Davideo

Not necessarily. You can tie the bottom tightly and then loose at the top and those differentials should stay with waxed laces. Of course you won't get further flex with waxed laces, but it should be stiff at the bottom and loose on top. Depending on exactly what you are looking for, it is unlikely to be a good solution, but when talking about dropping a grand on skates, an $8 test might be worth it. As someone who liked the amount forward flex on mid-grade '90s Tacks, all skates available today don't have much forward flex to me.

Have you tried playing around with lacing? Such as waxed laces tight on the bottom and loose up top? Or very stretchy laces?

Me too. I never notice any change in shaft performance, the blade goes soft after a few months. Though it's about 50/50 whether I break the blade first or it breaks down internally.

Not sure if you are understanding the point flip12 is trying to make. Look at the shafts of the sticks in your gif. You will see that the shaft moves considerable, making the image very difficult to make an accurate comparison on blade. My apologies if you are understanding that. Ultimately whether a blade difference is significant or not depends on the individual and their preferences.

With respect to curves, either get used to a new one or fight the trends via custom, pro-stock, two-pieces, etc. It just got to annoying for me to find PM9s so I transitioned to an 88. As far as why the push to toe curves, the old man in me will shake my fist on the porch and drone on about kids these days just wanting to toe drag and then go bar down in tight to the net. The pragmatist in me will just adjust to a new curve and then be sure to duck if I'm behind the net and a young gun is winding up in the slot.

I've heard it described as a way to help with lace bit by creating additional volume, however, that is flawed thinking. It can change slightly where the laces pressure your foot. I have heard persuasive arguments that it can make laces more or less likely to loosen depending on which way you do it. But the type of laces can make a much bigger difference in this regard. In summary, I've never heard of any significant difference and it seems mostly personal preference. They may be additional reasons that I haven't heard of or am not recalling at the moment.

Yes, like I already said, I can just look at the specs, but then my question of "However, how much does any of that really matter?" Of course this is personal opinion, but would like some feedback/opinions on if this matters and why/how much.

I'm wondering about differences between the TF7 and TF9. I found a little discussion earlier in thread, but 37 pages is a lot to sift through. Clearly I can see the on the specs of lighter weight, carbon fiber vs fiberglass, different tongue, etc. etc. However, how much does any of that really matter? The TF9 is nearly double the price of the TF7 so it seems like it would need to be pretty substantial and it appears to me the differences are more minor. The back story is that I'm picking up some TF7's this weekend (already fitted and baked just don't want to start the 30 day period yet just in case), but I want to make sure there isn't some large advantage to the TF9 that I'm missing.

Normally yes, but I live in the middle of nowhere.

Thank you, this is good info. I'm thinking total weight is probably a good gauge of dent strength. The Hockey Shot $180 weighs 45 lbs and the "indestructible" weighs 80 lbs. I may end up going with that $180 one.

My apologies if this isn't the right forum. I'm setting up an outdoor rink and need to get a pair of goals. I know from my youth 20 years ago that ice hockey pucks just dented the posts on the metal goal I had at the time. It looks like 2 3/8" is the post thickness of legit ice goals. I see a small amount of conflicting info online about the suitability of 2" thick posts for on-ice use. Zdeno Chara is not going to be showing up, but there will be some skilled adults with shots probably hitting 70+ mph. 2 3/8" goals are more expensive and harder to locate. Is that necessary, or can I get away with 2"? Or I'm open to any suggestions. Thanks.

I have a front loading washing machine that I use for shin pads. If you want to be extra careful, I second using a tub or bin and soaking/handwashing.

Possibly, but I would not consider those "key assets" to be very equivalent. For example, Ovechkin, the face of the franchise, is different than a declining Braden Holtby (.897 in his last season with the Caps). My opinion based solely on speculation is that term is likely to be the sticking point between Ovi and Caps, if there is one.

Yeah, my first thought was pros who have a lower face injury. Small market though. But maybe bigger than those who want to be chirped...

Z2 used to be called Laurin and I picked up a Laurin NOS bag on eBay half a dozen years ago. It's a tank and looks barely used after at least a few hundred trips to the rink and has skate pockets, which I like. Downside is that it is yellow and purple, but people just assume I'm a Kings fans and like their retro colors. Also very easy for me to spot in the locker room.

Serious question, how often are people typically adjusting their helmets? I adjust when I first get it and then never again. Or am I doing something wrong?

CCM also used to have helmets with full ear protection. They were typically known as dorky helmets for little kids/new players. As has been discussed, simply having a more protective helmet available doesn't mean that they will be used.

Love that you grouped Mexico and Salt Lake together.

Very tough question. I'll have to go with a Jofa 381 cage, which I still use twice a week. I have a little mini collection of those paired with CCM HT2/652 helmets.

So three shifts? 🙂

Can you find used versions of the Mission helmets you liked? I don't know details, but if you are just playing non-check adult, I wouldn't be concerned with an older helmet.

I would not get a used stick unless it was very inexpensive. If possible buy previous year's models, clearance options, etc. to save money.

Yep, exactly what I've experienced. I've switched to buying one at a time to maximize the chance of warranty replacement if it has a quick hosel break.

I love it. Though actually I've had a couple aluminum shafts split at the hosel. But I then just sawed off the split part, put in a longer wood butt end and you're good to go. But yeah, it's basically a piece of rebar.

I don't know if this sort of data is available, but I don't know how much shoulder pads necessarily help in that sort of situation. Growing up a kid a few years older than me got hit in the chest with a puck while wearing shoulders pads and his heart stopped and he died (I will caveat that this was in the '90s and shoulder pads have improved). As I understand, incidents of heart stoppage due to a puck to chest are incredibly rare. Sure, you can take the, "if it can save one life" sort of attitude. But at the same time you might as well wear your helmet while driving to rink as I would guess that is more likely to save your life than shoulder pads preventing heart stoppage from a puck to the chest, particularly if your car is older and doesn't have side airbags. Edit: I did some brief research and found this article: https://www.chicagotribune.com/investigations/ct-chest-protectors-commotio-cordis-standard-met-20160408-story.html. It focused on baseball mostly and summarized that there is no indication that chest protectors or even special heart protective gear reduce the risk of commotio cordis (apparently what it is called). The articles claims about 10-20 cases in the US, mostly younger boys, and is rare in adults. And the best solution seems to be immediate access to an external defibrillator to restore proper heart rhythm.