Easton Mako Skates

[DigiV 6]

What's important is going with a setup that works best for you. As for the steel, I preferred the LS3 steel over both the LS2 and Fusion. As for the Edge holder, I think it's a big improvement with the being able to swap out runners without a socket wrench.

Yup, and it's working great so far.

I know the sizing of this boot is very different from others, and that baking can alter the fit quite drastically. That being said, can anyone comment on boot length in comparison to Reebok. I'm currently in a pair of Reebok 11K in 8.5 D. What would be a good starting point in the Mako? 8.5, or even 8? I feel like I'd rather err on the side of too small vs too large. I tried a pair of MLX in the past, size 9, and they were too big.

I know there is no substitute for actually trying on, but I have absolutely no pro shops anywhere nearby. I'd like to order online and hope to get it right on the first try.

Thanks to anyone who can shed some light.

I was normally an 8.5 in most skates but in the makos i went 8 and it does stretch out.

I mentioned to the designer that they should have left the runner neutral as not everyone can skate great with forward pitch. Perhaps next year they'll make the change. In the meantime, profiling and balancing the runner out by removing stock from the rear of the blade, does the trick.Ya

That would've been a great idea but i remember in an interview Easton mentioned they were specifically aiming for a younger demographic? The kids coming up.

Maybe they should have offered at least the option of choosing the aggressive blade pitch vs neutral.

Edited August 7, 2013 by DigiV

[AfftonDad 88]

I don't know how the profiling systems work... Is there a way to put the 9ft bar on a new Mako runner and adjust the pitch setting until it sort of "lines up" with the stock runner, so that you can know where it is at when stock? I would like to work back from where it is rather than starting at neutral and moving forward.

[jimmy 194]

I don't know how the profiling systems work... Is there a way to put the 9ft bar on a new Mako runner and adjust the pitch setting until it sort of "lines up" with the stock runner, so that you can know where it is at when stock? I would like to work back from where it is rather than starting at neutral and moving forward.

You can set up any radius bar and set pitch at any amount in a reverse position.

[DigiV 6]

You can set up any radius bar and set pitch at any amount in a reverse position.

That's what the guy here tried to do and butchered the blade.

[AfftonDad 88]

You can set up any radius bar and set pitch at any amount in a reverse position.

I think maybe I wasn't clear. What I meant was... is there a way to use the profiling equipment to "measure" what the existing pitch is on a new runner of known radius (so on the mako you would use the 9ft bar) and line it up with the runner such that you could determine that the brand new mako runner was for example, a +4mm pitch? Then I would know that I need to go to a +3mm pitch to get "just a little change" from the stock runner. Thanks.

[smcgreg 81]

I think maybe I wasn't clear. What I meant was... is there a way to use the profiling equipment to "measure" what the existing pitch is on a new runner of known radius (so on the mako you would use the 9ft bar) and line it up with the runner such that you could determine that the brand new mako runner was for example, a +4mm pitch? Then I would know that I need to go to a +3mm pitch to get "just a little change" from the stock runner. Thanks.

That's why I asked Jimmy further up the thread how the stock Mako compared to noicing's pitch ratings. I want to get less aggressive, but don't know what the existing pitch is, or how much to "back off". I'd like to do it in a somewhat standard fashion, so, that's why I asked Jimmy and was planning on using their profiled steel. I haven't gotten an answer yet.

[jimmy 194]

That's why I asked Jimmy further up the thread how the stock Mako compared to noicing's pitch ratings. I want to get less aggressive, but don't know what the existing pitch is, or how much to "back off". I'd like to do it in a somewhat standard fashion, so, that's why I asked Jimmy and was planning on using their profiled steel. I haven't gotten an answer yet.

Many pages ago in this thread I reported a measurement of the mako's stock pitch. If you want to "back off" from that it can be done. You have to work with your profile "specialist". There is no simple answer for a forum, it's all skater specific.

[smcgreg 81]

Many pages ago in this thread I reported a measurement of the mako's stock pitch. If you want to "back off" from that it can be done. You have to work with your profile "specialist". There is no simple answer for a forum, it's all skater specific.

Thanks. Guess I'll go elsewhere.

[jimmy 194]

Thanks. Guess I'll go elsewhere.

I don't do business using forum threads. I answer general questions just to help folks out.

[AfftonDad 88]

I just emailed Easton asking about what the pitch of the CXN's runner is.The email went to a "general" Easton Sports guy, who forwarded it on to the Hockey Skate Product Manager. This was my question:

I own a pair of Mako Skates. I love them in every respect including the aggressive forward pitch however, the pitch is giving my knees a little bit of trouble. I would like to have a set of runners profiled such that they maintain much of the pitch but reduce it a little. I am aware that in the Mako some of the forward pitch comes from the holder and some comes from the runner.

1) I believe that the stock radius on the CXN runner is 9ft. Is this correct?

2) What is the stock forward pitch (i.e. +1mm,+2mm, +3mm, etc) on the CXN runner (runner only… not runner + holder)?

