VegasHockey

They work ok, but it really depends on where you store your gear/skates. If its in a cold garage, nothing is going to really help. I would also suggest not putting your skate any place too hot to dry out at that also can lead to premature breakdown of the skate materials. I personally hang all of my gear in a little locker I built in my garage that has a space heater and a few fans that circulate the air. It is thermostat regulated and keep the locker at 70 degrees. AFter I skate I always take all of my gear out, spray it with a mixed solution of alcohol, water, and tea tree oil. This helps the gear dry out faster while also killing all of the bacteria but its not abrasive enough to damage the plastics and foams. Apply a very small amount as you don't want to saturate your gear. The mix I use is as follows: Add 1 cup of plain water, 1 cup of rubbing alcohol, and 20-30 drops of a powerful essential oil like lavender or tea tree, both have antiviral and antibacterial properties. Put it in a clean spray bottle and shake well before using. I find as long as I immediately take my gear out after skating, hang it, and spray it, I can go months without having to clean any of it aggressively.

Same. Usually 2-3 at most.

Between the Kuch and Pasta, I prefer the Pasta personally. But it has to be the real deal.

There are a TON of those individuals around these parts. It amazes me how many people are suckered, they go to some random dude to get their skates sharpened in his garage by a a self proclaimed guru of skate sharpening who has legitimately no clue about the science and art behind it. I take pride in every sharpening I do, no matter if it's for a kid playing in-house club or a AAA player going to nationals. Anyway, enough of my whining and lamenting.....

It blows my mind that people think ALL visible/exposed steel needs to be sharpened. This is how people end up with banana blades. lol

1: You don't need to go so high on the toe/heel when you sharpen. You are never skating on those areas of the steel. 2: You can use it to fix an edge in a pinch, but don't over use it as constant use bends the steel edges inward which will then require more passes to repair.

From what I can tell overlaying them on one another, they are the same.

The wheel is hitting too high. Lower it.

I personally have never had any issues. I wear my shins under the tongue and don't pull my socks over the tendon.

Should be a #9 copper rivet, like these: https://blackstonesport.com/en/product/9-copper-rivets Ace Hardware sells them. If you flare the rivet after hammering it it won't ever come lose again.

I noticed a pair of skates Clayton Keller was wearing recently at Coyotes practice that had extra rivets added to the holders. I wish I would have snapped a picture of it.

After you replace the rivet you should flare it, this will prevent it from ever coming out again.

The ones Scott makes are better and cost less. Prices are in CAD. https://wholesaleskatesharpening.com/product-category/skate-hones/

ProSharp makes a great product but their customer service honestly sucks in North America. They are spread too thin and definitely need more help.

I own multiple sharpeners. ProSharp, Blademaster, and Sparx. I personally sharpen my skates on the ProSharp when at the shop and on SParx when I am home. No preference really better the, just whatever is easier to access. I am happy with the performance and finish of either option. I personally do not use the Blademaster on my own skates as I want to keep the profile as long as possible. We do have many customers that demand a big machine sharpening, and we are happy to do it for them, but we also try to educate them why the ProSharp and Sparx are a good option. I never say one is better than the other, as that's personal preference, but I will happily list the pros and cons of each.

OMG. Yes it will. I love their machines but the fact it rotates the opposite way drives me nuts and I cannot sharpen on them.

Pics of the Pasta vs P28 and TC4T.

This is for those who have never heard of Hydrox.... https://foodcrumbles.com/hydrox-vs-oreo-cookies/

FBV 100/50 and the X7 are not really the same, per se. Same as the Sparx FIRE 5/8 vs these as well.

Im honestly not a huge FBV fan as I have never really noticed much of a difference. I guess if you skate on a more aggressive hollow it would be more noticable but at 3/4" - 1" I see very minimal benefits.

If the shop doesn't share with you the specifications they used to apply the current profile there really is no way to determine a combination radius and if any additional pitch has been added. If the steel has enough life left I recommend flattening it and then applying a fresh profile. The downside to this is it burns up a lot of steel and I really dislike wasting material. I see this mostly from people who use NoIcing and such, stores who don't like to share any information on a profile applied, which really makes my job overly complicated.

It's basically the same as the Alkali Hockey model, TRON owns Alkali. Everyone I know that has one hates it and says they are heavy. I would not recommend it. https://goodgear.com/products/alkalirpdquantumhybridshield

+1

I don't slide, per se, I just don't like my feet to be able to squiggle around at all.

You can spray them with this. I do it with most of my insoles. Also prevents them from absorbing water too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Automotive-15-oz-Black-Truck-Bed-Coating-Spray-248914/202097787