stick9

I don't think you can completely eliminate hits to the head. Even on a clean hit there is a chance to make contact with the head. Part of the problem is players don't really know what's leagal or not and you hear them say as much. On another note, how can you be serious about reducing hits to the head and still allow fighting? The principle point of contact is the head...

I don't think it's comfort or mental. It crap techinque and poor mechanics. Sticks that we find work are forgiving enough to make up for those things. Also, when did the Nexus become a variable kick point? Stick has always been a straight up kick.

Hard to say cuz you never know what they are actually using. Those guys can play with just about anything and play well. That's why they are where they are. I try to ignore what the pro use and focus on what works for me. But I admit, seeing a bunch of guys using the Jetspeed prompted me to try them at MSH events.

Oleksiak challeneged Wilson after the hit, Wilson wouldn't go. The Pens GM publicly called him a coward. This was the first time Wilson faced Pittsburgh since. That said, Oleksiak got what he asked for. The league has gonna bit overboard with the suspensions. You have guys being suspended for plays that we're minor penalties or not called at all. Hockey is a contact sport. Not every hit to the head is intentional or worthy of a suspension.

Maybe they view eyelets like laces, replaceable. It doesn't sound like they save a lot per skate. If you factory in all skates across all lines. Its probably a decent chunk of change for them.

That's was my assumption all along. Fairly decent idea. You don't have to buy plugs, mess with heat guns and glue.

I'd fill the old holes in the boot first than drill new holes. Less chance of the bit moving around on you. Thinking you could possibly make a mounting plate that would rivit to the boot using the existing holes (or completely different holes). Then use t-nuts for the holder to the plate. That way if you don't like it you can safely go back to stock. Just thinking out loud.....

I saw some 70k's on sideline done up the same exact way. You may want to hit him up for royalties.

Could be adding to the problem. Anyone who's skied knows the key to staying warm is staying dry, that includes sweat. I'd start looking for some smart wool socks made for skiing. Theyll help with wick the moisture as well as add some warmth.

#1 what you are describing isn't uncommon. Try loosening up your laces at the forefoot. Get them snug but not tight. If you have proper heel lock this shouldn't matter. The other area of pain could be lack of depth, improper arch support or simply getting used to new skates/skating. #2 sounds like a form issue, bending at the waist instead of the knee. Could also be lack of proper core strength. Both of which will wreak havoc on your lower back.

Here's the issue the sub $100 hockey stick is not exclusive to Lumbr. Every major brand offers something at that price point. Most of which offer something fairly decent in the $150 range. So why am I buying a Bison (who I have never heard of until about 3 minutes ago) when I can get a CCM, True, Bauer or Warrior for the same price? Honestly, if I only had $99 bucks to spend on a stick. I would care more about durability than I would performance. A popular brand with a reputation would probably be the safer play, and one I could go to my LHS and pick up whenever needed.

Dave is definitely on the mark here. A great room can make even the worst game or season worth it. I played on a team that was pretty toxic. The guys were good, but there was quite a bit of drama surrounding some players moving on. It wasn't fun, neither was my role (just chip it out and go for a change). I really didn't want to play so I know where you're coming from. Finding a group you truly enjoy playing with is important.

How about a Coaches Corner or a Ask the Coach thread - Essentially a dedicated thread where players of all ages can pop in and ask questions and get answers from guys who actually coach the game. I'd suggest coaches in this section would need to be vetted and mod approved. With all the home sharpeners, maybe an updated DIY thread focused on things like sharpening and profiling might be a nice add. A beer league section. Members can share experiences, share ideas for uniforms and problem solving. Now I know many of these things already exist, but they are spread out in different sections and aren't pinned. Some of the threads have great info but are hard to find, like the shop locator for example.

Not even Gritty can fix that mess. Has there been a team more screwed up in net than the Flyers...

I was about to ask, good thing I searched. The CT800 is said to be a true one piece design weighing in at 419 grams. Those are elite type numbers. My question is how do they compare to elite level sticks of a few years ago, say 1st gen Tacks, early Nexus 1N's or Supremes? Better yet, how do they compare to pro-stocks? I'm seeing them cheaper than $149 on sideline. Might have to experiment for myself.

I would say yes it is.

I've heard similar when asking for a 9' profile. Kid was like "man you older guys love that 9' profile". You've heard of dad rock...the 9' profile is the dad profile LOL.

I won't argue the point, just saying thats not what I have been told. I had to guess, the change in sound and finish could be due to the wheel removing more material when making contact higher up. The sound and texture could be that excess material being stuck to the wheel early on in the pass. To me an increase in pressure or force to the blade would cuase you to experience those things for the entire length of the first pass. Again, don't want to argue the point as I am only the middle man.

Hmm, gonna have to check that out. I knew how it hit the toe would be affected but was fine once it got to the flat. @colins No change in pressure applied to the steel by adjusting the height. I confirmed that with someone on the inside.

Correct, the height adjust simply sets where the wheel makes contact with the toe/heel. There is no change in the pressure applied to the blade during sharpening. As it's been explained to me. Due to the natural shape of the blade, sharpening with the toe to the right allows you to set the height higher and sharpen further up the toe. If you're curious, manually move the wheel to just before it would make contact with the steel in both directions. Either way, it does not affect the actual sharpening. You're still getting two passes per cycle.

Maybe yes, maybe no. In the end it's True's product on his feet and their reputation. They gave the shop the tools and the training to use it and they built the skates. They can do right by then customer then put pressure on the shop to get their crap together. @smu I can't tell you how to handle the situation, that's up to you. Im fairly certain you are entitled to some relief. Paying full price for this disaster is a flat out screw job.

Holy shit, you paid for an holder swap that True screwed up in the first place. Not only that, they screwed up your skates once, they tried to band-aid fix the same pair with foam and masking tape. Honestly, you're getting screwed. True and your LHS should be eating the cost of the skates and refunding your money for the holder swap which should have been free in the first place. They should be apologizing to you, not the other way around.

@smu I'm curious, who's paying for this little disaster? I certainly hope you got a hefty price break. Just curious, you don't have to share if you don't want to.

Should be noted. I found the QR Pro to be heavier and a bit more bulky. The QR Edge version was more to my liking, even with the added cost.

Neither. The spine pad is much thicker than other pants I've worn, so much so that it sits snug against my back. Which is good because it stays with me as I move. Just not what I am used to.