Choosing my first stick

[jts15 0]

Hi Modsqaud. I just started playing organized hockey at 40 years old. I'm having a blast and the wife if buying me "one of those fancy sticks" for xmas.

I mention that this is my first stick...but that's not true. I've always had a stick to shoot around since I was a kid but it was just whatever came off the shelf.

What I do have is an old wood stick I pulled out of the garage to play my first few games. No idea what the curve, lie, face, etc is. I never realized how complicated choosing a stick could be and I'm feeling a bit overwhelmed.

I read the stick guide posted at hfboards but was looking for a little more guidance. I lurked around here as I picked up my protective gear and thought i would ask for some advice.

So I got an email from hockeymonkey and thay are doing a buy one get one sale. I did some research on some of the sticks in the sale and it looks like the Warrior Widow is a really good stick and they have it for $100. 2 sticks for that price seems like a good deal, no??

I'm thinking of going intermediate, I'm right shooting, 5'9" 155 lbs, but have no idea on the curve.

They have Burrows, Kovalchuk, and Savard in the Widow. I'm confused because their chart says Burrows and savard are the same. Any suggestions on a curve? I'm a beginner for sure.

Thanks in advance for any help. if you need more info just let me know. I've been researching this to death and I feel more confused than when i started.

[AIREAYE 248]

Why are you confused? Choice overload?

Burrows and Savard ARE the same, just re-named.

Ultimately, sticks are personal preference. They can be fine tuned in terms of spec as much or little as you want.

It's more of understanding what size range you should be (flex/length) and then picking out things like curve preference or kickpoint later down the road as you try more sticks AND your technique changes/improves.

If you want to take advantage of a good deal, I suggest you try 2 different sticks that are comparable in tier, and comparable in flex, but may have different attributes like curve or kickpoint,

[mc88 160]

The link you posted is a pretty damn good guide. Very thorough with lots of good information. However, if you have the option, go to a local hockey shop and hold the Warrior Widow in your hand. See if you like the way it feels/flexes/lies. Don't guess and assume you'll like the stick based on price/reviews.

Umm, in terms of curve, I'd recommend sticking to a mild curve if you're still learning shooting/passing/stick handling. Something similar to a P88 Kane/E7 Ignila/W88 Zetterberg/P40 Hossa/Peron OR P106/PM9/W01 Lupul/ etc. Mild curves will be easier to learn with. The unfortunate thing is a lot of these sticks have different lies. So, again, it'll help going to a shop and seeing which one feels the most natural.

Intermediate should be good for you in terms of flex, however not sure about the height. Some people like their sticks tall (just below the nose) or short (just below the chin-shoulders) while on skates. Since it's personal preference, that's something you'll have to consider. Intermediate for flex, but lacks height (you can always add an extension, but it'll impact flex), or senior for height, but may be too stiff because you have to cut it down to size. Again, that's something you'll have to decide on!

[z1ggy 81]

If you're near a hockey monkey, I highly suggest going there to try out many sticks to shoot. I've always been a mid/mid-toe curve guy, but I've tried heel curves, different lie's etc over the years for experimenting. Instead of wasting money on all that I wish I had just taken a few trips up to the store to do some shooting and stick handling.

With all that said, if I were you, I'd pick something like a P87/P92/Sakic type curve, in 70/75 flex as your starting point. You likely won't need anything stiffer than 75 flex, you could maybe go intermediate, but I have no experience playing with them. Have held them and what not... They are all shorter and a bit more narrow than senior sticks. Keep that in mind too.

[jonesy9020 77]

I agree with what everyone has said about a lot of this being about personal preference, and that a flex in the range of 65-75 sounds about right. The one thing I will say, is that a discounted stick on clearance is almost always a better buy than the equivalent stick in the current lineup. Despite all the talk about different technologies that goes on on this board, I'd be hard-pressed to say that an MX3 is significantly better than an NXG, that a Superfast is worlds ahead of a stage 2 or original RBZ, or that the HTX is way better than a V9 or Mako, or that a CCM Ribcor is better than a Reebok Ribcor, etc. (especially for regular beer-leaguers). Often these discounts are pretty signifcant, and you can pick up an older model at about half the price of a new one.

There are some exceptions to this rule, particularly with regard to durability, and a lot of these you can pick out on retailer website reviews for the product. A few examples that come to mind are the Stealth RS/85S/75S lineup moving to the V9e. The old stealth lineup was plagued by blade durability issues, while the V9e, its successor, has a pretty good track record.

