Leaderboard

I apparently do not own a metric ruler and despite having about 37 tape measures, don't know where any of them are. So measurements are in Freedom Units. This is not at all scientific, and there was nearly no quality control involved. As noted above, both skates are size 8. Jetspeed Peakspeed From footbed to top of skate - back of skate (ankle guard) 5.75" 5.63" From footbed to top of skate - above eyelet 6.25" 5.75" From footbed to center of top eyelet 5.5" 5.38"

Graf Supra 707 skates were my jam for a majority of my life. Second would be Bauer Nexus 1000.

It's possible they're just more in line with the size recommendations. For example size 254 is a size 5-6 skate. Based on the Quad recommendations you should go with the Quad XS though many skaters with this size were on a Quad 0 or Quad 1. Since the Ellipse profiles don't have any real specifications to examine it's possible the (Ellipse) profiles size recommendations are more accurate.

It was the generic you 😉

And you thought the Project X looked like the Stealth RS...

Here's a picture - I'm guessing from the later 70's.

What size steel and what brand? I know some shops will alter the pivot point based on the steel size or brand of steel. For example, when I profile Flare I usually dont do as much forward pitch since I want to remove a minimal amount of steel possible. Also, I always tell my customers exactly what I am doing when I profile their steel. If they can't come back to me, or decide they want to go elsewhere, I don't want to be the "gatekeeper" to their profile. I know there are some shops that refuse to share details with their customers and while I understand some of that information could be considered proprietary I feel like it's customer lock-in.

Old school Stealth shouldies... Easton RG Camo are amazingly light and form-fitting. Super light but more than anything, super form-fitting. They don't move much at all while I'm playing. That being said, they run warm simply because of how snug they are - it's the only downside to these things. I get quite warm with them on and a heavier sweater over them. I think the tag considered them something like Stealth C7.5 as they had some upgrades over the Stealth C7.0 (namely the Pro version of the straps I believe).

Think of all the money you saved by not playing for a year. You owe it to yourself to spend some of that on new gear. 😄💸

I agree that this site is the best resource. Chassis: Hi Lo, Flat, Marsblade O1 (more for ice training) and R1 (designed for playing inline) and the Sprung chassis are the main playing options. I have tried Hi Lo, Flat, the old Tuuk Rocker and Sprungs and definitely prefer Sprungs, but you do have to maintain them (and if you want them to last, it's better to use them indoors then outdoors). I haven't tried the Marsblade R1, but would if my Sprungs were shot and I couldn't buy another set of those. The Sprung creator is working on a more durable version called the Fizix, but there's no definitive information on if or when those will be released (just prototypes on FB that have been posted for 2-3 years now). There are more detailed threads here with detailed discussions on the Marsblade O1, R1 and Sprungs. Wheels: This depends on your weight and the surface you're playing on. For outdoors on Asphalt, the Labeda and Revison Asphalts are two that are regularly recommended. For smooth cement, Labeda Gripper yellows are wheels many players I know use for that surface. The best wheel I've used for Sport Court is the Konixx Pure (I use them in +2); the newer version of that is the Konixx Pure X (haven't tried that yet, but they're discussed in a wheel discussion thread). Personally, I spend the money on the good wheels for Sport Court, but just get the cheapest, hardest wheels I can find for outdoor use and if I'm ever on cement indoors I either use cheap wheels or very well used wheels that I've retired for Sport Court use. Bearings: Personally, I don't notice a huge difference in bearings as long as they're clean and spin. I've tried Swiss, Ceramic, Helo Quark, Abec 7, Abec 5 ect. In my opinion, either buy good bearings that have removable dust shields so you can clean and lube them on a regular basis or just buy the cheapest bearings you can find and replace them when they stop spinning smoothly. I notice a huge difference with high end vs. cheap wheels on Sport Court, but really don't notice a big difference with bearings. Some people swear by high end bearings though.