krisdrum

Awesome, thanks. And yes, I guess they were only available in Jr sizes, didn't realize. I usually wear a size 5 or 4.5 (small feet, lucky me) so never bothered to see if they were available in Sr. sizes. I recently tried TF7 on in size 4, with a quick bake, and they would probably work for me, but I did not pull the trigger to make the purchase. So it sounds like the older "stock" skates are closer to the original custom only skates, than they are to the current retail skates due to improvements in lay-up design and such. If I was pretty comfortable in a baked TF7 size 4, do you think the "stock" size 4-4.5 skate would work for me? Not too concerned about weight (unless someone can make a good argument), especially since I currently use Grafs (535 and 735) that I don't think are known for their featherweight.

Sorry, just for clarity... which boot is more thermoformable? Retail TF7/9 or the customs? Also - anyone know how the "stock" skates they put out prior to releasing the TF7/9 compare fit-wise to the newer retail versions? From the looks of it, very similar to a TF9 boot (carbon shell, etc.). Seeing some of those on clearance at good prices.

I don't think they make as many of them as they make of the 29, 28, and 88, so they are hard to find. Hopefully it is popular enough to stick around, as my son has fallen in love.

??? Maybe I misread, but I am missing where someone stated the 7092 is more protective than the ST? My understanding is ST > 7092 for protection and adjustment. Seems the comments above support that.

Sorry, took me a bit to get a pic. https://photos.app.goo.gl/qiXxCYU6cnPE9RV37

"luggage wrap"? Like a webbed nylon belt? Or like saran wrap/clear plastic cling wrap? I didn't kick my heel back that hard. Could have gone harder. And maybe I could exaggerate the haglund's bump to get a deeper imprint as I've seen RVH describe in some fitting videos. It needs a nice pocket to sit in. If I felt pretty good about solving the heel/haglund's bump issue, I'd take the plunge.

very helpful in addition to all the other goodies in this thread. Sorry, the below is a bit dense. Update to my last comment: I tried them on! My local Monkey store had size 4 TF7s in stock, so I took a lunch ride over to check them out. The store actually does a bake for you, without even asking and obviously no requirement to purchase, which I was a bit surprised by, but, I certainly wasn't going to decline. Context: I've skated most of my "career" in Graf 535 wides, size 5. Tried a whole bunch of other stuff, but haven't found anything that locks my heel in like those. By today's standards, they are wet noodles and I have wanted to try something stiffer, I feel like I don't always have the support I'd want (for my weak, new-ish skater ankles). Currently about 45 days into a pair of Ribcor 76K D, size 4.5 that have been pretty good, but giving me a hard time on my right heel's haglund's deformity. I've tried to punch the area and without going really aggressive, still struggling. I'm returning them if I can't get a sufficient pocket created. Length-wise my feet are small, but I usually have some volume issues in skates around my arch and instep to heel. Wide-ish forefoot, narrow-ish heel, but the bump on my right makes it hard to get good surface area contact with the back of most boots without punching or other manipulation. With that background I was pleasantly surprised by how the TF7 fit with an initial bake. For the most part, they felt like a warm hug. Nice snug even pressure all around. We didn't saran wrap, so that might be something to explore if I decide to jump in and take advantage of the 30 day guarantee. Some of my toes were a bit harder against the front of the toebox than I am accustomed, but not unexpected considering all the input from the group. Definitely not painful or curling. Just a bit of pressure. Width was fine in the forefoot/ball. Boot wrapped pretty well as it moved up towards my ankle, the facing was definitely coming up and over. I did crank them a bit more once they were cool and could see the potential for lace bite, but nothing a bit of care while lacing couldn't fix. Then I stood up...heel/lower ankle felt a bit sloppy, especially compared to the Grafs and Ribcors. Had a bit of ankle wobble when walking (both skates, right more noticeable). It didn't feel like my heel was lifting, but it felt roomier than I would want. Not the even, warm hug of the rest of the boot. And the toes maybe got a bit more cramped, so maybe I slid a bit forward. Bending my knees did pull my foot back a bit, but didn't give me the heel lock I am looking for. They definitely felt different from anything I have ever tried on previously, including a few months in Makos. I see the potential, but am concerned about the heel/ankle "slop". Did anyone have similar first impressions you were able to solve for with another bake or two and some different fitting techniques (saran wrap, ratchet clamp the heel, etc.)? In the Junior size, I save about $40 bucks, which isn't a huge difference, but something for a novice beer leaguer.

Wow, so wasn't planning on picking up some skates, but... going to try to find the TF7 to try on. To summarize what I remember from the 38 pages of this thread: TF7 and 9 fit a bit differently, mostly due to the different tongue. 9 might give a bit more volume since the tongue is thinner. But they are swappable post purchase. General rule of sizing is to go 1/2 size down from your current skate. So if I am in a size 4.5 Ribcor, more than likely the size 4 True will be the best fit post bake and break-in. Sidenote - been in Grafs mostly and just recently figured out why I had issues with the same sized skate from other makers. Graf tends to undersize their boots. I dropped a half size in CCM and the fit was much closer. I know the shells are very heat reactive, anyone encounter an issue they couldn't solve for with heat and either a bit of punching or saran wrap? I have a decent sized Bauer bump on my right heel I need to be able to punch/mold around, or I don't get enough surface area against the back of the boot and tend to get slippage.

