EBondo 233 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 If you have chassis currently, stop by Pure Hockey in Cherry Hill, NJ (right over any of the Philly bridges). I do most of the rivet work there. If you don't have chassis currently, it may be tough for you to get a hold of a set before then. I'm not 100% sure but I think the Hi-Lo patent expiring has something to do with not being able to find those chassis anymore. You can still find Labedas on some sites, but I know we're all out of roller chassis currently as a company. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EBondo 233 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
215BroadStBullies610 435 Report post Posted February 17, 2018 11 hours ago, EBondo said: Shoot me a PM if you have any questions. Thanks. Will do. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IPv6Freely 2092 Report post Posted February 24, 2018 My Mako conversion. Thanks to @JR Boucicaut and the new MSH Pro Shop! 5 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted February 25, 2018 Sweet looking! Very nice setup. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
215BroadStBullies610 435 Report post Posted February 26, 2018 On 2/24/2018 at 5:57 PM, IPv6Freely said: My Mako conversion. Thanks to @JR Boucicaut and the new MSH Pro Shop! The Mako setup looks clean! Miss the fit of the Mako... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
215BroadStBullies610 435 Report post Posted March 17, 2018 Thanks to @EBondo for making this happen! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cove 38 Report post Posted April 9, 2018 This may not be the place for this question but Im looking for an inline with a feet like a supreme but deeper, any suggestions? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Conversion_Kings 4 Report post Posted May 1, 2018 Converted a pair of grafs with labeda eviction humer chassis 3 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bikenurse 0 Report post Posted May 4, 2018 On 5/1/2018 at 4:01 PM, Conversion_Kings said: Converted a pair of grafs with labeda eviction humer chassis Those look awesome with the Eviction chassis. Where did you manage to find a set? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Conversion_Kings 4 Report post Posted May 6, 2018 On 5/4/2018 at 6:55 AM, bikenurse said: Those look awesome with the Eviction chassis. Where did you manage to find a set? Bought off a guy local to me, tough to find now days! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
e4hylam 2 Report post Posted May 20, 2018 Easton 1500 with sprung chassis. 2 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bunnyman666 445 Report post Posted May 26, 2018 Doing a Sprung on a goalie skate; just need smaller wheels as the gang at Sprung said it can be used on a goal skate. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bunnyman666 445 Report post Posted June 4, 2018 Cutting the blade off of an old school cowling so I will have a proper cowling on a goalie boot. This will go between the Sprung chassis and the boot. It takes a bit to get the cowling flat, but it is better to cut less than dig into the cowling. I ordered goalie wheels. I am also going to reveal a couple of twists in the cosmetics of this inline goalie skate. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bunnyman666 445 Report post Posted June 4, 2018 (edited) Half of the cowling is nearly flat from where the runner was cut off. This is a painstaking process getting the cowling nice and flat with a palm sander. The great thing is that there will still be a centre line on the cowling for reference to mount the Sprung chassis. https://imgur.com/gallery/Kop56Bw Edited June 4, 2018 by bunnyman666 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bolgar 9 Report post Posted June 6, 2018 You can use file tool to grind down roughly, then use sand paper to finish it off. That would be much faster Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bunnyman666 445 Report post Posted June 6, 2018 1 hour ago, Bolgar said: You can use file tool to grind down roughly, then use sand paper to finish it off. That would be much faster Yep- That’s what I am actually doing. I ended up grinding down those ribs a bit further before getting out the palm sander. Thanks for the suggestion. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Left Wing King 50 Report post Posted June 10, 2018 Quote I'll give these a try out properly tomorrow. How loose do people have the rocker? 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
215BroadStBullies610 435 Report post Posted June 10, 2018 7 hours ago, Left Wing King said: I'll give these a try out properly tomorrow. How loose do people have the rocker? I've loosen mine quite a bit just because the aggressive pitch the Graf 705 + Marsblade presents. Couple that with reality that I skate (incorrectly) on my toes, a looser rocker was a must for me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Left Wing King 50 Report post Posted June 10, 2018 5 minutes ago, 215BroadStBullies610 said: I've loosen mine quite a bit just because the aggressive pitch the Graf 705 + Marsblade presents. Couple that with reality that I skate (incorrectly) on my toes, a looser rocker was a must for me. Speaking to a mate who has a pair, he's kept his quite tight still. I'll try that until I'm used to them. Glad I went with the boot conversion though. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Joe-Anson 0 Report post Posted June 14, 2018 So, I have recently converted my Nexus 1Ns from last season to inline skates. Absolutely loving them so far, a much better fit than any of my previous inline skates. I was just wondering if any of you have looked into or have changed the color of your chassis (Standard metal chassis) wanting to make mine black or something but don't want flaking paint every time a puck hits them. Any help or ideas would be great, Cheers! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
filippo87 0 Report post Posted June 29, 2018 I made a wrong hole in the boots, how can I close it? I must.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
moejoe3117 1 Report post Posted June 29, 2018 I’ve had good luck with fiberglass resin 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greg25 0 Report post Posted August 23, 2018 (edited) I currently use my old vapor XXXX converted to marsblade for hockey in the park on concrete or asphalt and do the occasional city skate on it. But they are wearing out. The outers on the newer high end bauers look like they'd get shreded on the street or concrete. Are there any newer high end stiffer boots that have a tougher outer like the XXXX did? Edited August 23, 2018 by Greg25 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted August 23, 2018 I am a big proponent of sticking with skates that fit, so I'm mainly gonna talk about Bauer Vapor in your case. So the material your XXXX had was Tech-Mesh, which was on the top model until the x:60. Then it was available on the second-tier (x7.0) to the APX which already featured Curve composite. The completely different cut Nexus had Tech Mesh on the top skate for a little longer, but also made the switch to Curve. If you take a look at the Bauer Roller skates, you can see that they essentially added more wear guards / bumpers to their ice skates to make the suitable for outdoor play. Last season I took some Kydex (thermoformable plastic sheet), heated it up and glued it to the high wear areas of my APX skates - it held up nicely (especially in area where the toe-cap and the boot meet) and will most likely extend the life of the boot by quite a bit. Others on this forum have added multiple layers of 2 component epoxy as "bumpers" to the same area for wear protection. However, I only covered the regular high wear areas, so if I was to take a high speed spill / slide the boot might come into contact with asphalt in other areas as-well. If you are concerned about something like this (rather than usual wear and tear), you might consider covering the entire side of the boot with Kydex (kind of like a shotblocker would be mounted) or b) switching to a different boot. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites