Easton Mako Skates

[Larry54 243]

I've done it to mount Sprung chassis on 2009 RBK 5K skates because Sprung recommended doing it that way, and when winter came around I put the E-Pro ice holders back on also using this T-Nut method. I had to slightly enlarge the old rivet holes to take the 6-32 T-nuts. I've also mounted Sprungs on Flexlite18 skates with this method.

[gosinger 122]

Did you (or anyone else for that matter) actually do this? I want to pursue this option, but would like to hear from those who have had success, or lack thereof.

Not on the Makos, but plenty of ice-to-inline conversions on here were done this way (cut of prongs from T-nuts). Mine are still all going strong; don't cut too much off (the prong won't grab) or you'll have trouble removing the screws at a later time.

[smcgreg 81]

Not on the Makos, but plenty of ice-to-inline conversions on here were done this way (cut of prongs from T-nuts). Mine are still all going strong; don't cut too much off (the prong won't grab) or you'll have trouble removing the screws at a later time.

Thanks to you and Larry54. Guess I'll give it a shot.

[CTB 32]

Question for those that have worn Bunga pads, do they go on the outside or inside of your sock?

[Haggerty 144]

Question for those that have worn Bunga pads, do they go on the outside or inside of your sock?

I use mine inside my sock

[bcoutdoor 0]

I haven't skated on a pair of the M8's, but I did try them on before buying my Mako 1's to make sure size would be the same.

The only difference I could really tell is the toebox had a slightly softer material in there compared to the Mako 1's and other than that, everything is the same.

I bought a pair of M8 a few months ago, having a weird foot I almost require custom boots (narrow heal,wide foot) Coming from my Bauer's that gave my supreme lace bite.

It took a few skates. I changed the profile to 11 ft and 7/16 . These skates are awesome, turning, stopping everything. The shop gave my money back on the Bauer's, so the pain of $$$ was less, just had to pay the difference.

It would be tough to go back now.

Edited January 8, 2015 by bcoutdoor

[RoenickFan 0]

Hi everyone,

I'm hoping that someone can provide me with some insight as to what direction I should go? Pretty much just resigned to men's league for the rests of my days skating. I'm ready to buy what I'm thinking will be the last skates I ever buy, especially at current price points. As of this point in time, I'm between buying the Mako 2 or Bauer MX3's. Here's my dilemma, my favorite skates of all time are the Micron 10-90 Megas. I'm not sure wht it is, but it seems these skates almost forced you to skate properly. I feel that simple in terms of skating that I played my best hockey wearing that boot. Since the demise of Micron I've pretty much been in Bauer Supremes. They have always fit well, but I've always felt that my skating has been slightly off. I switched to Graf G35s about 4 years ago and I love the pitch, how the boot is designed, etc, but they do not fit me properly. The front part of my foot is squeezed, and the large ball towards the back of my big toe on the side just gets rubbed raw. Developed a big corn on both feet. Can't wear the skates without a corn cushion period. I've never loved a skat so much that fit so terribly. The kid who sold them to me swore that it was a 3d moldable boot, it's not.

Anyway, do I go for tried and true fit in Bauers, but what I consider to be just slightly off balance (for me) & performance in skating? Or do I give the Mako 2 a shot in what I hope is an innovative skate, hopefully comparable to Micron Megas or Daoust?

The main hangup I have is everything I've ever owned by Easton usually breaks down way too fast. I'd hate to spend roughly $800 and then regret it 6 - 12 months later!

[JaniV 9]

Buy Custom Skates From VH hockey, they make it for your feet. If it doesent fit, they fix it free of charge.

[syinx 139]

>> Removed Post.

Edited January 24, 2015 by syinx

[gogovs 10]

I am currently in Mako and Easton is sending me Mako 2 as a warranty replacement. The glitches the Mako had should be fixed in Mako 2. I would say if Mako fits you well go with Mako. Don't get discouraged if you have problems to put them on, they are really tight fit and should be heat molded. There is no other skate that will wrap your foot like the Mako unless you go custom like VH footwear. I had Reebok Ribcor and I tried Bauer Vapor x100 and those skates are too stiff for me and were restricting natural ankle movement.

[Caihlen 67]

Guys, need some advice. I wear a 9D in Reebok, and I'm trying to upgrade. I was wondering if anyone knew how that 9d would translate to the original Mako?

Thanks....

[salayc 8]

It would have been a 9EE when I tried them on.

The length was similar, Reebok were much wider. If I had it to do over again I would have bought Mako 1 as a D and then stretched them to fit. (I think that was their original intent.) but I bought Mako's as an EE. If you're a Reebok D then you're a Mako EE - assuming you're wearing a modern Reebok skate.

