sturdy22

I have been in this scenario with my skates and my sons. I started with the profile and was always able to get it dialed in. My Mako, supreme and Vapors all feel the same all with different holders. For reference, The stock CXN holder and steel on the makos where perfect for me. what is the weight difference between a Mako and TF9 in a similar size?

No problem. I don’t know anything about the holder sizing on makos in a 6.5. Those could be the odd size that came with 263. I assume yours were D width? I have been looking at the TF9 or TF7 for myself once I my makos are done. I had a pair of second hand VH customs in a 8.5 EE that I couldn’t get my foot in so the stock pairs interest me. I’m way past the days of needing custom made skates

Merry Christmas. i liked reading you experience with the sizing of the TF9 I have also heard similar accounts. as far as the holder sizing, almost all of the skates that my sons have worn (Bauer and Reebok/CCM) in a 6 - 6.5D have all been mounted on 254s out of the box. 263 holders were mounted on the Bauer’s starting with the size 7. my mako 2 in 8EE have 272 and my makos in 9 have 280s. holder sizing seems to be consistent.

My sons (14,17) and I have the Nasty and the Reign LT shafts in Polar Fiber and we like them a lot. I’m not familiar with the Stealth CX so I can’t compare the two shaft shapes but these are as good as anything I’ve ever used. My garage is full of everything from Easton and Bauer to Warrior/Innovative and TPS. The Base shafts are very similar if not the same as the early Warrior/Innovative shafts. Makes sense since the guy behind Base is the same guy who sold Innovative to Warrior.

This helps, thank you.

That would be great. I’m in Southern California, between San Diego and Los Angeles.

We have two pairs (Med & Lrg) of R1s. Both pairs are 76-76-80-80 as recommended and neither are that close. I assume you’re running same set up on medium or large?

Usually just a chunk of glue. If you remove the blade or end plug it will fall out. Or heat the end where the particle is. If it’s glue it will melt and you won’t hear the rattle.

I have my lightspeed/edge steel done at 9’ and a +4. I have been doing that since the custom/custom+ days. I am not sure what the +4 is equivalent to. Depending on the boot I will also add lifts/heel shims. I have several pairs of skates and my vapors are good at +4 without lifts but I need shims on the supreme. Makos with the CXN holders were perfect without adjustments. i currently have two pairs of makos. One pair with Epros that have been profiled (I don’t know what it is but it works) and a pair with edge holders that I am using 9’ With +4 steel. i have moved from Alaska and it is now harder to find a shop in California to get the profile I need. I also would like to know what +4 is equivalent to.

We have a pair of R1s (medium) also held up in Germany. Our large set was delivered about two weeks ago. Waiting to mount both at the same time.

The O1 uppers are left and right specific and the lower half universal.

I preordered large and medium R1’s. I’m planning on putting the large on a pair of 8.5EE Reebok’s.

I got the same. Im guessing week 33 is around the 2nd week of August?

That would be on the mount from edge of heel to edge of toe.

If you are talking the O1, the medium is about 26cm in length and will be too small for a Bauer boot that size. I have all three sizes of the O1 and the large fits perfectly starting on a size 8 Bauer boot which is about a 43D.

I don’t know if the 80s will fit, I’ve never tried on mine. I don’t know if going with that set up will benefit you. The idea behind the flow motion is to maintain contact of all wheels while allowing the “rocker” of the boot.

I don’t know if you’ve tried the original (O1) but it is unlike anything “Roller” I have ever tried. I tried it all and still have tuuk rockers on a pair of Nikes from 2002.

I have personally never adjusted the frame spacers. The only time I have ever loosened or tightened was when I disassembled and reassembled during installation.

I’m really curious about it also.

The T nut on the upper bushing is beefed up slightly and is flat on the sides so you can hold it it place while loosening. The original T nut was just round so if you loosened too much it would just spin unless you held it in place with downward force.

Even tight there is movement. Similar to a kingpin and bushings on a skateboard truck. I prefer a lot of movement. I would say start tight and loosen to your preference.

I have heard that also. But did read, maybe here, that a insert may be made available that will be closer to the original in motion. Still looking forward to trying the new product either way.

No, Normal wear you would expect. They’ve been on them since 2017 and during that time Marsblade did upgrade the center bolt system so we swapped those out. But compared to their teammates on traditional chassis’s? no difference in durability. And really, ice hockey has been using plastic holders for decades. We do have the R1s on preorder

I have only used the advanced set up (smaller in front) so I don’t know the difference. I do like the way my stride feels thru the toe of my skate with the set up, but could feel the same with all wheels the same size. Both of my sons play competitive roller, though not lately, in their O1s. My youngest (13) likes the smaller wheel in front but my oldest who is 6’3” and 200+ likes all the wheels to be the same size. He feels more stability on turns with all 4 wheels the same size and making contact with the surface.

I don’t know anything about the Alkali boots but it looks like the R1 uses the Revel 1 boot and the O1 uses the Revel 2. There are review videos on the Revel line on YouTube. We ordered the R1 chassis at $99 for my sons to try for their roller games, they have been using the original without problem. I will probably stay on the O1. I have only used ice boots outdoors (southern California) and I’ve never had a issue.