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Mimizk
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Everything posted by Mimizk
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mc88, Have you already tried to skate with 90/1? I'm considering to buy a xx/1 spinner for next, maybe 80/1, 85/1 or 90/1. Now I've been using 95/75. Very comfortable. I also want to get quick changeable holder and runner for the same thinking. Then probably I will choose Quikblade rather than Tuuk Lightspeed Edge because I've felt that Quikblade was developed on the supposition that to change the blade by the skater's self. I felt as so when I saw the pulling direction of the trigger or ease of edge release. Also it's better for me that it can provide us the edges by Step.
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Currently I've been using 90/75 and feeling very comfortable. Then I want to question that how do you think "xx/1" spinner? Before I touched with FBV, I had been thinking as that small = not heavy skater can use shallow = less bite sharpening. But FBV explain as that feather skater needs more bite rather than heavy skaters. Of course I understand that this is not such easy story. But I'm just curious, what type of skaters do they need "xx/1" sharpening? Yes, this is really abstract question. But it's hard to find a "xx/1" user even on this thread. I didn't satisfied with "100/50" or "90/50". Then I tried "90/75". I've felt that "xx/75" spinner fit for me than "xx/50". I'm usually 71~5kg (156~165pounds), not so heavy. Why I ask such this question because perhaps "80/1" will fit for me if my not heavy weight would make decision of that I felt "xx/75" better than "50". Anyone here who using "xx/1"? If there is, what type of skater are you? How is your skate settings? How do you think what type of skater having a possibility will like "xx/1" spinner?
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Yes, I've been considering about taking this method after I had seen this post and video. Your VH's dipped toe cap seems keeping very well condition. I'm thinking for my next boots to use only slightly leather, but uncovered carbon of almost area.
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Thank you mc88... Maybe to use new plastic toe cap is better choice but also I'm worried about its additional thickness. I keep wait arriving of your skate!
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Can anyone upload a picture of long time used plasti-dip toe cap? I'm considering to use plasti dip for surface of sidewall which would be touched with the ice when we do cross over. VH provide us new plastic toe cap or former leather and some small plastic piece combo for that. But I want to make my next boots possibly simple and lightweight.
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Last month I tried skate fender. I couldn't skate with it because of bottom-out. The leather of my VH's outside wall around fingers is also filed by friction with the ice. So I'm also interested in this new plastic toe cap. Or if it was too thicker, I think it's better to use paste coating as you posted. I've seen that CSW made their new punching machine which can punch out such traditional boots makers hard plastic toe cap.
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You have great presentation skills. But how do you think about the new plastic toe cap from view point of your current bottom-out problem? The new toe cap looks good but also thicker than normal carbon toe cap. Of course probably your 4mm up tuning will help the problem though.
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What is this coating? I'm considering to take almost carbon look, less leather wrapping for my new pair though, also I'm worried about this area's friction with the ice. Is this the same material as dip toe cap?
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Sweat. Can I see its boot bottom? I want to see how built in heel lift and new plastic toe cap works.
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I had used waxed laces for traditional skate boots. But now for VH, I've been using unwaxed laces. More than 10years I had used waxed laces only. So I didn't know that unwax laces consume its surface grip as such this fast.
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The sponge which I was given from ski boots fitter (also I've been using some custom Sidas insoles which were made by the man) was about 5mm thickness and put double sided tape. So I could put it on my bare foot and wear socks after that easily. The fitter said that if it doesn't use both side, there is a possibility that opposite part will be widened rather than the part which you wanted to widen.
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Everytime thank you mc88 But I use the sponge material when baking. Put sponge onto foot and after wear socks. The way is used at ski fitting shop. I also used the same way when I baked my VH boots.
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If we want to spread all of boots inside because feel too tight, it's better to wear extra sox additionally or choose thicker sox as mountain trekking/climbing purpose. Also if you feel tight section in part, put some spongy on your foot where the part and its opposite side as same then wear sox. If you put spongy only single side, it will break boots symmetry.
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Sorry I couldn't understand your sentences completely. But it's hard to slide your foot into your VH boot and at that time you have a pain, right? Almost people on this thread feel similar difficulty to put on VH boots. VH's Eyelet fin would not be open as the other traditional boots so it makes harder to put on. But if you got hurt, it's wrong. methosb has wrote you should bake your boots though, have you not baked your boots yet?