Once I know these things I’ll have everything I need to be able to tell my hockey shop how to profile my runners to something that will maintain much of the pitch but reduce it a little.

This was his reply:

1) Yes, 9ft radius

2) The pitch is +2mm which comes from the holder. The steel can be profiled at -2mm to achieve a neutral pitch.

I was surprised by this as I thought I could visibly see that the front of the working section of the blade is shorter than the back. It it possible that some of the pitch comes where the blade inserts into the holder, giving the appearance of a shorter blade in the front?

[Tailboard Jockey 25]

What about putting a lift at the front of the holder?

[mojo122 535]

Yes, lifts at the front of the holder can be done.

[jimmy 194]

What about putting a lift at the front of the holder?

The ES4 steel has slightly over 1 degree of pitch on it. To get a normal amount of pitch, a front lift is a great option.

[kenneth 5]

I had something similar happen to mine Seaner; my liner pulled up at from the bottom sole and tear a bit, I just did the hill billy thing and added a piece of tape where it pulled off and tore and it hasn't further more tore or pulled away any more. I can post a picture later when I get home from work to show you

can you post a pic if you don't mind? i noticed that the liner is has pulled away/seperated/bubbled up from the padding from the ankle bone to the top of the footbed. Anyone have any ideas on how to repair this?

Edited August 10, 2013 by kenneth

[jimmy 194]

can you post a pic if you don't mind? i noticed that the liner is has pulled away/seperated/bubbled up from the padding from the ankle bone to the top of the footbed. Anyone have any ideas on how to repair this?

Your issue sounds like a warranty issue. Check with your dealer.

[kenneth 5]

i'm probably SOL b/c these were purchased used online (this is the risk i took) so i'm looking for repair options.

I'd have S17s (great performance but not durability) before and didn't last long so i didn't wanna risking paying full retail again.

Edited August 10, 2013 by kenneth

[Zjack38 46]

eBay?

[jimmy 194]

i'm probably SOL b/c these were purchased used online (this is the risk i took) so i'm looking for repair options.

I'd have S17s (great performance but not durability) before and didn't last long so i didn't wanna risking paying full retail again.

Contact cement.

[Zjack38 46]

Oh used my bad

[mjpisat 36]

I've been skating in these since April 2-4 days a week. All of a sudden recently right above my ankle bone on the outside of my left leg near the top of the boot, something is digging in and starts to hurt after a while of skating. Can't figure out what it is. Don't know if it's the boot, a combo of the tongue and shin guard chafing my leg. looks like i have some type of small cut or irritation that no matter how long i give it a rest it doesn't go away.

funny thing about it, i was talking to another dude who also has mako's and he has the same thing in the same exact spot, same leg. I really like the skates, but it gets to the point where after 30-40 minutes I want to stop.

[Krev 86]

I've never had that issue. I'd roll out the top of the skate with a heatgun, that seems to solve the problem for most people.

This question also could've been put in here, I don't think it needs its own thread. http://www.modsquadhockey.com/forums/index.php/topic/61887-easton-mako-skates/page-47

[mjpisat 36]

It's actually below the part where you'd roll it out.

Can a mod delete this and add my post to the mako post?

[irbenaid 0]

It's actually below the part where you'd roll it out.

Can a mod delete this and add my post to the mako post?

I've had this same exact issue on and off. I've heated them multiple times and until I realized that rolling them out wasn't helping I actually made the situation worse. At first I thought that it was high enough that rolling out would make the problem go away but it made it worse because it created more contact with that area. I'd say it's about an inch above my ankle bone and it happens from the forward flex. I really feel it when I push off or lean into them hard. Just my right ankle though.

Anyway long story short by rolling them out it made things worse. Think of it like this is your anke I and then by rolling the top out it makes the skate look like this (. So you end up with this I( rubbing your anke everytime you flex in them. So what I did was hear the skate up and put an oven mitt on and then just pushed that area out until the inside of the skate flattened out. I played last night and had no problems at all after doing that. I'm hoping it holds this time because I thought I had them fixed a few times. Hope that helps.

[IPv6Freely 2092]

I skated a few more times on mine since I had noicing do a slight negative and 10' radius (and FBV!). Night and day. Will be sending in the stock runners to have them profiled as well and get on a monthly rotation.

Edited August 13, 2013 by OptimusReim

[yesido 0]

Picking up my Makos tomorrow. Coming from CL's. I saw above that the default pitch is 2 mm for Makos, but for comparison purposes can somebody tell me what it is for the CL's? When I got the CL's profiled I had them do a 9 foot radius with a forward pitch (not sure exactly how much they did). I'm assuming that since the Mako's start with a forward pitch I should get them neutral and not get an additional forward pitch if I want it to feel kind of similar to the profiled CL's (and because additional forward pitch on the Makos would be too much), but can someone confirm? I hope this question makes sense. Many thanks in advance.