shoot_the_goalie

I assume even though helmet is custom molded, there are still adjustments one can make fore/aft, yes? I ask cause sometimes my hair is shorter/longer and sometimes I like my helmet snug and other times a touch looser than snug.

I have a Super Tacks X retail helmet that I got heavily discounted (more than 50% off) and I love it. Pretty happy with it thus far. However, I was in the LHS the other day and they had the Total Custom versions on display, and I was intrigued, so I tried the display model on and it felt even better than the retail version. Similar to the retail version, but with a much more snug and conformed fit (so I assume a custom model would feel even better). Then I saw the price....$580, not including tax and shipping (I guess they ship it to you directly once made). Also takes 8-12 weeks. The display custom did feel noticeably better, but not sure it felt $400 better. My question is that for those who have the Total Custom version. Is it that much better than the retail version to justify the price? If it was a game-changer, I could possibly consider it, but for what I personally felt with the display model, not sure the worth is there. Thoughts?

IIRC, the rare instances of fires occurred with a combo of the high volume sharpening with cross-grinding rings and dirty filters.

Tips: 1) use a convection oven if you can. Traditional ovens - the heat source is too uneven. 2) whatever is your goal temp, when the oven reaches that temp, TURN OFF the oven, then put the skate in. 3) Place skate (one at a time) in oven on a baking sheet lined with a dish towel. 4) only bake with cloth laces - never waxed for obvious reasons. 5) for my convection oven, since the fan is in the back, I always put the skate in blade side closest to the oven door. 6) do one skate a time and don't try to rush both skates.

I think they reduced the price $100, but don't quote me on that.

Beam sounds pretty cool, but not sure the value is there for $250 as a stand alone. A manual edge checker is pretty easy to use, and pretty precise for what's needed. The big play here is that good edge checkers are usually around $100 or more on their own due to economies of scale. However, now with 3D printing, one can print their own edge checker for relatively cheap.

I cut up my kids’ old gloves. 🙂

Barge cement is great stuff, but isn't it a risk for skin toxicity? I'm asking cause I know it uses pretty powerful solvents.

I use Loctite gel superglue. It works pretty well and adheres very well to typical glove palm materials. You do have to be careful not to use too much or you run the risk of making the fabric stiff. I find the gel easier to control in that respect. Works for me, but I am sure there's another type of adhesive that works much better out there. (i.e. fabric glue, etc)

Not OP, but I would say the thickness is similar to the thickness of the original palm material. The material is pretty durable (it's really meant to repair technical clothing). It's not as soft as hockey palm material, and yes, I would recommend adding a little more adhesive so the edges don't curl/roll. The other option, vs using these that I've done in the past, is to take old gloves, cut out their palm material, and use to patch with adhesive. Not as neat looking, but does the trick.

I use these too. They work great for minor repairs on palms.

What's the continued point? I thought the general consensus was that 1) hand sharpening by a skilled sharpener will be a better quality sharpening than a Sparx, and 2) the Sparx advantage is the convenience, speed, and consistency at the sacrifice of quality. These two things can coexist...and one is not better than the other depending on your circumstances and needs.

Don't get obsessed with power. Of course you don't want to shoot muffins, but speed of release and accuracy will beat power every time. So get a stick that feels good in your hands (Jr. vs. Int shaft), and then go with a stick length that allows you to do everything well equally if you play all positions. In general, that would mean cutting it to about chin height on skates. And as far as flex, I find that the feel when giving/catching passes is a good barometer for what flex you should use, not the half your weight thing (which is still a decent starting point though). Play "catch" with a hard passer - if your can feel you stick flexing when you catch a hard pass - probably too low in flex. If you're stick feels like a piece of metal when catching a hard pass and there's no give at all, go a lower flex.

