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VegasHockey

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Everything posted by VegasHockey

  1. Most players do not prefer super stiff blades. In fact, with Bauer, the 2N Pro blade , which has a lightweight, stiff foam core with a thick dampening layer is the #1 Bauer blade in the NHL. Apparently they claim its for versatile players that like to handle the puck and be able to shoot in any situation. This makes sense considering how hard NHL players passses are. You wouldn't want a ridiculously stuff blade as it would make it difficult to catch passes and also take one-time shots as well.
  2. FWIW the 2020 Bauer line of Supreme skates no longer is using injected eyelets....
  3. They only report what the graphic is, not what the actual stick is. For example, they list Kane as using a Flylite and he uses a Supreme.
  4. I really like these helmets but I am in between a small and a medium. Regardless of the padding options the helmet is either too small or too loose for me. I was really bummed about this as I am currently stuck wearing a Re-Akt 95, which fits me decent but is a bit hot. I loved the E700 and when my very last one failed I was quite sad. Soon as I saw these I figured they would be a solid replacement for the E700. The only other helmet that kind of fits me is the Warrior Alpha, but it sits high on my head and feels goofy.
  5. As I am watching all of the highlights from yesterday's games I noticed many forwards, most recognized for getting off quick shots, fast release, are all seemingly using sticks that are not in fact low kick. For example, Barzal and McDavid use Tacks. We all know Kane uses a Supreme wrapped as a Vapor, but many others such as Kucherov, Pasta, Marner, and such all use a medium/variable kick stick. I know Crosby and Mackinnon use a low kick, RIbcor, but it seems many players are moving away from low kick point sticks to either a mid/hybrid kick point (Nexus/Alpha/JetSpeed) or a higher kick point, such as Nylander, Barzal and such. So, that makes me wonder. How many players are using low kick sticks when they really should be using a mid, variable, or stick with a higher kick point?
  6. There are significant upgrades this year. I personally would wait. I wish I could share more info... but can't 😞
  7. They work ok, but it really depends on where you store your gear/skates. If its in a cold garage, nothing is going to really help. I would also suggest not putting your skate any place too hot to dry out at that also can lead to premature breakdown of the skate materials. I personally hang all of my gear in a little locker I built in my garage that has a space heater and a few fans that circulate the air. It is thermostat regulated and keep the locker at 70 degrees. AFter I skate I always take all of my gear out, spray it with a mixed solution of alcohol, water, and tea tree oil. This helps the gear dry out faster while also killing all of the bacteria but its not abrasive enough to damage the plastics and foams. Apply a very small amount as you don't want to saturate your gear. The mix I use is as follows: Add 1 cup of plain water, 1 cup of rubbing alcohol, and 20-30 drops of a powerful essential oil like lavender or tea tree, both have antiviral and antibacterial properties. Put it in a clean spray bottle and shake well before using. I find as long as I immediately take my gear out after skating, hang it, and spray it, I can go months without having to clean any of it aggressively.
  8. Between the Kuch and Pasta, I prefer the Pasta personally. But it has to be the real deal.
  9. I have experimented with different lie and even curve pattern, changed flex and such too. The lie seems fine if I look at the wear on the blade.
  10. There are a TON of those individuals around these parts. It amazes me how many people are suckered, they go to some random dude to get their skates sharpened in his garage by a a self proclaimed guru of skate sharpening who has legitimately no clue about the science and art behind it. I take pride in every sharpening I do, no matter if it's for a kid playing in-house club or a AAA player going to nationals. Anyway, enough of my whining and lamenting.....
  11. Ever since I was young I have used a shorter stick than most. Probably to my collar bone when on skates and slightly under my chin when off skates. Obviously, over the last couple decades hockey stick technology has advanced tremendously and I find that a very short stick, while beneficial in some cases, also has limitations when it comes to shooting. Shots with a longer stick are far more powerful as you have more leverage to load the stick. The added length also allows you to change the angle when you are shooting as well which you cant really do properly with a short stick. That being said, I keep trying to lengthen my stick, I tried to lengthen it 1" and struggled with puck handling, shooting was great though. I figured I would give it time and I would be able to adjust but after about 10 hours of ice time I found myself still struggling with puck handling. I always feel like the puck is too far away and I don't have proper control. The added length also makes the stick feel heavier and more unwieldy when compared to the shorter stick. Have any of you changed from a short stick to a longer stick? If so, how long did it take for you to adjust, if you ever did adjust? I find myself getting so frustrated as my playing has been awful as of late and I desperately want to go back to the shorter stick but I don't want to have to restart the "adjustment process" again from scratch. Suggestions, tips, hints, all are welcome. Thanks!
  12. It blows my mind that people think ALL visible/exposed steel needs to be sharpened. This is how people end up with banana blades. lol
  13. 1: You don't need to go so high on the toe/heel when you sharpen. You are never skating on those areas of the steel. 2: You can use it to fix an edge in a pinch, but don't over use it as constant use bends the steel edges inward which will then require more passes to repair.
  14. From what I can tell overlaying them on one another, they are the same.
  15. I personally have never had any issues. I wear my shins under the tongue and don't pull my socks over the tendon.
  16. Should be a #9 copper rivet, like these: https://blackstonesport.com/en/product/9-copper-rivets Ace Hardware sells them. If you flare the rivet after hammering it it won't ever come lose again.
  17. I noticed a pair of skates Clayton Keller was wearing recently at Coyotes practice that had extra rivets added to the holders. I wish I would have snapped a picture of it.
  18. I think it's time for him, like Jagr, to hang up the skates and move on. He has not looked impressive at all this season.
  19. After you replace the rivet you should flare it, this will prevent it from ever coming out again.
  20. The ones Scott makes are better and cost less. Prices are in CAD. https://wholesaleskatesharpening.com/product-category/skate-hones/
  21. ProSharp makes a great product but their customer service honestly sucks in North America. They are spread too thin and definitely need more help.
  22. I own multiple sharpeners. ProSharp, Blademaster, and Sparx. I personally sharpen my skates on the ProSharp when at the shop and on SParx when I am home. No preference really better the, just whatever is easier to access. I am happy with the performance and finish of either option. I personally do not use the Blademaster on my own skates as I want to keep the profile as long as possible. We do have many customers that demand a big machine sharpening, and we are happy to do it for them, but we also try to educate them why the ProSharp and Sparx are a good option. I never say one is better than the other, as that's personal preference, but I will happily list the pros and cons of each.
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