iammerson 19 Report post Posted March 19, 2013 its a frame of a mission boss and just rubed with steel wool til the graphics vanisheddoes it compromise the frame at all? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler Roy 86 Report post Posted March 19, 2013 Nope. Just takes the graphic off.does it compromise the frame at all? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iammerson 19 Report post Posted March 19, 2013 Nope. Just takes the graphic off.nice where could i find some? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
darmin 2 Report post Posted March 20, 2013 Any painting store, It works like a super super fine sandpaper. Another more time consuming method I used in the past is a cheap gritty toothpaste and cheese cloth. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iammerson 19 Report post Posted March 20, 2013 Any painting store, It works like a super super fine sandpaper. Another more time consuming method I used in the past is a cheap gritty toothpaste and cheese cloth.But the steel wool doesn't scrape the frame itself at all? That's awesome. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnr032 11 Report post Posted April 9, 2013 this may sound like a stupid question...But why does everyone say use 6/32' tee nuts....Aren't they just 3/16' Tee nuts? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fcvapor05 1 Report post Posted April 9, 2013 this may sound like a stupid question...But why does everyone say use 6/32' tee nuts....Aren't they just 3/16' Tee nuts?6-32, not 6/32".Small machine screws are sized by gauge and thread pitch- i.e. 10-24, 10-32, 8-24, 8-32, etc. First number is screw diameter, second is thread pitch. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bnr032 11 Report post Posted April 9, 2013 well that would explain it, but im certain i saw someone write 6/32 on another forum somewhere. either way i could only source 3/16 so they seem to be working fine (not doing roller conversion, but replacing a broken holder.)it should be noted in australia it would mean posting boots and products away and getting them back a couple of weeks later, as there is zero people locally to do it (the local rink i dont even trust sharpening my skates) Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
fatwabbit 93 Report post Posted April 10, 2013 well that would explain it, but im certain i saw someone write 6/32 on another forum somewhere. either way i could only source 3/16 so they seem to be working fine (not doing roller conversion, but replacing a broken holder.)it should be noted in australia it would mean posting boots and products away and getting them back a couple of weeks later, as there is zero people locally to do it (the local rink i dont even trust sharpening my skates)Do it yourself! I've been mounting skates in my garage for over 4 years using teenuts and bolts. Let me know if you need any help. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
boosterbosch 2 Report post Posted April 12, 2013 Just got my RBK 8K skates converted to rollers, local shop was selling the RBK Labeda frames for $49 so couldn't resist.All in cost for frames, conversion, bearings and wheels was $150 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
romdj 26 Report post Posted April 24, 2013 Didn't do it but got these a couple of months ago, I figured for the guys that don't have access to tools such as rivet machine or else this could be a simple & straightforward but nevertheless practical & durable option. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TeamBlue96 3 Report post Posted April 24, 2013 Interesting. I guess you used locktite on the bolts? Also -- can you feel the bolts under the sole? That would really bother me. Nice self-jobber though! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted April 24, 2013 I've done a conversion using counter-sunk screws and self-locking nuts once, didn't feel those at all - they are flatter than the T-nut version which you can feel a little bit but stop to notice after a few minutes. I suppose these screws here are hardly noticeable once the insole is in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
romdj 26 Report post Posted April 25, 2013 Interesting. I guess you used locktite on the bolts? Also -- can you feel the bolts under the sole? That would really bother me. Nice self-jobber though!Nope I don't feel a thing, they are the xxxx footbeds which have some sort of carbon fiber underneath. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shute 4 Report post Posted April 26, 2013 Oldtimer's latest conversion and what could be one of the most expensive conversions to date!! 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted April 26, 2013 Nice..........APX2 & rivets, and what I assume is a Mission Mag 76-76-80-80 frame? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
salibandy 21 Report post Posted April 26, 2013 Those skates look tiny! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler Roy 86 Report post Posted April 26, 2013 Yup. Not the new Mission frame with the new cutouts but still the 80 80 76 76 wheel set up.Nice..........APX2 & rivets, and what I assume is a Mission Mag 76-76-80-80 frame?Size 6.5Those skates look tiny!Cant wait to see what the APX2R skate is going to cost. APX cost was 799.99 and APXR was 849.99 - APX2 cost is 849.99 so APX2R cost might be 899.99? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EBondo 232 Report post Posted April 29, 2013 Oldtimer's latest conversion and what could be one of the most expensive conversions to date!! Wow. Those are amazing Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted April 30, 2013 What do you guys think about converting an X:50, the outsole is described as "Full texallium composite" and should be less stiff than the carbon outsole on the X:60 - would it be stiff enough to support an inline frame for a ~80kg (180lbs) advanced level skater? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
the_game 452 Report post Posted April 30, 2013 What do you guys think about converting an X:50, the outsole is described as "Full texallium composite" and should be less stiff than the carbon outsole on the X:60 - would it be stiff enough to support an inline frame for a ~80kg (180lbs) advanced level skater?You'll be fine with that outsole mounting a chassis on it. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lilliz 0 Report post Posted May 10, 2013 (edited) Picked up my latest conversion last week, i have played 2 games with them and so far they are delivering what i want!Bauer Supreme one100Labeda Hum'er EvictionLabeda AddictionBsb Swiss Edited May 11, 2013 by Lilliz Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mickz 107 Report post Posted May 12, 2013 ^^ Nice! I am actually thinking about doing a similar set up. Why are the rivets from the LS2s still in the forefoot though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldtrainerguy28 478 Report post Posted May 15, 2013 I have some goal skates I am just finishing up. post pics tomorrow. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tyler Roy 86 Report post Posted May 15, 2013 Might have just used them to plug the old holes. Not sure why he didnt just use plugs and epoxy to cover the old holes.^^ Nice! I am actually thinking about doing a similar set up. Why are the rivets from the LS2s still in the forefoot though? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
