stick9

Meh, I'd steer clear of solvents in general. Anything that breaks up adhesives like you've described is going to be pretty nasty, may even damage the composite in the process. Best bet, just keep chipping away at it by hand. I find a dremmel tool with a sanding cylinder makes pretty quick work of that sort of stuff.

@bunnyman666 These the mitts in question?

Warrior pro bag here. One of the small mesh pockets is ripped at the bottom. Other than that it's in great shape and I air travel with my gear twice a year. Been using it since the fall of 2015.

Screw that. Get yourself a pro player bag and be done with it.

Those guys who are really really good show up wearing ref pads or shit that's literally falling apart. Those are the guys who look silly. If that's all you can afford, fine. But when you buy new shit thats barely suitable for pond hockey, that's when it gets silly. Newer players aren't always 100% sure what they need in terms of protection. It's better to go overboard and not need it.

Could be the new DX build...

I wouldn't be to sure about that. We have people buying custom skates when they really don't need them. I can totally see someone ordering a couple sticks and picking the players pro pattern thinking it's the retail pattern, or close to.

Kind of hard to tag an overall winner when each brand has a model or two that offers excellent bang for the buck.

I reached inside and pushed the alignment wheel in closer to the centering guide. And yeah, one pass won't be enough. You could try the marker trick. Sharpie the hollow, do a pass and see if there is any marker left in the hollow.

I've been using buttendz grips for about 6-8 months. Never had an issue with the grip moving around. I've even moved them from stick to stick. I always use the spray they supply and let it dry for a full 24 hours, maybe that has something to do with it.

I don't want to get too far off topic here. If you start out thinking you cant do this or aren't allowed to do that, well, you'll never innovate. Depends on the industry i guess.

Steel: STEP Edge 246mm Hollow: ¾ ROH About me: Skating in general has never really been an issue. I’ve always been able to get to where I need to be. I started skating a young and grew up on a lake, so plenty of ice time in the winter. There are some aspects of my skating that could be better. I have had issues with decreased agility and lack of overall stability in the past. Normally I rotate two sets of steel. The first set is stock Bauer LS4 profiled to a Quad 0 by Shayne from Pro Sharp, the second is stock STEP Edge. When I started this program I purchased a set of Tydan from the pro shop here at MSH. The stock STEP profile will be my control set. Review: My hope was this profile would be very similar to the stock STEP profile, with a bit more agility. That wasn't the case. I spent an hour and a half on them at pickup. I knew pretty quickly this profile was not going to work for me. I stuck it out for the duration of the skate but I’m not giving them another shot. I had a hard time finding my balance point. It was like skating on steel with no flat. This greatly reduced my over stability as well as my speed. Mobility seemed OK but forward to backward transitions were a bit of an adventure. The same goes for any backwards skating. Acceleration was about average. I didn’t feel as though I got any real power out of my stride though. My take, my 246mm steel is just too short for this profile. I am fairly confident with longer steel this profile would have worked pretty well. Maybe the version with 50mm flat will yield better results. Mobility: 3 Stability: 2 Speed: 2.5 Acceleration: 3 Other profiles on deck: 9 | 50mm | 10.5 Quad 1 No further testing planned for this profile

Best resource I've found for pro stock codes. http://www.sports2k.com/forum/index.php?/topic/15186-pro-stock-stick-codes-what-do-you-have/ If you aren't sure what you are getting, ask the seller for the code. Though I have seen sticks (Kuraly pro stock) that do not have a code or flex on them, could be on the inside I guess.

If you measure from the center. If both holders use the same rear mounts, wouldnt one be longer by the full amount, no? 4.5mm is less than 3/16ths of an inch, not sure someone would feel that.

They changed to be more inline with Bauer a few years back. The numbers aren't exact, but they are pretty close, a few mm off. And BTW, the easiest way to tell if they were mounted properly would be to pull the footbed and look at the holes for the rear tower. If they didn't drill new holes, then it's off by 9mm.

At this point, just put the factory installed 263 holders back on and go with a longer profile. Saves the boot from the scrap bin. The shop should sould toss in an extra set of steel for the hassle. FWIW, 263 on a 7.5D seems about right, 272 on a EE. https://www.hockeygiant.com/support/Bauer_Tuuk_Holder_and_Runner/pg_id/20211

Marsblade is a Swedish company. Their videos include other Swedish players such as Marcus Johansson and Nick Backstrom. You know who else is Swedish, Nick Kronwall. Do I need to do the math here......

Yeah, don't do the math. You're playing the long game here, unless you are sharpening for friends who pay.

Honestly, it should be fairly easy. Either blade or shaft are built to accept whatever other part selected. My guess is, they make the blade to match the shaft. And by blade, I bet they are talking about the portion that hits the ice.

I'd need to have a slapshot to actually tell LOL There are some subtle differences. The sweet spot is a little different. Shots don't go as high as easily. I think accuracy may be a little better, not sure. It's like anything else though, a pattern or stick won't make up for bad form.

@Ryan91330 After playing a bit more with the p30. It plays pretty much what you described in your initial post, aka a less open p28. It's not a widely popular pattern so getting one on the cheap to experiment with may be tough. I ended up getting a Tacks 9080 from IW. Figured that would be easier to flip it if I totally hated it.

Hard to say exactly what it is. I need more time with it. But, follow through does seem to be a factor.

I recently picked up a P30. As a devote P28/W28 user I wanted something that wasn't as open. Side by side, they are very much alike, rocker and lie are very close as well. They play differently. The 28 is just a flick off the toe and it's top corner. The 30 requires a bit more technique. I'm still getting used to it and I haven't played a CCM in a few years.

Steel: Tydan Edge 246mm Hollow: 3/4 ROH About me: Skating in general has never really been an issue. There are some aspects of my skating that could use improvement, nothing that prevents me from getting where I need to go. I'm playing three nights a week, two pickup sessions and one C level men's league. I've tinkered with different hollows and methods (FBV, Z-Channel & ROH) looking for an advantage, mostly improved glide. No profiling except the LS3 I had about 4 years ago. I’m currently rotating two sets of steel. The first set is stock Bauer LS4 profiled to a Quad 0 by Shayne from Pro Sharp, the second is stock STEP Edge. The Tydan listed was purchased for this program. The stock STEP profile will be my control set. Review: First time out was an hour and a half of public skating. My first thought was they felt long…much longer than what I am used to. It took me a good 20-30 minutes to adjust to it. Straight line speed and glide was good. Stability seemed to be improved. However there was something odd with the toe. It’s as if the profile forced an exaggerated toe flick at the end of each stride. I could hear it but I couldn’t tell if the toe was sliding out or digging in. Going a bit deeper into my knee bend made the profile work a little better. I did need to work it a bit harder in and out of the corners. My second time out on this profile was a session of pickup, another hour an a half of ice. Totally different impression of this profile in that setting. The profile didn’t seem as long as it did before and the exaggerated toe flick I experienced in the earlier session was either gone or no longer noticeable. I had to work a little harder getting in and out of turns. Mobility: 2.5 Stability: 4 Speed: 3 Acceleration: 3 Other profiles on deck: 9.5/10.5 9.5/50mm/10.5 Quad 1 I reserve the right to change/alter/modify my scores based on further testing

When you skate on a 3/4, anything below 5/8ths is deep.