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kovalchuk71

Cutting OPS at fuse point.....

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has anyone has any luck converting a X60 ops into a 2 piece?

i have a x60 that i snapped in half dead center of the blade. So i can make a cut anywhere. The catch is, it is an Intermediate X60 stick. I was at a local hockey shop and compared an intermediate stick with the X60 taper blade and it "looked" like it would fit....but i'm not sure if it would? anyone?

The x60 blade in toronto isnt cheap either it's like $80 plus taxes, would be almost $100 experiment. <_<

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has anyone has any luck converting a X60 ops into a 2 piece?

i have a x60 that i snapped in half dead center of the blade. So i can make a cut anywhere. The catch is, it is an Intermediate X60 stick. I was at a local hockey shop and compared an intermediate stick with the X60 taper blade and it "looked" like it would fit....but i'm not sure if it would? anyone?

The x60 blade in toronto isnt cheap either it's like $80 plus taxes, would be almost $100 experiment. <_<

Could try a tapered wood blade first. Cheaper experiment.

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shotty: you converted a S19 to a tapered shaft, was it a retail or pro stock? Thanks

done it with both.

has anyone has any luck converting a X60 ops into a 2 piece?

i have a x60 that i snapped in half dead center of the blade. So i can make a cut anywhere. The catch is, it is an Intermediate X60 stick. I was at a local hockey shop and compared an intermediate stick with the X60 taper blade and it "looked" like it would fit....but i'm not sure if it would? anyone?

The x60 blade in toronto isnt cheap either it's like $80 plus taxes, would be almost $100 experiment. <_<

cut the shaft first and bring it in to the store.

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Are any of you able to salvage blades? I have a few sticks that are broken right in the middle of the shaft. These would only be good for Dorf and I am 6 feet tall. I'd like to salvage blades out of these to use with other sticks.

Here's another thought. Would a mod be able to make a master list of what is a true one piece, and what is a two piece fused? Is this thread sticky material?

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Are any of you able to salvage blades? I have a few sticks that are broken right in the middle of the shaft. These would only be good for Dorf and I am 6 feet tall. I'd like to salvage blades out of these to use with other sticks.

Here's another thought. Would a mod be able to make a master list of what is a true one piece, and what is a two piece fused? Is this thread sticky material?

Other than the Busch OPS everything else is fused in some manner.

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Shotty, do you have any pics of the s19?

i did, but i just trashed them the other day. i'll more next time i have my camera and my sticks within a reasonable proximity of one and other.

Are any of you able to salvage blades?

a teammate of mine does. i think he just chisels away the layers of composite until it fits. he's got it down to an art.

Edited by shotty

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I was able to salvage the blade from a synergy once. It's fun to mess around with, but I'm not sure if I would trust it out on the ice. I posted a pic a few pages back. It just took a saw and some chiseling. I heated the blade up for a while, and the shaft seemed to just pop right off the blade tennon.

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Are any of you able to salvage blades? I have a few sticks that are broken right in the middle of the shaft. These would only be good for Dorf and I am 6 feet tall. I'd like to salvage blades out of these to use with other sticks.

Here's another thought. Would a mod be able to make a master list of what is a true one piece, and what is a two piece fused? Is this thread sticky material?

I've done this with my sliding compound mitre saw. I cut the shaft down to the top of the hosel then marked the fuse point. Then I set the depth guide on the saw so I was only shaving through the layer of composite shaft on the top of the shaft and not into the hosel itself. Then, I work the saw back and forth as I slide the blade from the fuse point to the top of the hosel. Then I make a single pass across the forehand, bottom, and backhand of the shaft at the fuse point. After that, a tap with a chisel or flat screw driver should separate the shaft pieces from the tenon. If I've gotten it right, the forehand-bottom-backhand part of the shaft covering the tenon comes off cleanly.

I tried this first with a broken blade someone had left on the bench just to see if it could be done. Now I'll salvage a teammate's (or my own) blade when an OPS shaft breaks. It works well on Warrior and CCM sticks, the Eastons and Bauers are a bit tougher.

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I was able to salvage the blade from a synergy once. It's fun to mess around with, but I'm not sure if I would trust it out on the ice. I posted a pic a few pages back. It just took a saw and some chiseling. I heated the blade up for a while, and the shaft seemed to just pop right off the blade tennon.

