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You can put down an epoxy coating which will help a little but the best option would be to make or buy a shooting pad. I have done both, buying tiles and also making my own shooting pad. As long as you select the proper material there is no need to spend the money on buying one. Something like this would work nicely and is very cheap: https://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949?keyword=thrifty+white+board

The roller boot is very similar to the ice boot but there are subtle changes, such as the toe cap. I also think the roller boot is stiffer but that could be my TRUE rollers are newer than my ice skate.

Howdy, I wouldn't expect good results with paint. Many (most?) of the floor tiles can be driven on, etc. etc. Not sure what else you want to do there, but I'd have said that the floor tiles would hold up better than paint would to many / most "other activities". As a possible alternative.... Pucks won't slide that great on it, but it might protect your stick blade some... How about typical vinyl flooring / linoleum? You can get it pretty cheap (like $1/ft^2 or less). I don't think it would hold up anything like as well as a real hockey tile, but it seems like it'd be a lot better than paint... Mark

Well, you can get some basic tiles or a pad for a reasonable price. And depending on the condition of your garage floor, you may have a lot of prep work to do and you cant just put any paint down, so cost may be a wash.

Optimal is to use them individually, O1 is optimized for off-ice training while R1 is optimized for Roller Hockey. With that said R1 definitely works for outdoor training as well (with other wheels as you said), and will give you much more ice like skate feel than a traditional chassis, but it will not challange you as much as the O1 when it comes to off-ice training.

Just go straight thru the website. I used their tapered blades for a little while. They were decent. The only issue I found, which many replacement blade manufacturers have, is inconsistent blade and/or hosel lengths.

🤯 Finally something to get excited about!

I have the same setup, if the Step steel is straight before you put it in, it should remain straight.

Dealt with this all my life and helped many skaters thru it. The clinic most likely put you into a stance you are not normally in ie a little deeper in your stance. This extra pressure could have been the trigger point that caused your lace bite to elevate itself to a noticeable point. Lace bite generally doesn't happen immediately, it's micro trauma happening on the tendon and in between skates your body is trying to heal it. Time on ice, pressure on tendon, age, recovery capability are just some of the factors that determine how you get it and react to it. If you are getting it during the class it tells me that you are borderline lacebite the rest of the time ie enough pressure to have it happening but your body is just managing to keep it under control. How to fix it:- Bottom line is you have to get the pressure OFF the tendon, this is the most important thing to do for your long term skating health. Lacebite pads, unless they have a channel cut in them for the tendon to sit in, are a waste of time. The options I know that work are: 1: Option B laces. 2: Forsberg pads, downside is you have to tape them to the front of your ankle every time you skate. Make your own from 1/2" pipe insulation. 3: Boots that have enough volume. 4: A new tongue may help if it increases the volume in the boot (ie a thinner tongue) or if the tongue has broken down. 5: Drop eyelets or skate with laces untied 6: Eyelet extenders. the last option is the one I recommend to skaters, it is cheap, effective and you can use them on any skate. Now you can choose the skate that fit you the best everywhere else (retail skates) and then fix any volume issue.:

Hockey gloves. They use custom colors and logos. Definitely not something that anyone would want to buy that doesn't play for this specific association.