IW's MAP disclaimer on the sale notification only mentions CCM, Bauer, and Warrior. I just threw a pair in the cart and they were automatically discounted.

No, I think he means prostockhockeysticks. There is a recent thread on them and by most accounts seem to be the best of the rest in this category. Hills did a review of them about a year ago and said they stacked up very favorably against top of the line name brand sticks.

Prosharp Home does a great job. I've even had it checked by my most trusted LHS and they were impressed and they do the best sharpening in the state from my experience.

Second. I'll look, but very seldom is it worth picking up their stuff considering the quality. When I first started 6-7 years ago, I picked up some of their sticks and they were super heavy, not well balanced, and just not worth the money.

Update: Nevermind. I thought the pictures were two side by side (Blade A and B) shots. To the naked eye the blade on the right in the pictures looks thicker and the side walls more convex. Could just be an optical illusion or if you cut the blade in different spots. Would have to get a micrometer to confirm. But to my eye the shape and thickness looks different. It is most noticeable in the second picture.

As the "equipment manager" for my son, I prefer the XS. The LS2 is fine, but doing a "hot swap" is a more involved process. Just the other day, during pre-game warm-up, son was struggling and could tell his edges weren't right. Came off and I swapped his blades in probably 90 seconds with the XS holder. Didn't miss a shift. With his LS2s, that process would have taken much longer and required the tool, instead of just my two hands. Haven't noticed any difference in the hold each provides to the blade. Now, granted this is our first year on the XS and our previous skates with LS2 were outgrown in a season, probably not enough time to significantly loosen the trigger mechanism up. As for @boo10 comment on mechanical lock, the benefit to me is that XS is a manually manipulated lock. You can feel when it is loose and you can adjust it or know you have to replace it. With the LS2, you pull the trigger, listen for the click and hope for the best. No way to adjust or manipulate outside of trying to pop-out and re-install if you aren't getting proper engagement.

How are you defining "hook"? Is it just up in the toe? Over the length of the blade? I think most blade charts have a depth measurement if you are looking for over the length of the blade. 1/2" is what I think the P88 and P92 are. P88 is a constant curve from heel to toe and only slightly open. P92 the curve "center" is moved closer to the toe (but still mid) and is open. If you are talking about toe hook/kink, then I don't think any blade chart specifies the depth of the hook. But from looking, I'd say P88 and P92 have pretty much zero hook. P90TM is basically a P92 with a toe hook added, but does not look to be as prominent as the P28 hook (maybe because the P28 is a flatter curve overall compared to the P92). So for retail curves, I think the P28 has the most I've seen.

Not to dissuade you from a new pair of skates, but if the only thing you don't like about the Makos is the protection, why not pick up a pair of shotblockers to beef that aspect up and call it a day? Or is the aesthetic too off-putting?

According to IW, they match up to the 78K/68K/48K, so 1 price point down from the top of the line model.

This has helped you? I would think the weight distribution of a 12 belt around your waist would not really replicate the weight of wearing pads all over your body. Or do you think the added weight has simply made you stronger / more well balanced which offsets the weight of kit?

Yeah, my experience has been similar. I have a pair of HPRs and some Vapors. Both 13". I swim in the Vapors compared to the HPR, especially in the gussets.

Local hockey shop. You'll need to try the boots back on after they punch the area to make sure they are good. You'll also need to pinpoint where on the boot the bump is hitting so they can punch the right area.

^^^ This! I also have the bump and wear my shoes similarly to what the OP describes. Getting the heel punched definitely helps make room for the bump and I've found allows my heel to sit deeper in the heel pocket and make better contact with the boot.

Might want to try something with enzymes in it, like Rockin' Green Activewear wash. It is a powdered detergent that is designed for technical fabrics. I've bought almost all my gear used and I usually soak stuff in a tub of water and a few scoops of this wash a few times to get rid of any stink/dirt/etc. Works great in my experience. I usually put the items in a large plastic storage container (like you might use in your garage), fill it with enough water to submerge the items, mix in the powder so it dissolves, place the items in and then weigh them down so they stay submerged. Let them sit in there for an hour or so. Dump the water, repeat, then dump the water and let them sit in fresh water, no detergent. Hang dry afterwards and you should be good to go.

Doesn't mention "hard shell" or any kind of reinforcement to make it rigid. I'd guess it is not, but haven't seen it in person to confirm. It also looks too narrow to work well with taller "towers" like the Shift, unless you overlap the towers. I added some PE sheeting to my son's standard A&R blade pouch, originally to help make it easier to take the blades out, but as an added benefit it added rigidity to the pouch, and could now be used to store a second set of blades since the PE adds more separation options.

Anyone with Haglund's Deformity (Bauer Bumps) use Trues? Either custom or stock? If custom, did they shape the carbon heel piece to accommodate your bumps? If stock, were you able to form the boot or carbon heel section around your bump? I've found in most skates I have to get an area of the heel punched out a bit for my bumps to sit in and so I get more contact area between my heel and the back of the boot to minimize heel slippage. A few years back I tried Makos but found the carbon heel wasn't moldable and I couldn't get my heel to sit tightly in the boot.

Believe this is the one being referenced: