can call the store directly to confirm they have the stock they are showing online. Monkey Sports is another good retailer you might want to check out. Not sure if IceWarehouse has a retail location, but they are based in CA as well. Sounds like you have a similar foot shape to me, just much larger (I have small feet). My skates (depending on brand) are 2-2.5 sizes smaller than most of my street shoes. I would try to find Fit 3 Bauers, Wide fit CCMs and the True retail models to try on. I just tried the True TF7 (regular width, they don't make Wide in my size) a few weeks ago and really liked what I felt for the most part, but haven't pulled the trigger (I'm a bit concerned about heel lock). I'm in older Grafs right now and tried getting the last generation of CCM Ribcors to work for me, but I think I need to cut my loses and return them. They are really nice, but I'm feeling too many pressure points and my 90 days are almost up, so need to make a decision soon.

He uses 5/8", which based on my understanding would give him a thicker edge wall compared to a deeper ROH. But maybe that is minute compared to other factors. Bought them off what appeared to be a reputable seller on SLS from Canada. So I did save a few bucks with the exchange rate. They appear identical to Step I've seen in retail LHS. Maybe he is just way rougher on them than I am giving him credit for. Rarely had these issues with Bauer LS2 steel, but also less bumping and grinding and battling when he was using the LS2.

My son is currently running standard STEP steel (stainless) on his skates having upgraded him from the stock CCM steel. I've noticed lately that after almost every skate, but especially games, he has blade damage (rolled edges, nicks, gouges). He is a D man and play is getting more physical (first year U12). He is pretty careful with his blades, so I don't think he is doing something stupid like stepping on cement or supports for the benches, etc., so I am assuming this is coming from him battling for pucks, maybe stepping on a stick or another skate in the heat of the moment. Wondering if there is anything I can do to help avoid damage (DLC coated blades less prone?)? Is this typical regardless of the quality and coating on the steel? Unfortunately he also happens to be a "princess and the pea" when it comes to his edges, he seems to feel EVERYTHING, so I've been sharpening his stuff way more often than I was previously and we've already had a few "hot changes" on the bench or during warm ups when he's deemed the blades unusable. It is what it is for the remainder of the season, or at least the life of these skates (which he'll probably outgrow soon), but I want to be prepared for the next pair, so I can get ahead of this, as I doubt it will become less prevalent.

They are equivalent skates, with the 3x being the newest version. Given the 2.9 is an older model, you should be able to get them for less than the 3x. Unless there is a new feature you love or the fit is better and different with the 3x, I'd push to get the 2.9 at a discount.

Thanks. Bummer they don't ship to the US. Maybe I can convince a friend in BC to receive these and ship them to me. HA! According to Google with the current exchange rate, $200 CAD is about $160 USD.

Where are you seeing them for that cheap? I've seen them for about 200usd. 200cdn might be worth it even with the additional taxes and shipping.

Very helpful. This gives me more food for thought. I was eyeing a "stock" pair on SLS listed as size 4 with a picture of the box showing a handwritten 4-4.5, less than I would pay for a pair of TF7, even with the recent sale. Plus I have some cash on SLS I could use. But, to your point - not returnable, it is a decent amount of cash to take a flyer on (at least for me). Decisions decisions.

Yep, thanks. Why I am asking. Considering diving in on the stock Jr skate at a deep discount. Seems for most people the TF7/9 run a 1/2 size large, so you want to size down. I'm already in a skate that runs a bit tighter length-wise for the given number size (Graf) compared to the other players in the market (CCM/Bauer). I can comfortably wear a CCM Ribcor 4.5. In size 5 for Graf. So I am thinking the True 4-4.5 (believe they have inserts in the toe that give them 1/2 size adjustability) could work for me. I am pretty confident the TF7 in a 4 is the right size in that model.