The Mako IIs are much truer in width. i.e. a Mako II 9D is closer to everyone else's 9D when trying on. I went from Mako 1 EE width to Mako II D and the Mako II were still a little wider than my Mako 1.

[sparky1 29]

Guys, need some advice. I wear a 9D in Reebok, and I'm trying to upgrade. I was wondering if anyone knew how that 9d would translate to the original Mako?

Thanks....

My old reebok's in 10d are similar in size compared to the 10d makos I have now.

You should be fine going with the same size in mako's

[IPv6Freely 2092]

Yea, you'll be fine wearing the same size most likely.

[Caihlen 67]

Thanks everyone...

Kc

[sparky1 29]

Well, I ordered the tee-nut hardware in 6/32" like people were recommending from mcmaster.

Since my holder broke & easton is sending me a new pair of holders, this will be a good test to see if those will work.

Worst case scenario i'll just have them re-riveted back in place

[sparky1 29]

http://imgur.com/a/cJIt2

Spent ~3hrs cutting those little fangs off the tee bolts and making sure the runner lines up perfectly.

I just need to skate on them, make sure everything feels good, then undo the bolts & put on some blue loctite on all of them.

edit:

here is a parts list of everything that I used.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90975a007/=vnyka0

http://www.mcmaster.com/#96710a255/=vnykdh

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90107a101/=vnykit

My current washers are a bit too big, so I am going to swap them out with the ones I linked above.

You will need the following tools:

A t15 torx screw driver/key

End Nippers, preferably ones with large comfortable handles. The small ones I had were HORRIBLE

a round file or drill bit with appropriate size if you need to drill out the holes.

Edited January 28, 2015 by sparky1

[smcgreg 81]

http://imgur.com/a/cJIt2

Spent ~3hrs cutting those little fangs off the tee bolts and making sure the runner lines up perfectly.

I just need to skate on them, make sure everything feels good, then undo the bolts & put on some blue loctite on all of them.

edit:

here is a parts list of everything that I used.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90975a007/=vnyka0

http://www.mcmaster.com/#96710a255/=vnykdh

http://www.mcmaster.com/#90107a101/=vnykit

My current washers are a bit too big, so I am going to swap them out with the ones I linked above.

You will need the following tools:

A t15 torx screw driver/key

End Nippers, preferably ones with large comfortable handles. The small ones I had were HORRIBLE

a round file or drill bit with appropriate size if you need to drill out the holes.

3 hr?? OK, maybe you were a bit more particular about it than I was. It took me maybe 20 min, but then again, I only did 8 per skate. The equipment guy at TH I work with on these things figure 4 each per tower was good enough for Graf, so, it should work if secured properly. Now that I've been skating on them a couple weeks and am confident in the way I have things, I will probably add more bolts as redundant safety mechanism.

If I may ask, why did you go the t-bolt route? Just to address the loose rivet issue?

[sparky1 29]

3 hr?? OK, maybe you were a bit more particular about it than I was. It took me maybe 20 min, but then again, I only did 8 per skate. The equipment guy at TH I work with on these things figure 4 each per tower was good enough for Graf, so, it should work if secured properly. Now that I've been skating on them a couple weeks and am confident in the way I have things, I will probably add more bolts as redundant safety mechanism.

If I may ask, why did you go the t-bolt route? Just to address the loose rivet issue?

My blade holder broke on my right skate, so I figured while I had it off I should just replace all of them with t-bolts for ease of repair in the future.

also, it took me ~2-2.5hrs for my skate that I got a replacement holder for, the holes didn't quite line up for some reason on one of the holder's holes in the back, so I filed a bit of the plastic out to make it line up with the protruding t-bolt. It was off by maybe 0.01" or so

Also, if the CXN holders keep breaking on me, I'm just going to replace them with Tuuk Lightspeed edge holders and be done with it.

Edited January 28, 2015 by sparky1

[smcgreg 81]

My blade holder broke on my right skate, so I figured while I had it off I should just replace all of them with t-bolts for ease of repair in the future.

also, it took me ~2-2.5hrs for my skate that I got a replacement holder for, the holes didn't quite line up for some reason on one of the holder's holes in the back, so I filed a bit of the plastic out to make it line up with the protruding t-bolt. It was off by maybe 0.01" or so

Also, if the CXN holders keep breaking on me, I'm just going to replace them with Tuuk Lightspeed edge holders and be done with it.

Ahh.. got it. I did it to faclititate adding and removing shims. Works quite nicely.

[sparky1 29]

Ahh.. got it. I did it to faclititate adding and removing shims. Works quite nicely.

