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cougarscaptain87

Custom Skates / Ice to Inline Conversion

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what i did was this... after drilling the holes, i put a longer than much longer bolt thru the chassis into the hole, and then put the t-nut onto the bolt. Screw the bolt down, so that it 'locates' the t-nut, as well as drawing it into the hole. then remove the longer bolt, and then fix with the actual bolt. An extra step, but makes it easier since i have wierd hands that cannot contortionate to get way into the boot.

make sure you just lightly tighten the bolts, so that you can make minor adjustments. Once confirmed, then screw everything down tight.

okay, just so im getting this right, you basically are letting the bolt do all the work (sinking the t-nut teeth into the boot) by tightening the screw?

i think this is a great alternative to copper

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what i did was this... after drilling the holes, i put a longer than much longer bolt thru the chassis into the hole, and then put the t-nut onto the bolt. Screw the bolt down, so that it 'locates' the t-nut, as well as drawing it into the hole. then remove the longer bolt, and then fix with the actual bolt. An extra step, but makes it easier since i have wierd hands that cannot contortionate to get way into the boot.

make sure you just lightly tighten the bolts, so that you can make minor adjustments. Once confirmed, then screw everything down tight.

okay, just so im getting this right, you basically are letting the bolt do all the work (sinking the t-nut teeth into the boot) by tightening the screw?

i think this is a great alternative to copper

Cut those teeth off the t-nuts at their base. You don't want to be trying to drive those into the insole. The would stick out the bottom of some soles just by their length, and they can fracture the outsole. The sharp edges from cutting them off is plenty of grip.

Edited by Sprungster

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what i did was this... after drilling the holes, i put a longer than much longer bolt thru the chassis into the hole, and then put the t-nut onto the bolt. Screw the bolt down, so that it 'locates' the t-nut, as well as drawing it into the hole. then remove the longer bolt, and then fix with the actual bolt. An extra step, but makes it easier since i have wierd hands that cannot contortionate to get way into the boot.

make sure you just lightly tighten the bolts, so that you can make minor adjustments. Once confirmed, then screw everything down tight.

okay, just so im getting this right, you basically are letting the bolt do all the work (sinking the t-nut teeth into the boot) by tightening the screw?

i think this is a great alternative to copper

Cut those teeth off the t-nuts at their base. You don't want to be trying to drive those into the insole. The would stick out the bottom of some soles just by their length, and they can fracture the outsole. The sharp edges from cutting them off is plenty of grip.

Yup, you have to cut them off, or bend them off... the only reason i was using the screw to do the work was the hole i drilled was just the right size. My hands dont have the dexterity to force the tnuts into the holes, so I used teh screw to help me pull the tnuts into the holes.

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what i did was this... after drilling the holes, i put a longer than much longer bolt thru the chassis into the hole, and then put the t-nut onto the bolt. Screw the bolt down, so that it 'locates' the t-nut, as well as drawing it into the hole. then remove the longer bolt, and then fix with the actual bolt. An extra step, but makes it easier since i have wierd hands that cannot contortionate to get way into the boot.

make sure you just lightly tighten the bolts, so that you can make minor adjustments. Once confirmed, then screw everything down tight.

okay, just so im getting this right, you basically are letting the bolt do all the work (sinking the t-nut teeth into the boot) by tightening the screw?

i think this is a great alternative to copper

Cut those teeth off the t-nuts at their base. You don't want to be trying to drive those into the insole. The would stick out the bottom of some soles just by their length, and they can fracture the outsole. The sharp edges from cutting them off is plenty of grip.

Yup, you have to cut them off, or bend them off... the only reason i was using the screw to do the work was the hole i drilled was just the right size. My hands dont have the dexterity to force the tnuts into the holes, so I used teh screw to help me pull the tnuts into the holes.

perfect-thanks sprungster and fatwabbit

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Yes they are the new white 9k's...as for the white pump I just cut out some white soft hockey tape and stuck them on. You just need to make the circle a little bit bigger then the green area and stick it on and push in the pump and put the excess tape under..oh yes you also have to put a pin hole through the tape to match the hole of the pump otherwise wont work properly.

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Yes I still have the 2007 9k SE's they are mounted on hummer frames. As for the fit of the boot the new ones fit a little tighter in both the heel and toe box areas which I like a lot better don't have to use the pump at all. And the skate overall with the MG frame is alot lighter now, almost as light as my one95's.

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December-2008024.jpg

These are my first pair of new skates. I had posted earlier about them being too loose but I put some waxed laces on and they tightened right up. Still kind of wish I had got some RBK's since i like more padding but these are working out fine. I love the Hum'er chassis'. I had been skating on hi los though so the transition has been a little rough.

Probably going to paint the chassis' black and I've currently got black laces in.

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Hey guys, just wanted to know if anyone can confirm that Mission Fuel boots (Specifically 90AG's) are easily converted to an inline setup? I came across a few posts in my search which would indicate otherwise so any help would be appreciated.

Cheers

Dane

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This may have been answered on here before but I couldn't find anything.

To everyone who does their own conversions, how do you go about removing the rivets on your skates?

Thanks guys

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Go to the hardware store and get a pin punch. A small one 1.5mm should do the trick, but make sure you hit it square on the head otherwise you might bend the tip. Dont use some small screwdrivers, as they break really easily (yea yea... dumb).

I just bought a carpenter's plier the other day. Easy to remove the rivets when you have hit it out a little.

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Can you guys post step by step pics the next time you do conversions with t-nuts and bolts please. I'm a visual learner and I'm paranoid about messing up my skates. Yeah it's cause I'm cheap, also it's nice to learn something that I'll use for a lifetime.

Thanks!

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I found this forum, and more specifically this thread doing some research for gear. Figured I would post my skates. I believe I built them about 8 years ago. I really should look into a new set but these things still rock. Not sure about the new wheels I just bought. Guess I will give them a few games and see how they do, my old ones were about 20 games past needing replacement, lol.

IMG_0259.jpg

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I love the green E-Frames chassis. Before I switched to Sprungs my E-Frames were my favorite set-up. I have the silver version and the black Sherwwod E-Frames and I have seen the gold version they made for Easton but those are really cool. Nice Skates and welcome.

Rick

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I still have a pair of 552 Tacks with the black Sherwood/Redstar E-Frames. The thing I like about them over other hi/lo set-ups is how close to the surface you ride in a pretty neutral pitch. A nicely built and attractive frame.

Rick

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