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Krev

Easton Mako Skates

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I'm closing in on 20 or so hours of ice time on my Mako IIs. Still love them as much as when I first got them, perhaps even more so as the arch pain I had initially is long gone. Only two minor issues. I get some loss of feeling in my right foot around the baby toe area. No pain but I guess the boot is snug in the wrong spot and cutting off circulation. And the other is the holder seems to be coming loose again. I had the rivets redone after the first few skates as it was very loose (disturbingly so). Anyone tried using screws and T-nuts similar to Graf's system? If this loosening is going to be a recurring issue I wouldn't mind going that route if only to enable me to re-tighten myself and avoid going back to the shop to have them do it. The heel seems fine, it's just around the toe where it's loosening it seems. So maybe a couple of screws per skate right at the toe.

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Numbness is never a good sign. Get that area punched out or you may end up with foot problems later down the road.

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Quick two questions for you guys. Since my mako crapped out on me, i ordered myself another pair of mako 1s, but the heating instructions paper was not inside the box. Was it 10min for easton oven and 6 min non easton oven, at 200f?

Also, since it is almost impossible for easton to make a pair without defects, my holders are installed in a weird way. One is too far back , the other is too far in the front, theres maybe 1cm difference between both skates. Is it something to be concerned of, or its nothing that my body cant adjust to?

There's a video on Youtube somewhere. I'm on my phone and can't link it. But search for "Mako Fitting Instructions".

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Looking at the Graf screws that you can buy on HockeyMonkey, it looks like they have some flanges on them. I understand that they would be necessary to hold the nut in place but does anyone know if the flanges will "self cut" on non-Graf skates) as you tighten the screws. Or do you somehow have to cut slots? Also... once you use the screws have you trashed the skates as far as opening up the holes too much to ever go back to rivets? Thanks.

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This may be a difficult question to answer but I figure why not ask.

I'm trying to figure out if these skates will work for my feet and If they will what size should work. The only skate I have to reference off of is my alkali shifts in a 9.5 d. The only ice skate I own is a 11ee mission xp 90. Needless to say they fit terribly and only used them for public skates. I know they are not the same but the alkali is very moldable and probably the best skate I have worn so far And was hoping the mako would be similar.

If it matters my most common shoe size is 10.5

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I'm having a hard time finding them locally. I still have a couple places to check. I was just wondering if you had any ideas as to the size I'd shoot for.

Edited by crispy92

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I just emailed Scott Van Horne about the MLX screws. He said I would have to drill out my boot to make the holes bigger to accommodate the larger T-Nuts. That sounds like a little more work than I want to do and a little too permanent a change for me to do to my skates. He also said that I would have to order 10000 at a time. The text on that Pro-Filer link above says that their solution can be done one lost rivet at a time and on the road (which would imply to me that you don't have to drill). I wish they provided more info on their page about it (or at least some pictures of the nut/screw). Can anyone provide any details on that kit?

Edited by AfftonDad

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He said I would have to drill out my boot to make the holes bigger to accommodate the larger T-Nuts. That sounds like a little more work than I want to do and a little too permanent a change for me to do to my skates. He also said that I would have to order 10000 at a time.

Not true. Here are MLX screws. Pan Head Torx, 8-32 1/4" are what I use. T nuts and washers as well

http://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screws/=uulzgh

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I haven't had any rivet issues with my Makos but my VHs are constantly coming loose. My LHS said that since the sole is so thin and carbon it is hard for the rivet to bite in. They don't carry the ideal size rivet as well and with a manual riveter it is harder to get a good bite. He suggested considering putting copper in on all or majority of rivets.

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ie McMaster

Torx or Phillips?

Steel, stainless or titanium?

Yes what tee nuts?

What size to use if just replacing rivets on Bauer Boot w/ Tuuk?

Edited by SirJW

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So you are saying no drilling required? My (current) skates are actually VHs. Perhaps they have different size holes? I've already had several replaced at the LHS and they look like the same rivets.

I have access to a riveter, so I use the copper rivet anvil with the rivet remover jig to seat the T nut in place (tough to describe via text). It's a tight fit, so it helps hold the nut in place while tightening. Never had to redrill a hole.

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I have access to a riveter, so I use the copper rivet anvil with the rivet remover jig to seat the T nut in place (tough to describe via text). It's a tight fit, so it helps hold the nut in place while tightening. Never had to redrill a hole.

Do you use the t-nuts with the fangs or is it purely a friction fit? I'm a little concerned that the fanged ones would start tearing up the boot over time.

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I have access to a riveter, so I use the copper rivet anvil with the rivet remover jig to seat the T nut in place (tough to describe via text). It's a tight fit, so it helps hold the nut in place while tightening. Never had to redrill a hole.

What size t-nuts and washers?

If you're using dimpled, not fanged... are you talking about weld nuts? If so... 90607A100

Screws: http://www.mcmaster.com/#96710a312/=uup9mv

Nuts: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90607a100/=uup9f0

Washers: http://www.mcmaster.com/#92141a009/=uupc9e

Edited by OptimusReim

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My Mako's are waiting at home and i'm stuck at work for another hour! :|

Got to try on a pair of the mako M8's though and they fit like a glove. Looking forward to trying on the mako's :)

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