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Westside

True skate owners - how often do your rivets loosen?

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I switched to True TF9s at the start of this season and have maybe 10 skates/games with them. Two rivets are already loosening up. I've never had a single rivet loosen up with any of my Bauer/CCM skates after years of use. I've read a number of posts in the past about this being an issue so I can't exactly say I'm surprised, but after this few uses!? 

 

The second piece to this might also lend the issue down to the quality of the job... Here's an inside view of one of the boots. I'm sure you can guess which rivet is loose on this skate:

1635782062846-vi.jpg

 

Here's an outer view. Why would washers be used on one side and not the other? I am also blown away by the fact that rivets are already rusting! I dry off my skates and remove the insoles after every single use. Again, never once had this issue with a single one of my Bauer/CCM skates.

1635782072618-vi.jpg

 

Suggestions/recommendations? 

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I have the same experience with my custom True player skates but somehow not my original version custom True goalie skates (which have way more use).

After about 6 months of twice a week use my custom True player skates had 3 rivets loosen up to the point they needed to be replaced and 2 coppers needed to be replaced. I air my gear out religiously and remove the insoles immediately after every skate, I have never had a rivet ever rust until the True skates. I figured it was because of the plastic on the midsole but if it is happening on the TF9 as well... not sure what to say.

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The only issues I had was with my first pair of True skates when true took over vh. That was bc I swapped holders and the holes got widened. My current and second pair of trues ive owned for 2 years playing on avg only once a week. I had ccm sb4.0 holders put on them since day 1 as I had the boots predrilled and the stock holders weren't put on. The key is to flatten the prongs of the steel rivets so there's no way for them to get loose. The place I got them done have dealt with true skates since the vh days and always do this when installing holders on true skates. There are a couple that have minimal play but not by any means "loose". At some point I'll probably have to get them re done but I'm not concerned as it's lasted this long without having to change any

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I'd be willing to bet it's the shitty material the rivets are made of. For the sake of saving a fraction of a cent they are using a sub par rivet. My bet would be if you got the rivets replaced with a decent rivet at just about any pro shop the problems of loose and rusting rivets would stop. 

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43 minutes ago, Vet88 said:

I'd be willing to bet it's the shitty material the rivets are made of. For the sake of saving a fraction of a cent they are using a sub par rivet. My bet would be if you got the rivets replaced with a decent rivet at just about any pro shop the problems of loose and rusting rivets would stop. 

Sadly, this was done by a recommended pro shop here…

 

16 minutes ago, Larry54 said:

Those are not the original holders, right?

No, they are not

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8 minutes ago, Westside said:

Sadly, this was done by a recommended pro shop here…

I know these skates. I did the swap.

The rivets we use are sourced from Blademaster and Blackstone, they are industry standard. Not sure why you have rust if you air them out properly after every skate. 

One of those rivets looks definitely like it's pulling through the boot. Happy to replace it or your local shop can replace it. Looks like one of the rivet teeth broke off allowing the rivet movement and then it sheared itself apart. 

Some rivets have washers on them to minimize movement since we swapped the Shift holder with a CCM holder and the holes were slightly larger. I didn't want the holder to have too much play otherwise it would wiggle itself loose and once the holder starts to shift all of the rivets will slowly loosen and pull themselves apart. I also didn't want to put in 10 copper rivets either....

Edited by PBH

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15 hours ago, Vet88 said:

I'd be willing to bet it's the shitty material the rivets are made of. For the sake of saving a fraction of a cent they are using a sub par rivet. My bet would be if you got the rivets replaced with a decent rivet at just about any pro shop the problems of loose and rusting rivets would stop. 

That doesn't explain why my coppers rusted...

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I'm hearing this issue is also common on one-piece CCM skates due to the outsole just being too thin to the rivets to latch to correctly?

I'm also hearing that having boots sent not pre-drilled (if swapping holders) and being extra careful on the diameter of the holes drilled (go as small as possible) helps?

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47 minutes ago, SolarWind said:

I'm hearing this issue is also common on one-piece CCM skates due to the outsole just being too thin to the rivets to latch to correctly?

I'm also hearing that having boots sent not pre-drilled (if swapping holders) and being extra careful on the diameter of the holes drilled (go as small as possible) helps?

Yes, this is common on CCM and Bauer skates when players select clarino liners. The liner doesnt soak up water and instead repels it which creates condensation and the rivets rust. Selecting a fabric liner helps with this. 

Its nearly impossible to get TRUE skates without holders mounted. Obviously, not having to drill holes is always preferred. Trust me, no pro shop enjoys removing a holder, drilling more holes and mounting a new holder. Its very stressful. One mistake or broken drill bit and the whole skate is ruined. I actually had a drill bit snap on me a month ago when mounting Marsblade holders and the broken portion of the bit attached to the drill slit my hand open like a razor. It was terrible. 

Edited by PBH

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I've had my custom Trues for almost 2 years now. On ice average 3 times a week in that span. I haven't had any issue with those rivets. I have had to replace the rivet on the tendon guard once on each skate.

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Wasn’t there something in another True thread about proper rivets in regards to which type & size needed to be used to accommodate the True outsole?

Also I might recall something about outsoles with masking tape on the inside for the rivet teeth to hold/catch better.

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