Jump to content
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble
Slate Blackcurrant Watermelon Strawberry Orange Banana Apple Emerald Chocolate Marble

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

dsjunior1388

Graf Steel

Recommended Posts

Last week I noticed some very small dings and holes in my steel. I had the guy at the pro shop cross grind the steel on both and sharpen them, and they were gone. I skated on them once, and the dings are back. Can anyone tell me why this is happening, or what I can do to prevent it?

Blade.jpg

I've been planning on replacing the Cobras with Tuuks for a long time but never got around to getting it done. I have decided I will definitely be getting it done now, but won't be able to until at least January. Any recommendations on how I can preserve these until I can get them changed?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The steel is pitting out. CCM had a batch of steel a few years ago where almost every pair did that. Make sure you aren't storing them in soakers and they are getting wiped off after each skate. You should probably just replace them if it keeps happening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
The steel is pitting out. CCM had a batch of steel a few years ago where almost every pair did that. Make sure you aren't storing them in soakers and they are getting wiped off after each skate. You should probably just replace them if it keeps happening.

I do wipe them down with a chamois after every skate, but then I put them in soakers. Is that making it worse?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes, the steel is pitting because there is still going to be moisture after the blades warm up.

Best bet is to dry them off, let them warm up overnight, wipe them off then put the soakers on if you absolutely need to.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Graf steel has been the worst for that over the years. Mine would start to pit in the time it took to put my bag in the car, have a beer with the boys and drive home.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So I'm now putting Tuuks on my grafs to replace the graf steel and holders, something I've wanted to do for a while for a variety of reasons.

I was told by a pro shop worker that the soakers caused the problem. Obviously I don't want it to happen when I get the new steel, so what should I do. I always dry my skates immediately after I skate and pull the footbeds out.

So should I use soakers? I always figured they were designed to absorb any remaining moisture, but I can see how it would cause problems. I also figured the soakers were supposed to prevent your skates from cutting stuff in your bag, or scratching a visor, things like that. So should I use soakers, and is there anything else I can do to prevent the problem?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

After you get off the ice, unlace your skates, pull your footbeds out, dry your skates, put the soakers on and toss 'em in your bag (the first two things won't necessarily help with your pitting problem, but will benefit your boots/rivets).

When you get home, pull your skates out of your bag, take the soakers off, wipe the steel down real well again and leave them somewhere to air out. Do NOT leave your skates in the soakers for an extended period of time after playing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
After you get off the ice, unlace your skates, pull your footbeds out, dry your skates, put the soakers on and toss 'em in your bag (the first two things won't necessarily help with your pitting problem, but will benefit your boots/rivets).

When you get home, pull your skates out of your bag, take the soakers off, wipe the steel down real well again and leave them somewhere to air out. Do NOT leave your skates in the soakers for an extended period of time after playing.

Dead-on. The only other thing I do is put them in front of a fan along with my pants, shins, shoulders, elbows, gloves, and helmet. Lightly hit all that stuff including insoles with Febreze too before they go in front of the fan.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had my 709's for 2 years, never had a problem with the steel. Towel dried them & then put the soakers on. All my equipment gets a light spray of Febreze and sits by a fan overnight. In fact, i never took the soakers off - will change that.

Why change the holders? Try stepsteel before changing out the holders.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Had my 709's for 2 years, never had a problem with the steel. Towel dried them & then put the soakers on. All my equipment gets a light spray of Febreze and sits by a fan overnight. In fact, i never took the soakers off - will change that.

Why change the holders? Try stepsteel before changing out the holders.

I'm also changing the holders becuase I would prefer the Tuuk pitch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Run your blades and mounts under HOT water to bring them up to room temperature and wipe them dry... do the rest of the routine with your laces and footbeds. Make sure any water leaking out of the cracks and crevices is wiped off - THEN put the DRY soakers on. I never considered a soaker anything more that a cover to protect my edges. Make sure the blades are WARM and DRY before you put them on and you should minimize the problem.

Edited to add that I've followed this procedure for about 30 years (ever since the first soakers hit the market around 1980. I have never had an issue with rusted or pitted blades and never take my soakers off unless I'm skating or sharpening.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Had my 709's for 2 years, never had a problem with the steel. Towel dried them & then put the soakers on. All my equipment gets a light spray of Febreze and sits by a fan overnight. In fact, i never took the soakers off - will change that.

Why change the holders? Try stepsteel before changing out the holders.

Been doing that with all my skates and never had any probles whatsoever. I wipe them down after the game and put the soakers on, put the skates on a shelf when I get home then forget about them till next game. No rust no nothing on the steel and my sharpenings last me usually around 3 games at a hour and a half per games. Maybe the fact that my soakers have holes has something to do with it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

If it is only surface rust, some extra fine steel wool (almost soft to the touch) will do the trick. Just tried it on my 3 year old 705's that had some surface pitting, and they are now rust-free.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have Ultra G5's and have never had a problem. I dry them and put the soakers on. Quite honestly, I always thought they held an edge better than Tuuks (and I've had skates with LS2's, Custom+, etc.). Maybe I just got lucky.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Is Graf getting their steel from Turkish gun manufacturers now? I skate on Graf and swapped the runners for STEP. For whatever reason I went from a 1/2 hollow to 5/8 after the transition....maybe thickness/hardness but I like them a lot better. Really does hold an edge longer.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haven't had a problem with my Graf steel...maybe nicks a little easier but not too bad. Would like to switch to tuuk ls2s but mostly for the pitch....probably just going to have them profiled for now.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Curious to ask if it is happening more frequently now more than in the past. Most steel products today are recycled (low end knives for example), and the process leads itself to variances in the quality of the steel.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×
×
  • Create New...