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gemini8026

maximizing life of OPC stick.....

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Hey guys.

Im doing some searching in threads, but would love a thread to help a guy get the best longevity from his composite stick.

For many years, I have used ST's. They last, Im a beer leaguer who plays 2-3x a week. (ASHL B and C division for) Ive got a fairly decent shot I would like to think. I've never had issues with my ST's lasting a long time (except for the time a guy stepped on my blade, but nothing will save that)

Anyhow, Ive had the "misfortune" of getting a real slick deal on some S19's. I love the S19's feel and lightness compared to my ST. While not a HUGE different, there IS a difference. Anyhow, the S19 isnt as durable as the ST, however I am curious if anyone can offer any tips or materials I can protect my shaft/blade with.

I'll tell you right now that I lightly tape all of my shafts around the joint area, that seems to help with knicks and such.

Any special wraps that dont affect the weight or help get more life out of our high performance sticks? I dont mind sacrificing some weight for extra life.... Thanks for any help!

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Some obvious tips, don't slam it on the ice, don't slam it over the bench/cross bar and don't unnecessarily flex it unless you're actually using it on the ice. I've broken to many sticks just playing around with them in the house it's ridiculous.

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Make sure you tape the stick properly and not tape it for just style, which will ruin the blade. Just don't smash it on the ice or on the bench or crossbar. Don't flex it when your not playing I've done that.

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This may not seem like much but it's done wonders to maximize blade life and prevent chip/nicks in my blades since I started doing it. Put a piece of tape over the bottom/toe/top of the blade where you intend to tape (I tape full heel to over the toe) and razor blade off the excess then tape it up like normal. Here's how I start it then tape regularly from there.

IMG_1418.jpg

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Make sure you tape the stick properly and not tape it for just style, which will ruin the blade. Just don't smash it on the ice or on the bench or crossbar. Don't flex it when your not playing I've done that.

What exactly is the difference between taping it "properly" and "for style"?

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I start my tape job by running a strip of tape along the bottom edge, up over the toe and onto the top of the blade. I cover chips and any areas that look like they might fray/start to get weak with epoxy.

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What exactly is the difference between taping it "properly" and "for style"?

"For style" would be how Ovi tapes his stick. He can get away with it because he gets free sticks, but if you're paying hundreds for a stick, you want to go heel > toe (or toe > heel, whatever floats your boat).

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This may not seem like much but it's done wonders to maximize blade life and prevent chip/nicks in my blades since I started doing it. Put a piece of tape over the bottom/toe/top of the blade where you intend to tape (I tape full heel to over the toe) and razor blade off the excess then tape it up like normal. Here's how I start it then tape regularly from there.

IMG_1418.jpg

That looks very clean...is that one piece of tape or a few?

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Even better, use duct tape around the edges of the blade. Split a standard 2.5 inch wide roll in half and use the now smaller strip to wrap from bottom heel, around toe, and back to top heel. The duct tape has less padding than cloth tape and is water proof as well, doing wonders to help preserve stick blade life.

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I put a strip of clear tape on the lower 1/3 of the shaft, top and bottom. It helps with the minor slashes.

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"For style" would be how Ovi tapes his stick. He can get away with it because he gets free sticks, but if you're paying hundreds for a stick, you want to go heel > toe (or toe > heel, whatever floats your boat).

I wouldn't say it's necessarily for style, for example I've always taped my blades at about 3/4, leaving the heel bare, because I pull the puck in and release off the toe but prefer the direct contact of puck to blade when I stick handle.

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I wouldn't say it's necessarily for style, for example I've always taped my blades at about 3/4, leaving the heel bare, because I pull the puck in and release off the toe but prefer the direct contact of puck to blade when I stick handle.

Ya but just if someone has durability issues with there blade.

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The most important thing in maintaining the life of your stick is to treat it with respect, this just doesn't mean not smashing it against boards posts ect. but avoid overworking your sticks whenever possible don't have a hour long slapped/ one timer practice no matter how much you want to show off your tremendous strength. The first few times you should avoid anything too hard as well in order to break in your fibres for a bit. I've also snapped a few twigs simply because it's too cold and they freeze into a solid piece and snap fairly easily. Overall I recommend a little bit of taking care/ babying and possibly buying a stick bag for extra protection when not playing if you want them to last.

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A carbon stick has virtually zero friction with the ice so tape is really not needed to protect from rubbing, however if you spend a lot of time digging against the boards, some tape on the toe will help reduce wear. If you are a banger or have poor technique, tape on the bottom will provide some cushioning, but honestly, repairing all the sticks I do and seeing(and having to struggle at cutting off) all the various tape jobs, I would say the tape doesn't do much.

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^^ agreed. I do find (from a goaltending perspective) that tape takes a little of the ping/sting out of shots that catch the paddle or blade flat with a composite stick. (Interestingly, I'm just about to test the new Warrior Ritual without any tape for exactly this reason.) I don't know if the effect would be as pronounced on a player stick, but maybe with slap-passes... It seems to me that apart from that little bit of vibration dampening, tape on a composite stick is essentially like the skin over the tibia: there to take the scraps and cuts so the bone doesn't get chipped, since it's easier to heal skin and replace tape than fix bone or composite.

Even better, use duct tape around the edges of the blade. Split a standard 2.5 inch wide roll in half and use the now smaller strip to wrap from bottom heel, around toe, and back to top heel. The duct tape has less padding than cloth tape and is water proof as well, doing wonders to help preserve stick blade life.

Ah, the Possum Lodge tape-job. :laugh: Electrical tape works well, too. It's a little less adhesive, and you have to be careful to apply it smoothly, but it doesn't have the fibrous texture of duct tape, so it wears a little better. An electrical tape runner under a full cloth sock is how I keep all my TPS woodies happy. That, and adding a second wear-strip of cloth tape around the perimeter of the blade, and a ton of Sno-Seal.

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