VegasHockey

I like these guys for socks and jerseys. Good quality at a killer price. https://pshsports.com/collections/hockey-uniforms

Yeah, I am wondering the same as well. Don't get me wrong, I love my TRUE skates but if you found something that works well for you why change things?

From Seattle to Vancouver isn't that far of a drive 😉 We tend to have staff go to the white north every month or so to grab some items from Lowry and other brands to save on shipping costs. Recently we had to head to Vancouver to pick up 50 cases of pucks! The downside is dealing with customs when coming back into the US.

Looks like Gaudreau is also on the hybrid kick point bandwagon

Funny, the only Quad I have ever tried is the 0.5

I use Flare with a Quad 1 profile and love it. While the regular flare 10' is good for most I need the forward pitch and the longer radius in the middle/heel. We have done a ton profiles on Flare steel. I should note, on standard Flare (10' profile) I used a 1" ROH and after I profiled it I changed to a 1.5" ROH

I just want to bring this back full circle as this has gotten wayyyyyy off topic. All I was trying to understand was if the Edge Taper was being retired/replaced on all Warrior sticks because I had seen some professional players with early released sticks that were without it. That was all I was trying to understand. I got my answer. As far as I am concerned this thread can be locked and closed.

$50 is absolutely ridiculous...... I would understand if it was between 10 and 25, and I think 20 is more standard if anything. But 50 is just ludicrous

The promo material can be found online pretty easily, just look around on Google. I didn't post anything that was specifically shared with me directly in confidence, I wouldn't do such. In fact, this whole thread was started because I skated with some AHL players who had sticks that were wrapped showing sabre taper instead of the the qr edge taper. As Warrior mentioned, see below.

Your height/weight combination are a good example of why the previous "method" of calculating "half the flex for your weight" is a terrible method. For you it would suggest a 85-90 flex stick but with your height and how much you likely need to cut your sticks that would make them nearly impossible to load. I use a very short stick, for someone who is nearly 5' 11" and 180 lbs. I have always wanted to use a longer stick as my release with a longer stick is significantly more powerful and accurate. The downside is my stickhandling is a disaster with a longer stick though and I would rather be able to pass, stick handle, and feel confident on my stick as compared to having a harder shot.

Ive been using one of these so it allows me to mss with length on the fly. It does add a little weight though, which is expected. https://www.thehockeyshop.com/products/butt-end-blue-adjustick-comp At this point I think I have gone ful circle and am back at where I started. A short stick. I would rather give up some power when shooting to have better control and more leverage with a shorter stick. Ive already dropped to a flex point that I dont think can really go much lower. I am using a 68 flex, with a stick length of 56", but the low flex really makes puck battles along the boards, faceoffs, and receiving hard passes a pain in the butt. Also, taking a one-time shot many times results in a muffin of a shot if I don't hit the puck square on. I scored a goal today off a one-time shot and it was a muffin to. the max and it looked hilarious.... but it did go in 😉 I'll keep messing around and see if I can find the right combination.

I like to take my time when I profile. It's easy to remove a large amount of material in a short period of time and if you make a mistake you cannot add that material back 😉 For example, the first time I was doing STEP Black Steel (DLC) the coating has a tendency to slip when you are profiling in a ProSharp machine if you are applying a lot of pressure on the pendulum. I didn't notice this and was multitasking and the steel slipped. The whole profile was screwed up as a result. It was easy enough to fix but I took off more material than I would have liked had I not screwed up and took my time and paid attention. Leson learned.

Convection oven, 175-200F, 3 min. Do them one at a time. However, as Bauer said, you are much better off taking them to a local skate shop. Many shops wont even charge you to use the skate oven, if they don't charge you be nice and buy something while you're there, maybe a couple rolls of tape and a sharpen.

Appreciate the clarification. Thank you.

About 2 hours start to finish.

Which model of the Stallion? Thanks!Ill take a peek online and see if I can find a set. Thanks!

In the end I decided to just give up on playing this season with this group. I couldn't make it work no matter what I tried. I found someone to take my place and moved to skating on a different team in another division.

Yes, we can ask to be moved between teams, which I consider a trade. There has to be a justifiable reason though, such as a skill issue or not getting along with the other players. They really prefer to not move players unless there is no otehr alternative.

Yeah, it's pretty much a disaster. I had to re-profile them again for him. This is why you should always make sure whomever is doing the work has a clue of what they are doing, not that they just claim they are professionals. I am not going to shame the shop that did the profile, but, they promote themselves heavily on Instagram and Reddit and should be ashamed of delivering this type of quality to someone who paid top dollar. I fixed them and then applied the profile to the steel properly without charging him since this other store really screwed him over.

Seems legit to me:

I think I have tried every elbow pad on the market (exaggeration) and they all interfere, come into contact, with my glove cuff which drives me bonkers. I am trying to find something that is low profile, has decent protection, and is somewhat short so it doesn't extend into the glove cuff. I currently use Supreme 2S Pro gloves. Suggestions?

Have any pics of the finished product?

I asked my wife that and she told me if I messed with the pool I would need to buy a second home....... for me to live in. lol

Yes, it's the stiffest and lightest blade Bauer makes. X-Stiff: Bauer’s lightest blade with an extremely stiff foam core. Maximizes the pop of the puck (release speed) off the blade when shooting. Puck control may be more difficult. (ADV) Stiff: Lightweight, stiff foam core with a thin dampening layer. Gives a quick release with added features to help with puck feel. This core releases the puck quickly rather than maximizing energy into the puck. (FLyLite) Medium: A lightweight, stiff foam core with a thick dampening layer. #1 Bauer blade in the NHL. For versatile players that like to handle the puck and be able to shoot in any situation. (2N Pro) Soft: A mid-weight, softer blade core with thin dampening layer. Designed for players that focus on puck feel and stick-handling. Slightly heavier than stiff blades. X-Soft: Mid-weight, softer blade core designed to hold the puck to the blade to maximize the transfer of energy for harder shots. Contains a pressurized gel that fills cracks to prolong the life of the blade. Slightly heavier than stiff blades. (2S Pro)

Man, that would drive me nuts. There has to be more than a single guy in your area that sharpens though, right? The good news is with Flare you don't have to sharpen them often. You could probably get away with getting two sets and just sending them out. I would sharpen them for you for free. lol