Would you happen to know what kind of shim I would need to make the LS edge holder be the same height/angle as the CXN's by chance? I like the forward angle of the CXN's, I just don't like their durability so far. Maybe I just had a bad pair or something like that.

[smcgreg 81]

Would you happen to know what kind of shim I would need to make the LS edge holder be the same height/angle as the CXN's by chance? I like the forward angle of the CXN's, I just don't like their durability so far. Maybe I just had a bad pair or something like that.

The holder alone on the Makos is a +2, I believe. I think (emphasis added for clarity) the LS is neutral. So, you would probably need 2/32 or 1/16. Maybe one of the profiler gurus can chime in, but that would be my guess.

[sparky1 29]

The holder alone on the Makos is a +2, I believe. I think (emphasis added for clarity) the LS is neutral. So, you would probably need 2/32 or 1/16. Maybe one of the profiler gurus can chime in, but that would be my guess.

Gotchya,

I've got a friend that owns a pair of supreme 170's, so I was going to just measure the height of both towers and the length of it with the blade too to see what kind of shims I would need to add.

[AfftonDad 88]

Would you happen to know what kind of shim I would need to make the LS edge holder be the same height/angle as the CXN's by chance? I like the forward angle of the CXN's, I just don't like their durability so far. Maybe I just had a bad pair or something like that.

I think we have come to a consensus around here that the Mako pitch is about +3 (as set on profiling equipment... 3/32nds). Some of that is from the holder and some of that is from the blade (a guy who "measured" it for me by using the profiling equipment puts it at around +1.5 contribution from the blade). The profiling equipment rotates the skate about (around) the CENTER point of the skate uniformly regardless of the size of the skate (the distance of the "actuator" of the rotation from the center of the skate does not vary from skate to skate). So if the Edge holder/blade combination is neutral (I have no idea if this is the case) you would need to have a profiler put a +3 on your edge holder blades. A heel shim on the other hand rotates the skate about the TOE of the skate from the heel. Not only does this distance depend on the size of the skate, assuming that you only have a contact point at the front set of rivets and the rear set of rivets, the distance would be AT LEAST twice that of the profiling equipment. Now this is probably an invalid assumption, because all of the rivets are in fact in contact (probably the boot bends a little and the holder bends a little) so I don't know what that does to the math. I would think that a good starting point (assuming that the edge holder/blade is neutral) would be to use a shim around 3/32nds. If it didn't feel like you were quite there, add a little more. If you have reason to believe that the edge holder/blade is not neutral and already has a bit of forward pitch, maybe start with 2/32nds and go up from there. Since you now have tee nuts instead of rivets, you are in an ideal position to exercise trial and error. I have never profiled a pair of skates or used shims in my life though... so I could be all wet.

BTW, I have had CXN holders for two or three years and I haven't cracked one yet playing 3 or 4 nights a week and blocking a lot of shots.

[sparky1 29]

I think we have come to a consensus around here that the Mako pitch is about +3 (as set on profiling equipment... 3/32nds). Some of that is from the holder and some of that is from the blade (a guy who "measured" it for me by using the profiling equipment puts it at around +1.5 contribution from the blade). The profiling equipment rotates the skate about (around) the CENTER point of the skate uniformly regardless of the size of the skate (the distance of the "actuator" of the rotation from the center of the skate does not vary from skate to skate). So if the Edge holder/blade combination is neutral (I have no idea if this is the case) you would need to have a profiler put a +3 on your edge holder blades. A heel shim on the other hand rotates the skate about the TOE of the skate from the heel. Not only does this distance depend on the size of the skate, assuming that you only have a contact point at the front set of rivets and the rear set of rivets, the distance would be AT LEAST twice that of the profiling equipment. Now this is probably an invalid assumption, because all of the rivets are in fact in contact (probably the boot bends a little and the holder bends a little) so I don't know what that does to the math. I would think that a good starting point (assuming that the edge holder/blade is neutral) would be to use a shim around 3/32nds. If it didn't feel like you were quite there, add a little more. If you have reason to believe that the edge holder/blade is not neutral and already has a bit of forward pitch, maybe start with 2/32nds and go up from there. Since you now have tee nuts instead of rivets, you are in an ideal position to exercise trial and error. I have never profiled a pair of skates or used shims in my life though... so I could be all wet.

BTW, I have had CXN holders for two or three years and I haven't cracked one yet playing 3 or 4 nights a week and blocking a lot of shots.

Hmm, thanks for the info, maybe I just had a bad set or the rivets were loose causing excessive flex that allowed that to break.

I noticed when I was taking out the rivets that some of the rear tower rivets were loose and did not appear to be set properly in the boot itself.

Hopefully with the tee-nuts I will get a more consistent pressure across the entire holder