I have done a ton of them and have had a few problems. nothing major though. i use a torch, pliers and a small hacksaw. as chadd stated most ops are fused. the trick is to find where the fuse point is, go up about 4" and cut it. then using the torch heat up the graphite until glows. then taking your time peel the layers off. i can do a blade in about 5-10 minutes. some will come out if you heat up the shaft. i have used and sold blades that i have done this with and had on problems.

i don't think it's possible. I remember there being a discussion on the same hing with the 9K O-sticks.

8.0.8 cna't be done. i have done it to 9k0 though.

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Thanks for all of your insight everyone. I think I was able to salvage a blade from an old blue ST and put it into a S11. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. I epoxied it using 5 minute epoxy and I'm going to sand smooth, prime and paint the blade tomorrow. Wish me luck!

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Thanks for all of your insight everyone. I think I was able to salvage a blade from an old blue ST and put it into a S11. We'll see how it goes tomorrow. I epoxied it using 5 minute epoxy and I'm going to sand smooth, prime and paint the blade tomorrow. Wish me luck!

This is pre-paint. Not perfect but we'll see how it goes.

PalmPre470.jpg

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I turned a SE 16 and a older blue ST into shafts last night. first I sanded to expose fuse line then I cut off broken blade at line. I used a heat gun, chisel and a dremel to clean out the shaft. the glue on the SE started to bubble and the tenon peeled away surprisingly easy.

The ST was a little harder. there was more crap in the shaft and it took a little longer to clean it out.

The Synthesis blade i put in the SE16 fits perfect, I need to clean out the ST a little more for a better fit.

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has anyone has any luck converting a X60 ops into a 2 piece?

i have a x60 that i snapped in half dead center of the blade. So i can make a cut anywhere. The catch is, it is an Intermediate X60 stick. I was at a local hockey shop and compared an intermediate stick with the X60 taper blade and it "looked" like it would fit....but i'm not sure if it would? anyone?

The x60 blade in toronto isnt cheap either it's like $80 plus taxes, would be almost $100 experiment. <_<

Yup, you have to cut quite low on the shaft and also use a file IN the shaft after cutting as the X60 has a strange taper compared to other sticks I've converted. I threw an Easton SE16 blade in it, sprayed it black and it looks (and plays) like a brand new X60.

**Also mine is an INT stick as well, so you can do it :)

Edited by ZINC

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Hey Brian I have pulled a played from a dolomite and reused it.. it was actually a pro stock dolomite. Its rather easy i thought. There is a bit of work to it though.

Thank you.

What type of work do you mean?

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Being the first stick ive ever done like this, i had used a small hand saw to carefully cut some of the fused part of the stick. then i had the damnedness time with the torch trying to pull it.. used a small flat head screwdriver to peel away in a sense the shaft from all the glue on the hosel of the blade.. I probably did it wrong being my first stick and kind of winging it but i ended up cutting maybe 1/2 inch off the hosel of the blade and slightly indenting the hosel from prying. it works great and i play maybe 1-2 times a week at various drop ins. if you have done one before then youll be fine. but its pretty easy just a lil more work then i had expected. i would recommend a torch over a heat gun to help pull the blade out. let me know if ya have any other questions

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Yup, you have to cut quite low on the shaft and also use a file IN the shaft after cutting as the X60 has a strange taper compared to other sticks I've converted. I threw an Easton SE16 blade in it, sprayed it black and it looks (and plays) like a brand new X60.

**Also mine is an INT stick as well, so you can do it :)

Thanks Zinc,

when you mean "cut quite low on the shaft"....what exactly does that mean? lol.

I dont want to loose the low kick point.

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I cut the stick right around where I thought the tenon would start (on the blade), only to find that the X60 does not use a tenon, so I just used a very small circular file to bore out the taper (you'll see what I mean when you cut it) and then slid the blade in.

**For example, if you look at the Easton pic above I cut about an inch above where the yellow paint starts on the blade.

Edited by ZINC

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Sooo... if anybody ever found the fuse point on the One95, can you post up a pic of something you've done or at least a pic of where the fuse point is . It was quite obvious on the Synergy elite I've done, but I can't seem to find it on the One95.

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