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Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

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team USA 22

Blacking out sticks

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Spray paint with a few light coats. I recently repainted my Synergy II blade and Synthesis silver. Will post pics later.

Also on a related note... what is the best way to spray over the logos on blades, I've found in some cases that the paint doesn't stick as well to the logos as it does to the rest of the blade.

Update: The Photos (before on the left, after on the right)

synthesis_front.jpg

synthesis_back.jpg

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Sand off the graphics on wood. As for composites, I've never painted one and would be of no help. I imagine you could possibly do the same thing.

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Scuff it with 220 grit sandpaper first. If composite, wipe it with some lacquer thinner with cheese cloth after sanding and allow to completely dry. Then paint.

Haven't done any woodies, but I'm sure it's the same process.

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Mack, what do you use for clear coat?

Usually whatever can I can find first when I get paint, which is usually Krylon.

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So the spray paint doesn't weaken the blade at all??

No. It's just paint.

if you tourch the paint like the player in TBLfans avastar than yes you would weaken the blade

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is painting the blade worth while or a waste of time? what i mean is like will the paint chip off easily or come off after a games use?

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i would say it depends on what you want the stick to feel like - use bigger grit if you want the stick to feel like sandpaper or smaller grit if you want the stick to come out somewhat smooth.

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i would say it depends on what you want the stick to feel like - use bigger grit if you want the stick to feel like sandpaper or smaller grit if you want the stick to come out somewhat smooth.

To be a little more precise, "bigger grit" = low/coarse grit, something in the 100-300 grit range, it's pretty rough stuff and will leave a real rough finish on the shaft. "Smaller grit" = higher/finer grit, something 500-900 grit, 900 and up would be super fine and is usually for wetsanding and for a hockey stick wouldn't be necessary (it's for when you're polishing metal or making things smooth as glass).

If it were me I'd start with something around 500 grit and see how it does, it's better to start higher and work your way down to something rougher if the higher grit isn't taking enough off. A sanding block makes life easier as does light and even pressure (let the paper do the work). After that clean it up w/ a tack rag and then prep by wiping it down w/ some rubbing alcohol (or actual paint prep, but who's actually got that lying around). As far as the actual painting, remember to keep the coats light and don't get too close, build up the coverage in several light thin coats and allow ample time to dry (follow directions on paint can).

To be honest I've never put that much effort into painting a stick/blade, last time I did it was when I still used wood sticks so it's been a while and with wood there was less prep involved. On the other hand, I have been known to spray paint a lot of parts for cars with excellent results (such as my BBS wheels which pass for being powdercoated... it's all in the prep and taking your time with the paitning).

Good luck.

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