stick9

@Ryan91330 After playing a bit more with the p30. It plays pretty much what you described in your initial post, aka a less open p28. It's not a widely popular pattern so getting one on the cheap to experiment with may be tough. I ended up getting a Tacks 9080 from IW. Figured that would be easier to flip it if I totally hated it.

Hard to say exactly what it is. I need more time with it. But, follow through does seem to be a factor.

I recently picked up a P30. As a devote P28/W28 user I wanted something that wasn't as open. Side by side, they are very much alike, rocker and lie are very close as well. They play differently. The 28 is just a flick off the toe and it's top corner. The 30 requires a bit more technique. I'm still getting used to it and I haven't played a CCM in a few years.

Steel: Tydan Edge 246mm Hollow: 3/4 ROH About me: Skating in general has never really been an issue. There are some aspects of my skating that could use improvement, nothing that prevents me from getting where I need to go. I'm playing three nights a week, two pickup sessions and one C level men's league. I've tinkered with different hollows and methods (FBV, Z-Channel & ROH) looking for an advantage, mostly improved glide. No profiling except the LS3 I had about 4 years ago. I’m currently rotating two sets of steel. The first set is stock Bauer LS4 profiled to a Quad 0 by Shayne from Pro Sharp, the second is stock STEP Edge. The Tydan listed was purchased for this program. The stock STEP profile will be my control set. Review: First time out was an hour and a half of public skating. My first thought was they felt long…much longer than what I am used to. It took me a good 20-30 minutes to adjust to it. Straight line speed and glide was good. Stability seemed to be improved. However there was something odd with the toe. It’s as if the profile forced an exaggerated toe flick at the end of each stride. I could hear it but I couldn’t tell if the toe was sliding out or digging in. Going a bit deeper into my knee bend made the profile work a little better. I did need to work it a bit harder in and out of the corners. My second time out on this profile was a session of pickup, another hour an a half of ice. Totally different impression of this profile in that setting. The profile didn’t seem as long as it did before and the exaggerated toe flick I experienced in the earlier session was either gone or no longer noticeable. I had to work a little harder getting in and out of turns. Mobility: 2.5 Stability: 4 Speed: 3 Acceleration: 3 Other profiles on deck: 9.5/10.5 9.5/50mm/10.5 Quad 1 I reserve the right to change/alter/modify my scores based on further testing

When you skate on a 3/4, anything below 5/8ths is deep.

Yeah, I figured as much for you.

I'm more surprised at the amount of people skating on such deep hollows.

Hi Mike and welcome to MSH. I know the question about STEP Edge was already asked and answered. Do you have any idea when those Bauer patents/trademarks expire? Also, how are companies like Massive, Tydan & Bionic able to sell Edge steel when STEP can't?

I do 2, sometimes 3 passes at the end of the week, skating 3 days a week, 5-6 hours total. My edges are still fairly good at the end of the week so I rarely need to do that third pass. Ring life has been really good so far. I suspect I'll get somewhere close to a year from a single ring. I had skated on the Sparx product before buying the machine so I was fairly confident in the results. The area that made me nervous, was me, the operator. I always say the machines biggest drawback is the sack of meat operating it.

The difference when when checking toe facing vs heel facing could be due to the steel not being completely flat. Most steel even the higher quality steel is stamped, so it can be bowed ever so slightly. I see a slight difference in mine when I check both my Step and LS4. It's less than the thickness of the line so I don't bother. Try reversing the steel in the machine and do a few passes. Maybe the alignment is off a tiny bit.

Use the leather strop on coated or polished steel. https://www.sparxhockey.com/products/sparx-honing-kit Haven't tried one, but this looks really cool. https://www.hockeylion.ca/collections/step-steel-hockey/products/step-blacksteel-clay-skate-stone

@MCornell a pitch issue can be easily and permemently solved with shims. Check the MSH Pro shop. I believe JR does shims.

The middle one looks awfully close to the old Smyth pattern from Warrior.

I'm interested as well. Hope we have time to visit Al and Peg. 😉

Unfortunately you'll need to try and see for yourself. They may look and seem like what you want but could play entirely different. Maybe the thing to do is compare all three side by side in person.

@Ryan91330 check out Warriors W71 pattern. Stats are different but side by side they are fairly close, main difference being the angle of the face.

Duct tapping your foot isn't a long term fix. Maybe moleskin on the inside of the boot would be a better option.

@Sniper9 https://www.amazon.com/Povihome-Protector-Sleeves-Bunions-Hammer/dp/B01MXYDYHU/ref=sr_1_5_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1549567502&sr=8-5&keywords=pinky%2Btoe%2Bsleeves&th=1 They work wonders.

Not sure that does anything to improve the heat molding process.

I think I got to a point where everything was comfortable and protective so why change. This crap ain't cheap. At some point you say, new elbow pads would be nice, but not $150 nice. These days, I tend to buy out of need rather than want. I did however treat myself to a new helmet (Tacks 710). I just wanted a new one. Nothing overly exciting. I still have a soft spot for sticks, gloves and skates. If you took the cost out of it. I'd probably have a wall of sticks a half dozen pairs of gloves and a couple pairs of skates.

Never experienced that. I would make sure the ring is fully seated and seated evenlly. A side by side with a known good ring give you a clue as to what might be wrong.

Consider the Jetspeed pants. It's a tighter fit all around, like slim fit jeans.

Umm, the internet... 😁 Seriously though. There are a fair amount listed on Sideline.

Maybe I am reading this wrong. The difference between LS2 and LS2.1 is not the grade of steel or even the profile. It's the length of the runner.

More so, why would someone pluck down the cash for something they don't like or don't believe in.... As to the point about adjustments. When you buy skates that are sold to you as being custom made to your feet. Dosn't that come with the impression or a certian level of confidence they will fit perfectly, if not, shouldn't it? I mean, what's the point of buying them if they have to be "adjusted", "tweaked" or "dialed in"? If they do require work afterwards, are you really getting what you paid for? Isnt it fair to question that? This is the problem with offering something like this to the masses. How many people actually need custom made skates opposed to those who want them simply because it's unique...