BTSyndrome

I wanted a 74 'ish flex, but the choice was 70 or 77. What I did with my custom red line order was get the "Extended Height" (64") in a 70 flex and then cut them down to my normal length. Both sticks feel exactly the same, they feel like a 73-74 when compared to my: Sherwood TMP X2 75 flex & Warrior Alpha LXT 75 flex Just an idea.

Kydex - $16 Used this tape (Scotch-Mount Extreme Double Sided Mounting Tape) $23 but only used $10 worth of it. (This is on a size 11 skate) About $30 all in / $15 per skate since I did both the inside and outside. As far as comparing to ones you can buy, this is what I was trying to achieve... https://shotblockers.com/collections/frontpage/products/xt-pro-new?variant=39522491531329 ...but with lower coverage on the boot since that's where I get drilled the most for whatever reason. (14 years of soccer growing up makes it instinct to try and kick save every shot you can, even when you know you shouldn't, HAHA)

I used a fine tooth, scrolling, wood blade. It cut much smoother when the saw was at full power than trying to baby it. Sanded it with an orbital using 80grit. I skated in them last night at just a skills & drills... So I didn't get to take any shots off of them. The kydex and tape does add a hair extra weight but nothing that is noticeable while skating. The skates performed the same as before without the shot blockers, overall I'm very happy with it!

I finally got around to doing this to my older AS3 skates... Kydex: Amazon 2pack .080" thick 12"x12" Cut out with a jig saw, sanded all edges. Only used a heat gun. Double sided 3M heavy duty tape after cleaning both surfaces. Will skate in them tomorrow to see how I like they way they turned out.

Thanks for the heads up, been looking to get a backpack style for my first pond hockey tourney experience this February in Colorado. For $77.98 shipped... or half as much as the others, I figure I will give this a shot.

The "holder" on the AS-V Pro was not the problem, the fact the entire boot last was not centered when formed is what annoyed me. A thousand dollar pair of skates should not have inconsistencies like this. All three sets I have are StepSteel, first two shipped directly from CCM and most recent from PureHockey with the skates... all slide into the old holders so easily compared to the new ones.

My new AS-V's take a great amount of force (like standing full weight on it) to seat the blade far enough into the holder to get the screw pin to engage. AS3's have always been easy to do by hand.. (back skate) vs. AS-V front skate. Here was the AS-V PRO that got sent back...(to much $$$ for me to live with this) (Edited to add below: My new AS-V's... as they should be! ) On a different topic: Maybe someone can help answer this.... Does new packaged StepSteel come flat and discolored from heat treat? Almost rough looking I thought, I have forgot from the last set. Because that ones I was sent had a rough first part, then to me looks like a smooth grind pass across the whole blade (part with the point). The new lower grind is from my Sparx. I don't really care much since it saved using a bunch of passes on the wheel... It only took 4 passes with 1/2" to be done. Normally hear about it taking 10 or so when the steel is new. Oh well.

I can give a little insight. I have AS3's and the Step Steel goes into the xs holder with the screw knob turning all the way into the holder. (nothing sticks out of the back) I had in my possession new AS-V Pro's, on these the same blade goes in much, much tighter and the screw when tightened all the way still sticks out of the back of the holder just the littlest of bit. ((I returned them because of the boot not being molded uniformly) (not holder issue)). I hope the newer holder is how it should be from now on because I feel the holder on my AS3's is almost a little loose when tightened all the down. When walking to the ice it sounds like the blades have the slightest play (tick sound). I should have AS-V's (non Pro) coming tomorrow. Don't screw it up USPS!! I hope that the holder is perfectly straight... but is still a tighter fit like the pair I had to send back. I'm sure It will loosen up over time a little like my last pair did. A non technical test for holder straightness is to put the front of the blade into the holder (if the blade is straight to begin with) and see how close it comes to sliding straight down on the back. I saw a pair that with the front of the blade in... the back was off to one side by quite a bit. A straight edge will show this also with the blade installed. I will respond with results but it will be a couple weeks before I can get back on the ice. Booooooo