If you have a curve you're used to on your wood stick, just stick with something similar.

As far as the widow goes, consensus is that it's a great stick...until the blade blows out...which happens way too fast. In short, I'd look elsewhere. Can say the Bauer Vapor X6.0 and Easton Mako are solid sticks, especially at 2 for 100, but the blade selection seems limited.

[jonesy9020 77]

Actually just read some more about the V9E, also seems to have its fair share of durability issues, so perhaps not the best example, but you get the point.

[Cosmic 178]

I am about to grab my first OPS since I was a kid and using the black KOHO (1987-1988- $12.99). Warrior QR Pro is my choice. Seems like it's got great performance and it's gonna be durable, and I like W88 curve. Qr3 seems like good value too- a true OPS for $150? Value-wise it seems like the Pro is the way to go for the extra $50. I looked at all discounted sticks and nothing appeals to me for one reason or another (durability/ balance/ bad puck feel/ etc.)

[kyleo29 58]

For beer league just buy a couple Sherwood 5030s and save your money for some nice skates.

[Chadd 916]

First of all, we do not allow links to other forums, and it has been removed. There is some incorrect information in there and a lot of personal opinion that is debatable.

Picking up two widows for that price would be a great buy, and I personally loved the stick. They are easy to load and kick pretty consistently. As mentioned, Burrows and Savard are the same curve, just a matter of a marketing change when Savard was forced to retire due to injury. I also think that is a good curve for players trying to figure out what they want. It has a relatively flat rocker, meaning more of the blade is on the ice. It doesn't have a deep curve, making more of the backhand useful for catching or making passes. It isn't the easiest blade to elevate the puck but that is just a matter of technique. Kovalchuk is also a pretty flat rocker on the bottom but it is a very deep curve. It will be easier to lift the puck on your forehand but it will also be harder to use your backhand for anything.

Warrior uses a 70 flex for intermediates and the Widows were longer than other sticks, so that should work out ok for you. You shouldn't feel like you have to put everything into the shot in order to get the stick to bend and release through the puck. The lighter flex also helps with lifting the puck on shots.

As you learn your own preferences for and against certain things, it will make things easier down the road.

For beer league just buy a couple Sherwood 5030s and save your money for some nice skates.

Most of the guys on my team that use 5030s spend more on sticks than guys using mid level composite sticks. The blades get too soft on the 5030s and they need to be replaced a lot more often.

[DolomaticDangles 13]

Widow will be way more stick than you need (in a good way). Highly recommended especially at $50/each

[badkarma 4]

what would be the most money I should spend on a beginner composite stick? This will be my first ice stick, so I don't need anything crazy pro, but I would like something that will last me for a bit...

[jonesy9020 77]

The big thing with beginner sticks moreso than durability is just weight. In fact, most lower end sticks use a lot more fiberglass as opposed to carbon composite, which is more durable than composite, but heavier and less responsive.

If you're a true beginner I don't really see anything wrong with a good wood stick, e.g. Sherwood 5030, 7000, 9950, as it'll help you develop feel for stickhandling and passing.

If you want to go with a composite, as I said I think going with an older discounted higher end model is always a better move. In my opinion "beginner sticks" is typically just a word for "worse sticks." What I mean by this is that I don't think any beginner necessarily gets any performance benefit out of a lower end stick, in contrast to skates, where a beginner would be much better off in a cheaper, more flexible boot to develop strength and technique. It's kinda hard to give a price given that you can get great sticks that used to be $200+ on clearance for MUCH cheaper. Given the number of sales out there, I wouldn't spend much more than $100 on a beginner stick.

Bigger issues than price for beginners are making sure you get a flex that allows you to shoot effectively.

[Chadd 916]

what would be the most money I should spend on a beginner composite stick? This will be my first ice stick, so I don't need anything crazy pro, but I would like something that will last me for a bit...

Spend whatever is comfortably within your budget. The value of the Widow at that price trumps anything else on the market.

If you're a true beginner I don't really see anything wrong with a good wood stick, e.g. Sherwood 5030, 7000, 9950, as it'll help you develop feel for stickhandling and passing.

