Cutting your stick

[Jarick 5]

Hacksaw - $10

Mitre Box - $5

Piece of hockey tape - $.05

Rasp file - $5

Cutting a nice flat straight edge...not priceless, but worth the $20.05, especially if you have some of those tools laying around.

Wood sticks are even better, two seconds with a mitre saw and file the edges smooth.

[SouthpawTRK 1]

So I cut the stick, took a while. Guess I don't have the right technique just yet, but it came out solid :) ! Highshool open hockey today was a bust in the sense that no one showed up. It was litterally just me for an hour and 30. Whack, I know.

I spent a lot time shooting though. I use howies hockey tape and it never has any wear and tear. Today it did, that's how much I shot today.

Glad to hear that the stick modification went well; technique will come with repetition. That's too bad that no one else showed up for your high school open hockey (although having a sheet of ice to yourself is not necessarily a bad thing). How was the SE16? Hopefully it's a positive change from your last stick.

[ndlancer95 0]

Hey, have a question. Will a sawzall cut a stick well? Im changing from defense to offense and want to shorten my stick abit to work on dangles Thanks

[Dakotax 0]

Hey, have a question. Will a sawzall cut a stick well? Im changing from defense to offense and want to shorten my stick abit to work on dangles Thanks

I would stay away from that. They are meant to chew through all materials quickly and easily, not necessarily nicely, and clean cuts.

[IniNew 53]

Hey, have a question. Will a sawzall cut a stick well? Im changing from defense to offense and want to shorten my stick abit to work on dangles Thanks

I would stay away from that. They are meant to chew through all materials quickly and easily, not necessarily nicely, and clean cuts.

Just take some sandpaper after the cut and smooth it out a bit.

[Speedz98 15]

SE16 was a huge improvement :) . I was using an Int. Z-Bubble two piece with a Synergy Elite blade Iginla curve.

My SE16 is a 75 flex Grip LH Drury

Se16, much lighter, much more response. I warmed up with a few slapshots and I was cracking up cause i've never had the puck fly off my stick like that before. No wobbling in the air, solid saucer.

The focus weight technology, verty noticeable. When they say the SE16 is trying to replicate the feel of a wood blade, they mean it. It does feel as close as u can get to a wood blade without actually using one. The puck felt real solid on my blade. I didn't ever take a shot and accidently leave it behind because I couldn't feel it. I always knew where it was on my stick. I was def. picking corners better than I ever have before.

Would have felt better if there was an actual goalie to shoot at though, then I would be able to measure my self better and how shooting would actually be when some one attempts to stop the puck.

I highly recommend the SE16 to people who want a quality stick for stickhandling and passing, as well as good performance for shooting.

[sm326 0]

Hey, have a question. Will a sawzall cut a stick well? Im changing from defense to offense and want to shorten my stick abit to work on dangles Thanks

I would stay away from that. They are meant to chew through all materials quickly and easily, not necessarily nicely, and clean cuts.

Just take some sandpaper after the cut and smooth it out a bit.

have you ever used one of these before? its made for heavy duty materials (such as sheetrock). if you use it on a hockey stick you could wind up with a stick flying somewhere. only power tool i recommend to cut sticks is a chopsaw (or if you can get clamps at the right spot a circular saw or jig saw). i dont recommend the other ones unless you have used power tools safely and are comfortable around them.

[SouthpawTRK 1]

SE16 was a huge improvement :) . I was using an Int. Z-Bubble two piece with a Synergy Elite blade Iginla curve.

My SE16 is a 75 flex Grip LH Drury

Se16, much lighter, much more response. I warmed up with a few slapshots and I was cracking up cause i've never had the puck fly off my stick like that before. No wobbling in the air, solid saucer.

The focus weight technology, verty noticeable. When they say the SE16 is trying to replicate the feel of a wood blade, they mean it. It does feel as close as u can get to a wood blade without actually using one. The puck felt real solid on my blade. I didn't ever take a shot and accidently leave it behind because I couldn't feel it. I always knew where it was on my stick. I was def. picking corners better than I ever have before.

Would have felt better if there was an actual goalie to shoot at though, then I would be able to measure my self better and how shooting would actually be when some one attempts to stop the puck.

I highly recommend the SE16 to people who want a quality stick for stickhandling and passing, as well as good performance for shooting.

Thanks for the feedback on the SE16! Sounds like a great stick!!!