After using CCM 7092 pants for the last three years I wanted to go Prostock. With a ton of searching but little info, I'm leaving this here for others that might want to know. Retail CCM Tacks 7092's size LG fits 34"-38" The CCM HPTK pro-stock is Size LG 34"-36" & XL 36"-38" After a email with prostock hockey I went with a XL. And it fits exactly the same as my 7092's. These are supposed to be equivalent to Tacks AS1's (i think) ... there is slightly more (firmer) padding, but my favorite improvement is the belly pad size and attachment. Other than that they are pretty close. Retail AS1 aprox $200- Prostock 129.99. I am extremely happy!!! Only modifications I made to the new Prostock pants was sewing the belt to the left side so I could one hand pull tight after clipping the belt. I like like the 7092's belt better. Cutting excesses length of the belt and shorter drawstring for the front. I bought the LA Kings pant thinking the stripes on the side were white on the black pants based on the picture, but they are a slight grey color... that's what I get for being a Avalanche fan. lol

sorry to bump an older thread... I too play D on main team but also play up on invite pick-ups/ drop-in's. The way I fixed the same problem is having different stick curves for each position....(less to think about) ex: On D I use a True w/ MC curve to keep the puck lower on shots from the point. But when I play up as a winger I use an TC2.5 (much easier to hit top corners from in close with the added loft. But really it's just another reason to explain why I have close to a dozen sticks. lol

The pads are to protect me from myself... Skills and drills and the like I have Sherwood 5030's for just incase I take as tumble because of my own fault. (If you don't fall while learning, you're not trying hard enough) In games I wear Bauer Supreme S190's for added protection from stupid people.... plus as a D'man I tend to put myself in vulnerable positions so I don't have to rely on our goalie... lol

I have the RX3 elbows and absolutely love them over single hinged elbows like my Bauer S190's. I like them so much I'm looking to get the 3.1's as a second set. I really hope STX does there Black Friday deals again this year like last year. I also like my RX3 orange palm gloves, but they are slightly restrictive in wrist movement compared to my CCM FT390's.

Exchange if questionable. I'm new to carbon layup for sticks but the knowledge I've read the last decade on carbon fiber layup for bicycling frames, the sound could be from weather they removed the inner liner (paper or other material) from when pressurization in the mold. If left it might make a sound every time it is flexed. Have experienced once before, but really, I have no clue. In two yrs of playing I have only two instances, (on one= carbon fiber separated on the heal... True A4.5. The other was a first time use at a stick and puck... STX RX3 cracked at the shaft to blade transition, replaced under warranty) At some point I look forward to actually breaking a stick.... I have a dozen+ sticks and am always looking to pick up another one. lol 🙂

I have XC5, XC7, A2.2, A4.5, & A5.2 from past years... none stored in the heat though. I use Tacki-mac on top, but I find the grip coating wearing off on lower hand before the stick is dead. Is there a way to add grip back to a stick without it getting on/dirtying gloves? (other than storing it in the heat. lol)

I love all this banter about how a carbon fiber stick has to be made to perform a specific task to perform just right for its purpose - for way too much $$$ (It's a stick with a small blade at the end) If you really want to get into the depths of carbon fiber and the unlimited ways it could be laid up in a jig to perform a specific function for a "sport"... Jump over into the bicycle racing forums with carbon fiber frames supporting 230# riders, putting down 1600+ watts, going 50+ mph down a mountain road in nothing but spandex. Their carbon this, carbon that, talk is way more advanced than this. (My best was only 53.3 mph down White Oak Mountain outside of Ooltewah TN) I have True sticks: A2.2, A4.5, A5.2 & XC5, XC7 (I don't have the top A6.0 or XC9)... along with STX RX3 and other mid range Bauer... The lighter a stick gets the more hollow, ping-y (if that's a word), less feeling it gets to me. With my choice of all the sticks I have, my game stick is the XC5 and the back up is the 2.2 If I could get a do over, I'd have five XC5's w/ a few A2.2's... save me some $$$ and have sticks I'm % confident in! But, what do I know.