Skoda10 14 Report post Posted November 30, 2015 Anybody with a semi wide forefoot and low arch care to comment on the comfort of these?I'm considering a pair but I'm worried about volume and pain in the balls of my feet.Vapors are way too narrow, supremes were better but still had some pain, I'm in Tacks now and have no pain but can't get my heel to stay locked in. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmic 178 Report post Posted November 30, 2015 On 11/29/2015 at 4:14 PM, mjpisat said: I have volume issues in mine too. Trimming the side of the tongue really helps? What did you use to trim it?I'm so mad. Baked me be again after a year of use and created a problem area that never bothered me before on the inside of my right foot around the ankle bone. Read more I used the scissors with a little curve on the end, cutting away from the tongue itself. The key is to leave to a little bit of felt, because the felt seals the tongue inside, about 1/8 cm off of the tongue, if that makes any sense. In other words, cut too close to the tongue, and you can see a strip of tongue that is exposed. And yea it helps alot. There is alot of volume of felt that I got rid of, and I am not busting out of the forefoot as much. On 11/30/2015 at 11:29 AM, Skoda10 said: Anybody with a semi wide forefoot and low arch care to comment on the comfort of these?I'm considering a pair but I'm worried about volume and pain in the balls of my feet.Vapors are way too narrow, supremes were better but still had some pain, I'm in Tacks now and have no pain but can't get my heel to stay locked in. Read more Plenty of us are busting out in the middle, failing the (eyelet) pencil test miserably. It does not seem to matter though. I have horrible pain on the under/ outside of the balls of my feet in almost every pair of skates I have tried on, except Mako/ Mako II and my inline skates (Mission V10 Revolt or whatever they are called- the white with yellow laces and rainbox hologram). I can go all day in my Makos though, and no pain. I also never have pain in sneakers or walking barefoot, just in hockey skates (Reebok, Bauer, CCM, etc.). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cosmic 178 Report post Posted November 30, 2015 Figured it would be easier to just show you what I was talking about, in a video:https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ZL0nCLkUHs&feature=youtu.be Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chadd 916 Report post Posted December 1, 2015 On 11/30/2015 at 11:29 AM, Skoda10 said: Anybody with a semi wide forefoot and low arch care to comment on the comfort of these?I'm considering a pair but I'm worried about volume and pain in the balls of my feet.Vapors are way too narrow, supremes were better but still had some pain, I'm in Tacks now and have no pain but can't get my heel to stay locked in. Read more I have an extremely wide foot and probably could have pushed the D width out far enough when baking. I went with EE, just to be safe. You should be ok with the arch as well, you can always add part of an insole if you need to level it out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skoda10 14 Report post Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks for the responses, sounds like it would be worth it to check them out. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gdl188 4 Report post Posted December 1, 2015 Hey guys, I've had these skates for almost exactly a year- coming from about 6-7 years of Vapor line usage. I am having some fit issues although I do have to admit that they fit better than most skates and certainly better than the APX's I'm coming from. So for the most part, things are going well. The main thing is that I am not sure I am completely for the extremely aggressive pitch. For some reason I just don't feel as solid on my feet as I do in Vapors. So as a result I have been thinking of swapping out the CXN holder for some Tuuks. I have spoken with one pro shop guy who I respect and he said he's done it before and it's gone well- he just said that he may have to add something or do something (speak that was over my head) but promised it wouldn't mess with the integrity with the boot. I am a bit of a novice when it comes to the construction of a boot so does that response make sense? I know several pros wear Mako's with Tuuks so is this something I can also do or would others on here absolutely tell me not to make the switch from CXN to Tuuks? If it is the case that I should not loose the CXN holder is my only option then to look into the Step Steel for the Mako to help make them feel better? If it can be done, would making the switch from CXN to Tuuks make the skate feel more like a Bauer/Vapor in terms of feel on the ice, particularly with stability? I'm just looking for anything people have to say. And if the answer is that I can swap them out and that I should if I choose to do so, do the holes line up perfectly or does anything need to be modified or finagled? Thanks for any and all responses. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Albert1754 0 Report post Posted December 1, 2015 (edited) On 11/30/2015 at 11:29 AM, Skoda10 said: Anybody with a semi wide forefoot and low arch care to comment on the comfort of these?I'm considering a pair but I'm worried about volume and pain in the balls of my feet.Vapors are way too narrow, supremes were better but still had some pain, I'm in Tacks now and have no pain but can't get my heel to stay locked in. Read more I think my foot is similar to yours. I was in a Bauer Nexus 7.5 before, now in Mako 2 7.5 EE. I tried the Vapor but definitely too narrow. The Mako fit after baking is good, but I still never feel like "OMG Most comfortable thing in the world!" feeling others have said in this thread. I don't know, maybe I just fit a Nexus very well. Definitely feel the aggressive pitch and better energy transfer than my lower end model Nexus.I also swapped out the default Mako insole for the Graft low arch insole and that seems to be working. Edited December 1, 2015 by Albert1754 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chadd 916 Report post Posted December 3, 2015 On 12/1/2015 at 11:01 PM, gdl188 said: Hey guys, I've had these skates for almost exactly a year- coming from about 6-7 years of Vapor line usage. I am having some fit issues although I do have to admit that they fit better than most skates and certainly better than the APX's I'm coming from. So for the most part, things are going well. The main thing is that I am not sure I am completely for the extremely aggressive pitch. For some reason I just don't feel as solid on my feet as I do in Vapors. So as a result I have been thinking of swapping out the CXN holder for some Tuuks. I have spoken with one pro shop guy who I respect and he said he's done it before and it's gone well- he just said that he may have to add something or do something (speak that was over my head) but promised it wouldn't mess with the integrity with the boot. I am a bit of a novice when it comes to the construction of a boot so does that response make sense? I know several pros wear Mako's with Tuuks so is this something I can also do or would others on here absolutely tell me not to make the switch from CXN to Tuuks? If it is the case that I should not loose the CXN holder is my only option then to look into the Step Steel for the Mako to help make them feel better? If it can be done, would making the switch from CXN to Tuuks make the skate feel more like a Bauer/Vapor in terms of feel on the ice, particularly with stability? I'm just looking for anything people have to say. And if the answer is that I can swap them out and that I should if I choose to do so, do the holes line up perfectly or does anything need to be modified or finagled? Thanks for any and all responses. Read more You could have the steel profiled to have a less aggressive pitch. That would give you much more control over exactly how much less forward pitch you end up with. Buying an extra set of steel and having them profiled would be cheaper than having new Tuuks mounted and with two sets of steel, you could experiment very easily. Swapping steel is extremely easy and straight forward with the CXN. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gdl188 4 Report post Posted December 3, 2015 On 12/3/2015 at 5:46 PM, Chadd said: You could have the steel profiled to have a less aggressive pitch. That would give you much more control over exactly how much less forward pitch you end up with. Buying an extra set of steel and having them profiled would be cheaper than having new Tuuks mounted and with two sets of steel, you could experiment very easily. Swapping steel is extremely easy and straight forward with the CXN. Read more Hey Chadd, thanks for the response. If I did that would it also be worthwhile for the new steel to be the Mako Step Steel since it already has a less aggressive pitch? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iammerson 19 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 How much does profiling usually go for? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJPhil 19 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 On 12/4/2015 at 2:11 AM, iammerson said: How much does profiling usually go for? Read more I paid ~ $33 to have my skates profiled (dual radius) and that includes a FBV sharpening. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted December 4, 2015 Soon....... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iammerson 19 Report post Posted December 6, 2015 On 12/4/2015 at 1:36 PM, NJPhil said: I paid ~ $33 to have my skates profiled (dual radius) and that includes a FBV sharpening. Read more Sorry not very familiar with profiling. Can profiling the steel help with how aggressive the pitch is on my makos. Or would I be better of just putting on new holders and runners? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IPv6Freely 2100 Report post Posted December 6, 2015 On 12/6/2015 at 11:47 AM, iammerson said: Sorry not very familiar with profiling. Can profiling the steel help with how aggressive the pitch is on my makos. Or would I be better of just putting on new holders and runners? Read more Yes. I had mine profiled to a slight negative for just that reason Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iammerson 19 Report post Posted December 6, 2015 On 12/6/2015 at 1:54 PM, OptimusReim said: Yes. I had mine profiled to a slight negative for just that reason Read more Awesome should I look into getting new steel to do this? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
