Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

[goaliekilr 0]

Between the N and D in pending

[automorph 0]

Anyone do a TPS R8 Lite?

Hoping for a "dolomite" heat and pull experience?

Anyone?

Thanks

[highslot84 0]

Hey guys,

I read through pretty much this whole thread today.... i have a Easton Synergy Elite that the blade has cracked. I was thinking about trying to make it into a 2 piece tapered shaft. But i wanted to make sure i have found what appears to me as the fuse point. Here are three pictures of the area in which someone said it was located. I sanded in down a little to remove the paint.

Thanks for any input you guys may have!!

http://img6.imageshack.us/i/cid0108001557.jpg/ - heel side of the shaft. found a couple small holes.

http://img684.imageshack.us/i/cid0108001556.jpg/ - think this is forehand side of the blade.

http://img684.imageshack.us/i/cid0108001555.jpg/ - and this should be backhand side of the blade.

[simnorm 2]

yep, that sure looks like the fuse point

http://img684.imageshack.us/i/cid0108001555.jpg/

[highslot84 0]

Awesome... once the blade finally goes completely limp.. ill be attempting this process

[Snooder 0]

Has anybody been successful with a One95? Any suggestions on where to cut?

Thanks

[Chadd 916]

Tried to heat and pull the blade out of Dolomite over the weekend and no amount of heat would allow the blade to slide out. In fact, the bottom of the shaft was damaged and came out with the end of the blade.

[highslot84 0]

Well my Easton Synergy Elite Broke about 6 inches above the fuse point on sunday. So i cut it there and decided to try and heat and remove the blade from the fuse point for shits and giggles. Havent had a lot of time yet but i've made shallow cuts at the fuse point (like i thought they suggested on here) about the depth of the shaft wall. I've heated it for about 10 minutes at a time and the glue i can see inside the broke part of the shaft still attached hasnt even begun to melt. I'll sit there for a half hour tomorrow and see if this is enough time and if not then im giving up. Surely the shaft would be damaged after 30 minutes under 1000 deg. heat gun.

[shotty 7]

i dont understand why you guys dont just cut and dremel.

[fatwabbit 93]

shotty, not everyone has a dremel... I thought of getting one myself from the local hardware shop, but might just stick to trying to punch the tenon out.

[tsums9 0]

ive done it on about 20 10k sticks just a real shallow cut on on the fuse point then i filed it down on one side of the shaft until i could push down on the blade and pop it through the shaft

[Point Man For The Devil 0]

Anyone do a TPS R8 Lite?

Hoping for a "dolomite" heat and pull experience?

Anyone?

Thanks

just cut my pro stock r8 lite down to a shaft today. wasn't too bad although i lost a bit of length as the shaft is super slim towards the blade ala the eliptical taper on s17's, cut it at the point a blade would actually fit in it. was chock full of foam about 9 inches through the shaft and had a very thick wall with a brace between the ends. chiselled out the brace, filed down the sidewalls till i could see the outer wall lines, tapped a chisel on the lines and chipped out the insert. was well worth it though.

[shotty 7]

shotty, not everyone has a dremel... I thought of getting one myself from the local hardware shop, but might just stick to trying to punch the tenon out.

haha. good reason! ignorance is bliss!

seriously though, the only time i apply heat to shaft is when i'm putting a blade in, and its usually for about 5-10 seconds. i couldn't imagine how weak a shaft would be after 2-3 minutes of high heat, let alone 30 minutes! almost not worth it.

any dremel style tool is a great investment. it blasts that tenon material right out, very quickly, and with a little concentration and soft hands (which im sure you all have ;) ), you can fully avoid compromising the inner wall of the shaft.

[mnpucker 33]

I just got a dremel! bad news I also just ruined a Montreal Nitro shaft trying to take make a blade fit. I broke the one piece Nitro on the fuse point so I thought I would throw another blade in it. As I progressed through the process I learned that the inside corners of the Nitro are rounded so much that the blade will not fit not matter what you do. I woudl have had to dremel the inside corners to square.

I bought a blade from Harrow 50% off and was really excited to stick it in that shaft, Loved that Nitro, amazing blade. So now I have a Harrow blade and I need to find a shaft.

[shotty 7]

next time, dremel the corners of the blade to accommodate the shaft

[fatwabbit 93]

shotty, how much does the dremel cost? I might pick up one....

[BucksAway 16]

shotty, how much does the dremel cost? I might pick up one....

dremels range in prices, you can pick them up fairly cheap

[simnorm 2]

I got a cheap dremel at Canadiantire for 6.99$ a while back. I've always used a chisel to take out the tenon from inside the shaft.

shotty, what bit are you using to do that job?

[shotty 7]

shotty, how much does the dremel cost? I might pick up one....

dremel is a trade name (kleenex, vice-grip, synergy), the actual device is called a rotary tool. the dremels are usually a bit more expensive but i've seen a price range from as low as $40 for just the tool to over $200 for the tool and accessories.

[SirJW 207]

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=94076

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/disp...temnumber=40457

[shotty 7]

shotty, what bit are you using to do that job?

i drill out a hole in the tenon big enough to get a beefy bit in there, then i work my way down a couple notches to a precision bit on high rpm. it takes maybe 10 minutes to get it nice and clean. i've taken to wearing gloves and a respirator, as that shit is nasty to inhale and get on your skin)

the rebar method sounds so manly, and i'd try it if i wasn't so hung up on avoiding high heat... and damaging the ground i'm working on (i live in a loft in a metro area. no workspace)

[tml67 0]

Has anyone converted an one95 OPS to a tapered shaft?

There is a visable fine line that runs around the radius of shaft just about where the graphics end. Is this the place to cut? I'm trying to determine how long the shaft will be after cutting off the blade.

Thanks

[jsykes 35]

Tried to heat and pull the blade out of Dolomite over the weekend and no amount of heat would allow the blade to slide out. In fact, the bottom of the shaft was damaged and came out with the end of the blade.

This past weekend I did this to a Dolomite. I cut the blade below the fuse point, you could see where the shaft and blade were and I just used heat, some pliers to get a hold of the hosel and a narrow knife blade that I could put down between the hosel and shaft to break the bond. Took some time, but got it out, then put in my Vapor blade of the curve I like and now have a backup/pickup/driveway stick.

Worried about how the heat might damage the shaft, however, I played a game with it the other night, it held up fine so I'll go with it for now.

[BucksAway 16]

I give a +100 to the way fatwabbit does it, recieved 2 shafts he had dont for me and i am amazed at how well it works

Fits tapered blades no problem and you cant even tell it was once a OPS

[sarmalidu 1]

I was able to get tapered blades into a pair of broken Corey Perry prostock shafts I got from somebody on the boards here. It was a lot of effort to drill / chisel the old tenons out. Definitely not a heat and pull experience for me because the blades were already broken off. It is certainly possible, but I would err on the side of caution and expect to have to put in some time / effort to get it done. It took me a couple hours+ to get both shafts done successfully.

Anyone do a TPS R8 Lite?

Hoping for a "dolomite" heat and pull experience?

Anyone?

Thanks