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sturdy22

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Everything posted by sturdy22

  1. I still only use two piece sticks. I can’t tell you if the intermediate TPS shaft will work with a senior blade but the intermediate warrior shafts we have use senior blades. Putting the stick together is easy. Heat the glue on the blade and then heat the bottom 2-3 inch’s of the shaft evenly. The concave sides of the shaft will expand to fit the blade tenon. Just remember to let the shaft cool before flexing. If by chance there is some movement of the blade tenon in the shaft put some tape over it before reinserting.
  2. I have the R1 large measurement at just over 10 3/4” in length. I can’t get a pic to load but the one skate with the over hang is a mounting issue. if the chassis was moved back about 2mm the R1 would cover the entire outsole of the boot.
  3. I’ll measure when I get home and I’ll see what I can do for a pic. I prefer the O1 as I don’t play competitive roller and have my set to my oldest son. Both of my sons have both the O1 and R1 and they only use the R1s for anything competitive. The best way I can describe is the R1s are very smooth in turns and not as “on rails” feeling as traditional chassis’. I just prefer the extra motion I get from the O1s but I also prefer ice over roller.
  4. I have a pair of Large R1s on a size 8.5D vapor APX and I have a slight overhang not really noticeable. I think you would be ok with a large on a 8.5EE CCM. I can put a tape measure on the R1s when I get home if you would like an exact measurement.
  5. If you don’t plan on returning the boots just drill the vent holes. I’ve added vents to my trues, just use a bit that’s the same size as the vents on you other pair. Use a bit for composite materials that is sharp to avoid splintering.
  6. I have 4 vent holes in my skates, a pair of converted ice Vapors and a pair of APXR. I have never run into a problem with sweat dripping onto my wheels, chassis or the playing surface. I go barefoot.
  7. Coming from makos I am interested in the flex tendon guard. there is next to no flex in the TF9/7 that I have.
  8. Yes I’ve studied all the available documents on here and gathered as much info on the new Catalyst. The softer boot and flexible tendon guard is what interest me the most. In comparison I prefer the tech mesh vapors vs the full composite offerings from Bauer. I still wear my x7.0/X90s. it is the eyelets that are cutting into my feet when putting them on and I’ve resorted to using duct tape. Wearing even thin skate socks don’t feel right. In reality I am not skating much outside of coaching and running hockey camps so I don’t really need a high end skate I just want something to eventually replace the makos that I can wear for multiple hours a day. I’ve had three pairs of Trues (customs, TF7/9) and they just might not be the skate for me.
  9. I go barefoot, almost 30 years now, and yes I’m twisting the boot. Spots are the same on each foot specific to putting on. No problems once on my feet. These TF boots may just not right for me.
  10. Yes I flared at the top and also at the 5th/6th eyelet where I’m getting the most trouble just putting on.
  11. I currently have two pairs of Mako 2s. A pair of 8 EE on E-Pros and a pair of pro stock 8.5D left /9D right on CXN holders. The makos are the perfect skate for me in terms of fit and stiffness. I don’t know what the steel is profiled to on the EPros but they are pitched forward and comparable to the CXNs. I recently picked up a pair of 7.5 Wide TF7 and a pair of 8 TF9s on sideline for real cheap in hopes of having a skate that will replace my makos. sizing is all over the place. The 7.5W are perfect after the bake but I have a high instep and they tear my feet up putting the skates on when they’re cool. And they are so stiff. The 8 feels too roomy in comparison and they’re also tearing up my feet putting them on. Lacing is also a pain in the ass due to the stiffness of the boot. I have CXNs on the trues and they don’t feel like the makos. I have my own riveter so I am able to swap holders around. I am hopeful that the catalyst are a little softer of a boot and I am interested in the flexibility of the tendon guard. The TF7/9 tendon guard has no flex.
  12. I have had 3 sticks repaired through Integral stick repair. One was a upper shaft repair and two others were mid shaft. the repairs cost $50 each One was a 75 flex Warrior Alpha DX Pro that I found in the trash and the other two were 80 flex tapered shafts. I did notice maybe a slight change in flex, 75 now feels like a 80 and the 80s feel closer to a 85. If I was using the stick not knowing it was repaired I don’t know that I would know the difference. I have been playing for 40 years and I still prefer the feel of a two piece stick.
  13. I don’t know about advantage, but I liked the aggressive (forward) pitch of the CXN holder and stock steel. I have CXNs on a pair of mako 2s and a pair of TF7s. both pairs feel the same pitch wise I don’t know the radius or profile of the stock steel. Coincidentally I also have a pair of Makos with Epros that have a similar feel. I have tried to replicate the feel on tuuks with 3mm heel lifts but I haven’t found the sweet spot yet.
  14. Nice find. I picked up a couple of pairs of Mako IIs in the last year. I have a pair of Trues that I’m trying to dial in currently.
  15. You may find a couple holes that line up, but you will have to drill new holes in your boots. Ice and roller.
  16. I won’t be able to answer that question. I haven’t found a true OPS I like. The two piece sticks and the modern true one pieces have a different feel. As a older player I prefer the feel of the two piece. For me the true one pieces have a tingy plastic feel. I still have and use Easton and warrior tapered shafts and blades. Maybe check prostockhockeysticks.com
  17. Retail synergy would be 2000s. Easton in the early-mid 90s would be aluminum. I still use a two piece and those original synergy’s were just a fused (tapered) two piece.
  18. Depending on what the inside of the boot looks like you can nip off 3/4 of the prong so it will grab the inside of the boot but not damage the inside part of the skate outsole. I’ve had to do this on several occasions and never had a problem.
  19. You can do it yourself with 6/32 pronged Tee nuts and SS screws. About $20 from a hardware store. I’ve done this over two dozen times with my own skates and my sons, ice and roller. You only need 8 per skate (4 back & 4 front). They won’t feel any different and are strong. I have my own skate riveter now but my younger son (18UAA) is still using his pair mounted with Tee nuts. This will allow you to try the holders on a separate boot before committing to a full mount from a pro shop.
  20. I Put an order in last night for my son and myself. With a extra discount, ended up being $148 for the holder and an extra set of steel with shipping/pair. Plus after mounting (I have my own riveter) we will get $35 back per pair. So when it’s all said and done $113 for each pair. We both have the original ice holder. I only use mine for coaching but my son has been on them for two seasons and this will be a third. Started as a oversized 263 on a size 6 boot and we just keep moving them to the next sized boot, currently a 7.5. He is playing 18AA as a 15 Year old and the holders are holding up well. We are looking forward to using the new version.
  21. Looking at the pic. that is a significant difference in size.
  22. Medium is approximately 10.25” large is approximately 11” both are measured while mounted. The medium is on a 6.5 Reebok ribcor boot with about 3-4mm of space on the heel and toe of outsole. the large is mounted on a size 8.5 vapor 800 and covers the entire outsole.
  23. Are we talking O1 or R1? We have both versions in both medium and large
  24. I had a order of blades delivered in mid April. I’m in California and ordered through the US site.
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