Again, focus on fit. If you've been using Supremes all your life, you might not even fit into a Vapor to begin with. I personally can fit into a retail Supreme, but can't get my foot into a retail Vapor unless the Vapor is a wide EE model. Same with CCM. I can wear retail Tacks, but can't get my foot into a retail Jetspeed. (though from my understanding, Jetspeeds have gotten roomier in later models). So my suggestion, as others said as well, is go to the store, try on different brands, models, and see what fits you best. Don't even go into the store thinking you have to get one brand over another.

I don't know what to tell you.... Are you asking if Vapors make you more agile, and Machs make you faster, etc.? Is a mid-kick for slap shots (and defensemen), whereas a low-kick is for snappers (forwards)? IMHO that's all marketing, cause good shooters can rip slappers with low-kick sticks, and fast skaters can be super agile in Machs and vice versa. If you're asking for something that suits you best, then that's a different question. Sure, there's all personal preference and I understand that. I prefer mid-kick sticks, cause that's what I'm used to, but I can shoot just as well with a low-kick. But if you think by buying Vapors over Machs you're going to be more agile but lose speed (with fit being equal), then you're falling for the marketing jargon. Like I said before, the biggest difference in the product lines for skates is fit. Go with the one that fits you best, not which one promises more of certain skill attribute.

Pretty much all marketing jargon, but there are some differences in the actual boots. Mostly fit, but also some boots are stiffer in certain areas than others. However, I'm sure Connor McDavid will still skate like Connor McDavid regardless of which boot he puts on if you get what I mean.

I just lightly sanded the existing grip, wiped down with damp cloth, let dry, and then sprayed automotive clear coat over the stick. Worked great for me.

I find the Tacks blades to be historically the stiffest and most responsive of the CCM line of blades. They are "pingy", but I prefer that.

As some said, the benefit of the Sparx is consistency and convenience. I used to sharpen FBV on a Blackstone prior to owning a Sparx, and I loved it. Nothing bad to say about it and it definitely produced better/cleaner edges. Blackstone makes a great machine. BUT, you have to know what you're doing, it takes more time, and yet there were occasions where I would still mess up and have to re-do everything. Eventually, loading a skate, hitting a button, and walking away and getting a 9 out of 10 was much more worth it to me than spending more time fidgeting with settings, checking marks, etc for a 10 out of 10 sharpen. Not surprisingly, pro EQMs use both. Sparx to establish the hollow and then a conventional sharpener to get a final finish.

maybe spray a very light coating of 3M Super 77 on the palms? I remember when I used to play with a wooden stick, there would be kids who used a little pine tar. Not sure how that would work on composite sticks though.

@stick9 Try to find some FT1's on clearance or used. I think they may work with your pointy elbows. Though they may not give you the protection you're looking for.

Reviving this thread, now that I've had time to use an AS-V Pro for a bit. (so sort of answering my own question for the forum). I find the AS-V Pro is very comfortable to hold and I really like the new shape for stickhandling. However, I find the kickpoint not nearly as smooth as the previous AS lines, so it doesn't feel as effortless to get good shots off. Gotta really work to get power vs. previous gen. It could just be that I'm so used to traditional square shafts, but the kickpoint is definitely different. Feels a bit like the old Supremes. I did find I could shoot pretty accurate with it though. Also noticed that the curve (P88) is slightly different than previous gen.

Picked up myself a pair of the FT6 Pro pants, and while not game changing from the FT4 Pro pants I was coming from, I do like the small little changes they made in the interior padding. I also feel like the FT6 Pro is a bit more streamlined in fit, which I like. Not that the FT4 Pros were sloppy, just the FT6 Pros feel like a more "tailored" fit. As far as the AER-TEC; nope, found no difference in cooling between the two models.

I love my FT4 pro shoulders, but the only thing that bugs me with them is that stupid flap piece at the back of the neck. Always catches my jersey when I put it on.

I thought none of the manufacturers actually make a physical last of your feet for customs unless you're a special order (i.e. pro hockey player). I was under the impression that True used a 3D scan in conjunction with a base last and then adjust and build accordingly. I didn't think they actually make a physical 3D last from your foot scans. But again, I'm not sure of this.