That doesn't make much sense to me and I started with wood sticks and blades. Why learn the feel and response of wood, then have to learn it all over again with composite? Not to mention the consistency and benefits of a high end composite stick when it comes to shooting. I'm not saying that everyone has to do it that way, I just don't know why you would try and talk someone out of doing it the way he intended.

[IPv6Freely 2096]

I'd stick to under $100 for sure. Lots of good sticks out there for $89 and $99, and last years sticks on clearance for even less.

As an example the CCM sticks at the $100 price point are fantastic.

[badkarma 4]

ok...sounds good...ill set the starting bar at less that $100...I appreciate that

[jonesy9020 77]

Spend whatever is comfortably within your budget. The value of the Widow at that price trumps anything else on the market.

That doesn't make much sense to me and I started with wood sticks and blades. Why learn the feel and response of wood, then have to learn it all over again with composite? Not to mention the consistency and benefits of a high end composite stick when it comes to shooting. I'm not saying that everyone has to do it that way, I just don't know why you would try and talk someone out of doing it the way he intended.

Sorry, I wasn't trying to talk them out of it at all. Sorry if it came off that way. I suppose I could've been clearer, but really just wanted to say that if money is a concern, there's no problem with a wood stick to start out with, especially because I don't see any significant performance advantage when talking about most low-end composites.

[badkarma 4]

what about a 2 piece? will a higher end clearance shaft and blade combo from last year do the trick? are there any drawbacks from a stick and blade two piece for a beginner on ice? thanks

[IPv6Freely 2096]

Meh I wouldn't bother. Once upon a time it made a lot of sense, so you could try a bunch of curves without breaking the bank. But the blades are harder and harder to find and in so few patterns it's not really worth the hassle. Besides, low end composites are cheap enough these days that the benefit is almost nullified.

[stick9 896]

I always suggest going with a shaft/blade combo at first. This will let find the blade thet suites you the best without wasting too much money in the process. At this point you won't notice a difference, and in some cases the difference is marginal at best.

I would start with a simple mid curve, nothing too extreme. being about the same height as you, the lie will be around 5.

All that said, two Widows for $100 is a pretty slick deal.

Stay away from low end composites. If that's the route you are thinking of going, just get a wood stick. They aren't worth it. A good shaft/blade combo will out perform a low end composite.

Don't trust that other site for info in gear. That's not what that place is about.

[Chadd 916]

Meh I wouldn't bother. Once upon a time it made a lot of sense, so you could try a bunch of curves without breaking the bank. But the blades are harder and harder to find and in so few patterns it's not really worth the hassle. Besides, low end composites are cheap enough these days that the benefit is almost nullified.

I couldn't agree more.

[kovalchuk71 212]

I'd stick to under $100 for sure. Lots of good sticks out there for $89 and $99, and last years sticks on clearance for even less.

As an example the CCM sticks at the $100 price point are fantastic.

I will echo this statement. I am a high end stick snob, but to be quite honest, my shot has had the most velocity with the $99 range sticks. I think the best value lies in the Warrior QR4. The stick kicks like a mule and is fairly light for the price point. I was very impressed with it considering it is the 4th model in that the stick line. I also think that the increased flex from the dagger taper will help you learn how to load a stick properly.

EDIT: DON'T go below the $99 mark for sticks if you can help it. Most do not flex in a proper arc like they are supposed to. They simply twist, which doesn't teach you anything about loading a stick. I'd go as far to say it will hinder your learning experience.

[badkarma 4]

so I walked into my local hockey shop with the intention of just looking around...I needed a stick just to practice playing around with on the pond and walked out with a Easton Synergy 20...got it way below the MSRP of $60...I figure it would be just to play around with and something to let my girlfriend use when we go out and pass the puck back and forth and it also buys me time to find my $100 first real stick...LOL...

[jonesy9020 77]

Looking at picking up some Int. 70 flex Widows, just curious about Warrior's intermediate length. Was in a store recently and saw some older model intermediates (DT1, DT2) and they were pretty tall. I'm about 6' and they were up to my nose in shoes. Perfect length and could possibly even stand to lose an inch. In contrast, newer Warrior Intermediates like the DT1LT/ST and QR1 were all way too short. Since the Widow came before any of these sticks, I'm hoping it'd have a similar height to the first gen DT1/2.

All feedback welcome. Also looking at the Diablo because it seems like it may be more durable (hard to tell based on limited reviews) or if it is longer than the Int. Widow.