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I asked some questions to Scott last night. He answered the weight gain for the new plastic toe cap is slightly. At least it should not be over 30g. Then I wanted to make sure boots underside with the new plastic toe cap because I've been thinking to reduce this gap. He said the gap is reduced if we choose the new plastic toe cap.
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Thank you the good information! Also I want to know about the new plastic toe cap. How much it will bring additional heavy instead of normal carbon toe cap? I've been feeling that the 1st type VH skates have rivet problem. Its side leathher continue to underside of the boots though it doesn't cover all rivets. Only the foredest rivet is not covered so there is a gap which the same thickness as side leather between boot and holder. I want to solve this.
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The new plastic tendon guard is flexible as Mako? I've seen some pictures on this thread or twitter of VH though, it seems had forward angle. Maybe I don't like it if this couldn't be bent.
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Yesterday I had an icetime. The 90/50 was so good for recent soft ice! This is the reason why I want to choose FBV rather than BFD. BFD is 5kinds. FBV is 23kinds. There is a huge difference between BFD X8 and X7. BFD is hard to choose instead of ice condition. Afftondad, I want to say. To say only "bite" factor, definitely we can get some answer relatively easily. I agree with your thinking. It's better to decide edge depth number at first. Of course there are some numbers and factors which make "bite" without this number. Edge depth, /50, /75, /1(100) are just one of those. But we are thinking that probably edge depth is the greatest number of making it. If chose edge depth, after we just choose suitable front number. But people don't say exactly thing for choosing "glide". For example what is the best number for glide in these spinners, 100/50, 100/75 and 100/1? This question seeing glide from viewpoint of edge depth. Another, what is the best number for glide in these spinners, 80/ 75, 90/75 and 100/75? This question seeing glide ability from a viewpoint of bottom width to touch with the ice. And also, I've been thinking for long time that it's helpful if Blackstone write spinners' edge angles without the 2 numbers.
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I used these shin guard on the ice a few hours ago. The first impression was pretty good! Certainly I could feel added 40g but it might center around upper, knee area. The fitting is really good so I could skate smoothly than wearing former itech shin guards. But I thought there are some improvement points yet.
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510g.
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Thank you Afftondad, Now I'm thinking as here, 1) Spinner dresser roughen surface of grinding wheel. It will affect finished surface of edge bottom. 2) Smoothness of the steel much affect gliding ability. This is just a common sense of skate science especially speed skate world. 3) In smoothness order, ROH>BFD>FBV dressing. The condition of BFD spinner is better than FBV's spinner from this view point. 4) It's so difficult to say difference of each FBV spinners by explanation. If we want to explain it subjectively, just we have to use it.
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Thank you Mattc, Sorry guys, I don't like heavy boots. I don't have a taste to choose heavy boots than lighter. You guys wrote 100g is not matter. I saw some skate weight on the internet while I wrote current posts though, it was maybe about 400g. Really the weights can be training for you? Or 100g is not matter but 400 is much matter? Probably I can play more happier if skates go down around 500g! The feeling may be flying
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I'm considering the way to get smooth surface with FBV. A few months ago I talked with a president of a sharpening equipment company. He said he doesn't like spinner type dresser because surface of grinding stone would be roughened. So he doesn't like FBV and BFD either because flat bottom sharpening don't have the way to dress without spinner. Today I went to local shop and got sharpening with FBV 90/50 spinner. Long time I had used BFD X7 for my skates but I felt a need to change because ice condition have also changed to soft by summer arrival. I checked edges after sharpening. Definitely it was roughened. Compare both spinner of FBV and BFD, FBV spinner is smaller and rougher than BFD's. Also I used oil pass finish for this time sharpening though, I felt some roughen from finished edge surface.
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I can't understand exact meaning of these native English... But I trust my feeling because almost people I've seen who have experiences using MLX skates said that it was heavy for them if my memory is correct. If I can make my next VH under 750g with enhanced protection, really I will be satisfied with it.
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Afftondad, also I've read all of your past post on this thread and it was very useful and helpful sentences. I've been understood your logic. Because so, I wanted to say on my former post that this page says different thing from we often discussing. This page explain as narrow bottom width=touching smaller flat area with the ice would create less friction so we can get more glide. This explanation is not came from just "confused" as Afftondad said. Its saying is different radically from we are thinking.
