shoot_the_goalie

I find that they never answer the phone, but if you email them with your contact info, they will eventually contact you.

Sparx Fire is ok. Nothing revolutionary. It's not better than FBV, but I switched to it cause the convenience of the Sparx vs hand sharpening on a Blackstone was worth it enough to me. FBV has better glide, but not THAT much better. Give and take.

From my understanding, it's not many cause it's a PIA for the EQMs, and the fact that the edges are more prone to being lost isn't very popular in the pro ranks. Only NHLer (past or present) that comes to mind is Cory Stillman.

Seems a bit excessive for him to be worrying about edge feel from tiny little nicks, etc. but if it affects his confidence, it affects his confidence. I use both Step Blacksteel, Step Stainless, CCM and Bauer steel in the family. I find the major difference is not it's durability, but how they sharpen. The higher end steel sharpens cleaner with less "fight" on the sharpener. Not as much de-burring necessary either. (with Blacksteel, virtually no burrs) But on the ice, nicks/gouges are gonna damage any blade. Remember, the edges are like microscopic and any trauma will mess up an edge. My best guess is that he's just dealing with more contact at higher speed...

It happens all the time, but like others said, it's not heavily advertised. I have gone into big box retailers and definitely seen lower prices on items than advertised on their websites. Not just with hockey.

From what everyone is saying, it sounds like it's a good product but not worth the price in comparison to regular stick tape. If it was incredibly durable and lasted for a long time, then I think I would purchase it for the price. Thanks all.

Hey all. Has anyone tried this product? https://www.rezzteknorthamerica.com I think PBH posted about this in the past, but it's now finally for sale to the general public. Pretty expensive, especially compared to tape. Wondering if anyone has any experience with it.

I used to use Superfeet, but when I switched to True, I just use the stock blue insoles (no red) and it's fine.

Hey. If putting on blockers means you never get hit in the foot again, I'm all for it!

These look awesome. And this company has top notch customer service.

Not to sound critical, but if a 5-6 year old kid is getting frustrated because he/she is a stronger player than the rest of the group...something has already gone wrong.

I use the UA mask, and it pretty comfortable when I'm on the ice, since it sits off the face a bit. I find it allows better ventilation and comfort than other masks. It does get wet and can exacerbate fogging visor problems, but I find that since it sits off your face, you don't feel the wetness of the mask when wearing it.

I love my RBZs too, and at least with CCM I don't think anything that came after it feels like it. Honestly, a lot of it I think comes from the crossover strapping. The closest thing that feels like RBZ unfortunately, is the Crazy Lite line before it.

Time of day matters somewhat, cause feet swell by the end of the day. So try to get fitted around the same time you typically play in relation to the store's hours. If you have your previous set of skates, bring them and show the fitter what you like and don't like about the fit. Make sure, in addition to the 3D scan that they take pics, and point out to the fitter any usual trouble spots or odd deformities that you may have. The more info you give them, the better.

From this, looks like the biggest difference is the separate knee panel on the 6000s.

Anyone know what the differences are between the two mesh socks?

It really isn't about the width of the post, but more about the internal structure and thickness of the post/the quality of materials in making the post. If you had a solid piece of steel (through the core), it could probably be 1"-2" wide and never dent, and conversely you can have a 4" wide post that's has thin walls that would dent easily from a street ball. With that said, I have a 2-3/4" post width net, and I shoot regulation pucks at it and it only dents with a very square hit. (I can shoot hard, but not pro hard) Cost about $180 from Hockey Shot. Hockey Shot also makes a net for about $450 that they claim can withstand 100mph shots. Another option is go to local rinks and see if they have any nets that are so beat up that they're willing to offload them. However, in all likelihood that's rare and you'll probably have to put a new net on, which is pretty tricky with official ice goals.

There is no evidence that I am aware of that waxed laces are more prone to causing damage to skates than unwaxed. If anything, though it's assumption on my part, unwaxed would cause more wear and tear on a skate because some might pull tighter on them to get a good fit, stressing the eyelets, and that they need to be re-tied more often over the life of a boot. Regardless, we're going off topic. If we want to continue this discussion, we should break this out into a thread about waxed and unwaxed laces....

Beautiful things about Trues (and I assume customs in general), is that you don't really need to tie tight at all. Not often, but every once in a while a lace will come loose during a shift (usually after some kind of contact), and I'll know the laces are loose, but can still skate in them and finish the shift with little detriment cause the fit is so good. I'll then tie them again upon returning to the bench. In the past, with stock skates, I would have to get a change immediately.

Some brands are better than others. I use Elite brand and never had the wax come off. But I have seen other brands become a cracking wax mess after short use.

I don't understand the dislike for wax laces on Trues. I get that the wrap is so good that you don't really need to tie laces tight, but I use waxed laces on my Trues, cause I want the pressure of the lace up very specific and I don't want that to change during a session on the ice. I also hate when my laces come undone, which is less likely with waxed. Even though I tie pretty loosely, I still prefer waxed. I would discourage those who use waxed though in order to crank their laces to make up for deficient fit. Just mho. EDIT: Waxed laces also help to repel water, so you don't have soggy laces, particularly after skating on wet or soft ice.

Personally, I would not punch the arch of the True boot. It's a one piece and you could risk cracking them at the arch. Plus, if the arch is that off that your feet are killing you, a spot punch isn't going to really do much. Punches are really meant for small hotspots. Does the arch pain feel like someone is stretching the arch to the point where it feels like its a strained/pulled tendon (pain over the length of the arch)? Or does it feel like someone is jabbing you in the arch (pain in a very specific point of the arch)? If it's the latter, that's solvable. If the former, I think you'll have a hard time getting these to work with you as they are currently constructed. True should allow you to make a one time rebuild (after you LHS has exhausted all fit solutions), so you could go down that avenue as well.

Sorry for the double post, but also keep in mind Trues still need a break in period. For me, it was much quicker than retail cause of their malleability when baking, but they are still very stiff skates and don’t feel really comfortable until about 3-4 hours of hard skating imho.

Just a suggestion before you give up: -take the super feet out (they could just exacerbate the problem). Take the red insoles out and just use the blues. Wear super thin socks and have them rebake the skates. Have them bake them good (I mean the boot should be soft, not just warm) and then have them put on your feet and laced up about 90%. Tie them like you would when skating, so if you keep the bottom laces loose, top laces tight/loose, etc. and tie to top outlet. Do not Saran Wrap this time and do not have them mold it by hand either. Just sit there and let your feet do the work. Then after baking, don't skate on them for 48 hours. Finally, change out the laces with waxed laces. PHL should do the re-bake for no charge, and the most this would cost you is a new pair of waxed laces. It's very possible, from what you're describing, that they are wrapped too much around your foot and causing a bit too much friction/not enough give in spots. Switching to waxed is so your wrap stays in place, when you "loosen up" the current wrap.

For those who have a blade holder, when you sharpen steel in the Sparx, do you prefer to sharpen steel in the skate holder or the Sparx blade holder. What would give you more even edges? (I assume the blade holder)