[Chadd 916]

Hey, have a question. Will a sawzall cut a stick well? Im changing from defense to offense and want to shorten my stick abit to work on dangles Thanks

I would stay away from that. They are meant to chew through all materials quickly and easily, not necessarily nicely, and clean cuts.

Just take some sandpaper after the cut and smooth it out a bit.

have you ever used one of these before? its made for heavy duty materials (such as sheetrock). if you use it on a hockey stick you could wind up with a stick flying somewhere. only power tool i recommend to cut sticks is a chopsaw (or if you can get clamps at the right spot a circular saw or jig saw). i dont recommend the other ones unless you have used power tools safely and are comfortable around them.

Using saw blades that were not designed for cutting composite materials will frequently splinter the material, especially on the inside of the shaft. If you aren't using a cutting wheel instead of a blade, there's a good chance that you're damaging the shaft.

[sm326 0]

Hey, have a question. Will a sawzall cut a stick well? Im changing from defense to offense and want to shorten my stick abit to work on dangles Thanks

I would stay away from that. They are meant to chew through all materials quickly and easily, not necessarily nicely, and clean cuts.

Just take some sandpaper after the cut and smooth it out a bit.

have you ever used one of these before? its made for heavy duty materials (such as sheetrock). if you use it on a hockey stick you could wind up with a stick flying somewhere. only power tool i recommend to cut sticks is a chopsaw (or if you can get clamps at the right spot a circular saw or jig saw). i dont recommend the other ones unless you have used power tools safely and are comfortable around them.

Using saw blades that were not designed for cutting composite materials will frequently splinter the material, especially on the inside of the shaft. If you aren't using a cutting wheel instead of a blade, there's a good chance that you're damaging the shaft.

with my hacksaw im using a fine toothed saw blade (bi metal blades from harbor freight tools 10 blades for $5). with a jigsaw, if you keep the shaft (location you are cutting) clamped right near the end of the table (maximum of about 1.5" from the end of a table). as well as mid shaft and towards the blade, you will be beyond fine while cutting it. it will have the support from the table. With a chopsaw its a tad bit trickier. if you look at the chopsaw, it has a guard rail near the back. place wood blocks on the saftey to keep that guide and support the shaft with one hand while steadily pressing the saw down in a somewhat fast speed (going too slow will just chew up the shaft like you stated). when im home, i tend to use the chop saw for my sticks because they cut a clean straight line.

[raganblink 82]

I love how there are 34 (now 35) replies on how to cut a stick.

Seriously guys, kinda over-kill lol.

[furlanitalia 1]

Definitely overkill, but pretty awesome.

I used a hacksaw earlier, just a fine tooth blade. Would love to have a guide so I could've gotten my line straighter. Oh well, I was in a rush.

[Chadd 916]

I've seen a ton of damage done by chop saws with wood blades. You have to have something with small teeth at a minimum, but a cutting wheel is preferred.

Same goes with hacksaws, the finer the teeth, the less likely you are to splinter the inside of the shaft.

[redwingsfan93 0]

i was cutting my stick and actually broke the saw blade lol, probly just a fluke but i thought it was pretty funny

[Jarick 5]

I think they're discontinued, but my dad picked up some of those Black and Decker VPX rechargeable power tools, they're like a lower power small version of real ones that all use the same battery. Anyway, there was a little reciprocating saw that works great for this stuff.

[sm326 0]

One of those multi function things that works off of a rapid vibration? I could pick one up at harbor freight for about $30 (Chicago brand though). I don't trust it because the company is a low quality company and cheap tools tend to be extremely unsafe. the Chicago brand heat guns for $10 seem to work pretty well though.

[jrhky36 1]

i use a dewalt 12" miter saw w/80 tooth blade. i always wrap a piece of masking tape over the cut line and go slowly down. i found that if you go slowly you have just about no rip out and get a great cut.

i'd stay away from chicago power tools. my father in law had a hammer drill die on him after drilling 5 hole in concrete. those tool are a joke and a waste of mioney.

[sm326 0]

Its cheap brand tools which are usually just smu products for that specific store. Ive had this heat gun for about 3 years and its still going strong. i picked up a spare one because they're only $10 and it doesn't hurt to have the extra anyways.

[metalwinger13 1]

I cut the end of a couple of my sticks last night on a vertical band saw. seemed to work great.