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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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yea, yea pics and details - Were addicted now to cutting OPS's, its not hockey anymore its a science. LOL

Like they say, "One mans trash, is another man Treasure..." or better yet

"Ones mans broken one peice, is another mans two peice..." LOL

My wife calls the basement my laboratory....

your lucky your wife lets you hold/keep this stuff. some think its just clutter/garbage and can't stand the look of it. Out it goes ASAP.

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I motion to make this topic a sticky. Maybe that would help eliminate some of the extra threads???

Somebody already suggested this on Mar 22 2008, 03:25 AM - In fact I think it was you!!! - And Chadd shut you down with a comment something like "...we can't devote a whole forum to cutting an OPS..."

But I do want to keep this thread going, until we beat it down real good.

Then we can summarize all our ideas and put them on a 3x5 card.

We are looking foward to your pics and details of your OPS cuttings soon!!!

Just like taking apart a golf ball, the fun will soon end....

I saw on YouTube the other day how Easton and CCM actually make OPS's - CCM showed how they put the blade into the shaft. Easton did not show this, they said it was "proprietary". LOL.

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Does anyone have experience cutting a Stealth CNT (Senior, Pro Stock)? Is it the standard size (14 x 26)? Does it need to be cut and heated? Just Heated? etc.

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Does anyone have experience cutting a Stealth CNT (Senior, Pro Stock)? Is it the standard size (14 x 26)? Does it need to be cut and heated? Just Heated? etc.

I had one that I was going to convert to take tapered blades but in the end, I decided I didnt want to put forth the effort because I came the conclusion that I really dont care for tapered blades nor OPSs all that much. I ended up putting in a regular composite blade in the shaft and it feels great; a little "soft" in the flex IMO. I'd definitely like to get my hands on another broken one to have a second stick with the same combo though.

I did try to heat it and pull the blade but that did not work, so you're going to have to cut. And I think those dimensions you posted are for all shafts because that is the size needed to accommodate a tapered blade.

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setup.jpg

Tuuk that's awesome. I actually hurt my shoulder for a couple weeks pulling a blade out of a Dolo, could barely shoot.

I know I'm digging up an old post, but I'm planning on working on a few sticks with broken blades tomorrow and was doing my research.

For people who don't have that spreader tool (I know I don't). I'm planning on using a car jack as my mechanical advantage. Just a tool that most everyone has access to that I'm visualizing can do the same thing. Thoughts? I'll let you know how it works if you are interested.

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It should work, just that its kinda overkill...

I've used the method with the spreaders with great effect... I can change out the blades without any issues altogether. Easy to set up, quick results.

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Touch wood, no... have not had the chance to do that yet as I still have my 5 OPS in good shape.

Having said that, I convert my TPS some time ago... i tried to locate the fuse point and pull from there, but didnt have the spreader setup at my parents' place to do it. I proceeded to slowly try and remove the tenon and broken blade, but it wouldnt budge. I then tried another method that someone suggested, cut the blade off at the fuse point, and knock the tenon out the other end (thru the top of the shaft). Surprisingly it worked much easier than pulling the broken blade/tenon out. A few knocks and the tenon just dropped out the other end along with the foam and glue crap.

I tried to pair the shaft with 1) bauer xx tapered blade, and 2) mission prostock tapered wooden blades. Both blades fit in really snug, no issues with rattling or anything. The cut was done pretty well (if I may say so myself) and once you pop the blade on, the blade sits snug and nicely on the edges.

In all honesty, I think even though the 'fused' OPS may pose a problem, I think the method described by YouTuuk is by far the easiest. You dont need any brute force, just squeeze the handles and the blade comes off easily.

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I'v done a buch of OG Synergy conversions as well a couple RBKs and I think an old sherwood. I uses Synergy 2/Elites in all of them (have also tried some pro-stock mission blades that fit great, too). Rbk is really tight - had to pretty much "jam" the balde in, but a RBK blade might fit better for the RBK shaft.

I too use the "bang out through the shaft" method. Basically cut just below the fuse point, heat a bit, then I have long piece of rebar that fits down the shaft that I'm able to knock the old tennon/blade out with.

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Got a drop in buddy that was complaining about his mission ti-pro OPS blade cracking... told him that if it goes, I'll trade him for a normal shaft.

If all things go to plan, I'll try out the method by YouTuuk and see if you can force out the broken blade.

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Got a drop in buddy that was complaining about his mission ti-pro OPS blade cracking... told him that if it goes, I'll trade him for a normal shaft.

If all things go to plan, I'll try out the method by YouTuuk and see if you can force out the broken blade.

I have a Mission Ti and it looks like the taper would be too thin for a conversion, like the XXXX sticks.

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currently trying to convert a broken ops rbk 7k to a shaft/blade combo. problem is the blade side of shaft tapers and wont fit a regular blade unless I cut about a foot off. problem is Im pretty tall guy and cant afford to cut this much off. so I flipped the shaft and put blade in the butt end side and now plan to install a wood extesnion in the tapered end. maybe I will dremel the wood extension down so it will fit. any suggestions?

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Ok, I've got two OPS sticks with broken blades. One is a TPS and I can clearly see the fuse line on that one so it'll be no trouble getting it out I guess.

Now, I also got a RBK 6k ProFeel OPS from which the blade broke off clean after 15 minutes of playing. I got a refund and got to keep the stick. I would like to stick a blade into it since it's such a new stick and I actually quite liked it for those 15 minutes (scored 3 goals with it as well)

The problem with the RBK is that it seems that there is no fuseline. I've looked into the shaft from both sides with a bright light on the other end but I really can't see any bump or ridge where the remains of the blade should've been, it's just one piece. What can I do, should I try to get a tapered blade and cut little piezes off the shaft to the point when the blade fits or is that never going to work and is my only option to turn the shaft around and use a normal blade?

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Tuuk that's awesome. I actually hurt my shoulder for a couple weeks pulling a blade out of a Dolo, could barely shoot.

I know I'm digging up an old post, but I'm planning on working on a few sticks with broken blades tomorrow and was doing my research.

For people who don't have that spreader tool (I know I don't). I'm planning on using a car jack as my mechanical advantage. Just a tool that most everyone has access to that I'm visualizing can do the same thing. Thoughts? I'll let you know how it works if you are interested.

Minwookie, did you manage to do it with the car jack? The concept is the same, maybe with a lot more force that potentially can be applied.

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I actually ended up not bothering with the jack. I just cut above where the tendon ended with a saw. The blades I ordered, sherwood 950 tapered, have rather long hosels, so saving a lot of shaft wasn't a key priority.

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has anyone tried cutting a 9kO? If so how did you do it? I figure the rebar trick won't work because of the holes. thanks.

Someone here did a cut and chisel job on theirs. I'm debating doing it to mine, the blade on it is such junk and it would be a cool one-of-a-kind shaft.

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Yeah, he did post a pic. Good luck finding it, maybe use google image search, but it would have to be named correctly (I know all my hockey pics are left as whatever my camera calls them).

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currently trying to convert a broken ops rbk 7k to a shaft/blade combo. problem is the blade side of shaft tapers and wont fit a regular blade unless I cut about a foot off. problem is Im pretty tall guy and cant afford to cut this much off. so I flipped the shaft and put blade in the butt end side and now plan to install a wood extesnion in the tapered end. maybe I will dremel the wood extension down so it will fit. any suggestions?

Just used a tapered blade.

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Yeah, he did post a pic. Good luck finding it, maybe use google image search, but it would have to be named correctly (I know all my hockey pics are left as whatever my camera calls them).

Do you know if he used a Tapered or standard blade? I'm considering doing it this weekend.

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