NJPhil 19 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 On 12/6/2015 at 6:13 PM, iammerson said: Awesome should I look into getting new steel to do this? Read more You can get your existing steel profiled, unless you were planning on switching steel or there is not much life left on your existing steel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 Finished product:Replaced all of the t-nuts as they were getting badly corroded.Next time I have to pull them off, i'll be ordering some stainless steel hardware. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Chadd 916 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 On 12/3/2015 at 6:06 PM, gdl188 said: Hey Chadd, thanks for the response. If I did that would it also be worthwhile for the new steel to be the Mako Step Steel since it already has a less aggressive pitch? Read more If you are thinking of doing that, I would try the step steel first. If that isn't enough, then have it profiled. Once you are comfortable, have the easton steel done to match. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry54 243 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) On 12/7/2015 at 4:19 PM, sparky1 said: Finished product:Replaced all of the t-nuts as they were getting badly corroded.Next time I have to pull them off, i'll be ordering some stainless steel hardware. Read more For the next time, I suggest you get truss head machine screws. They have bigger diameter heads so you don't need to add washers. Edited December 7, 2015 by Larry54 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) On 12/7/2015 at 8:32 PM, Larry54 said: For the next time, I suggest you get truss head machine screws. They have bigger diameter heads so you don't need to add washers. Read more I can't find any that I would want to use. I don't really trust phillips head screws just because there's a risk of stripping it out with the improper sized bit.The current screws I use take a T20 torx bit to tighten and work really well. The washers were like $2 per 100, so i'm not too worried about it.i'm going to go with these tee nuts next time I swap out hardware: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90973a400/=1050qcfLooks like Type 316 stainless steel is the way to go: http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/ Edited December 7, 2015 by sparky1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Larry54 243 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 (edited) On 12/7/2015 at 8:49 PM, sparky1 said: I can't find any that I would want to use. I don't really trust phillips head screws just because there's a risk of stripping it out with the improper sized bit.The current screws I use take a T20 torx bit to tighten and work really well. The washers were like $2 per 100, so i'm not too worried about it.i'm going to go with these tee nuts next time I swap out hardware: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90973a400/=1050qcfLooks like Type 316 stainless steel is the way to go: http://www.bosunsupplies.com/StainlessInfo2/ Read more First of all, finding the right size phillips bit is not rocket science. It's pretty obvious when the bit fits the head perfectly. And you shouldn't be cranking the screws tight enough that you risk stripping the head. You should use blue loc-tite and not over-tighten the screws.And for the washers, it's not at all about the cost. It's just that the less parts there are, the less chance of things moving, the cleaner looking the installation, and the less unnecessary weight you'll add even if it's minimal.Just my 2 cents worth. Edited December 7, 2015 by Larry54 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted December 7, 2015 On 12/7/2015 at 10:31 PM, Larry54 said: First of all, finding the right size phillips bit is not rocket science. It's pretty obvious when the bit fits the head perfectly. And you shouldn't be cranking the screws tight enough that you risk stripping the head. You should use loc-tite and not over-tighten the screws.And for the washers, it's not at all about the cost. It's just that the less parts there are, the less chance of things moving, the cleaner looking the installation, and the less weight you'll add even if minimal.Just my 2 cents worth. Read more that makes sense, thank you Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iammerson 19 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 (edited) On 12/7/2015 at 4:19 PM, sparky1 said: Finished product:Replaced all of the t-nuts as they were getting badly corroded.Next time I have to pull them off, i'll be ordering some stainless steel hardware. Read more Hey did you have to drill all new holes for the new holder or did it match up pretty well? Edited December 8, 2015 by iammerson Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
sparky1 29 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 On 12/8/2015 at 12:53 PM, iammerson said: Hey did you have to drill all new holes for the new holder or did it match up pretty well? Read more it all matched up without having to re-drill anything.pulled off the old holders, put in the new tee bolts and tightened everything down. 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gosinger 122 Report post Posted December 8, 2015 To all of those with Tuuk's on their Makos for a while now, have you had any issues with those? A colleague of mine has developed some knee issues due to the forward pitch, but loves his Mako's, and since shops round here don't do profiling he's thinking about simply mounting some LS2 since they should line up perfectly... 1 Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
