Marsblade roller chassis

[caseyjones 26]

2 hours ago, Miller55 said:

You can dremel out that plastic that wraps under the boot. Regarding where to place the frames, they definitely look a bit small, some prefer it that way, I am not one of them, so I can't really offer any useful advice. 

Thanks. I guess I will give that a shot. Since shaving that part down is doable, I may try small shims and dremel the outsole so I’ll be compromising the boot as little as possible 

[caseyjones 26]

1 hour ago, althoma1 said:

I would think you'd want the pivot point right in the middle of your foot with the Marsblades.

Coast to Coast Hockey shop has mounted a few R1's and have pictures on their instagram feed. They mounted a medium and then a small for Pavel Barber on his custom Trues that they say are approximately a size 5.5/6. The medium takes up the whole boot and the small is centered and seems to fit well in that case. 

https://www.instagram.com/p/CIZpSK3gQsQ

https://www.instagram.com/p/CGpuGKQgaGt

Edit: There's also a picture of the Revel 1/R1 setup mounted by Marsblade and they look to be centered as well: https://www.instagram.com/p/CGYmUo2g5kZ

 

That’s what I was thinking as well with it being centered. Considering the rocker of the marsblade, id imagine it would throw you off if it’s not. It’s funny, those pics of the pavel barber mounts are what made me think I can rock the smalls. Figured If he can skate on them, then who the hell am I? Lol. 
I just knew the 80/76 wouldn’t work for me bc I’ve hated it in the past. The small frame might sacrifice a little bit of speed and perhaps performance, but I like it bc it mimics my ice blade more and transitions are pretty seamless for me this way. Ideally, in a size 7 boot I’d prob prefer a 76/72 set up. It’s kind of dumb that roller skates are made more in terms of a one size fits all type of approach, but I guess it’s not cost conscience for them to make so many sizes. 

[caseyjones 26]

1 hour ago, JSchultz said:

I've got a medium on my 6.5R Vapors; I've always wondered what a small would have been like. 

Idk if it was this thread or another but someone posted an article about how the wheels should be aligned under a roller boot. It was referencing ice players who were skating in roller blades. It said the front wheel should actually sit under the toe whereas the toe cap would stick out further than the wheel. My last set up was pretty close, but not that extreme. It almost seems crazy to skate with a front wheel under the boot.  Then I came across this picture of Matthews and his front wheel is clearly recessed under the toe. Maybe it’ll take a slight adjustment but hopefully be better in the long run.

[Miller55 333]

42 minutes ago, caseyjones said:

That’s what I was thinking as well with it being centered. Considering the rocker of the marsblade, id imagine it would throw you off if it’s not. It’s funny, those pics of the pavel barber mounts are what made me think I can rock the smalls. Figured If he can skate on them, then who the hell am I? Lol. 
I just knew the 80/76 wouldn’t work for me bc I’ve hated it in the past. The small frame might sacrifice a little bit of speed and perhaps performance, but I like it bc it mimics my ice blade more and transitions are pretty seamless for me this way. Ideally, in a size 7 boot I’d prob prefer a 76/72 set up. It’s kind of dumb that roller skates are made more in terms of a one size fits all type of approach, but I guess it’s not cost conscience for them to make so many sizes. 

You can just use smaller wheels... Don't need to size down the frame. IDK, my two cents

[caseyjones 26]

1 hour ago, Miller55 said:

You can just use smaller wheels... Don't need to size down the frame. IDK, my two cents

Yea you could. I contemplated it. But you really only gain the difference on the front and back wheel. Going to a 72/68 setup on a medium frame might be more to my liking In terms of overall wheelbase length.  I just thought it would be really awkward with huge spaces between each wheel.  Right now the front wheel is basically flush with the toe cap.  I’m getting more comfortable with thinking this is going to work out good. I’ll post pics once done. Already trimmed the plastic off one skate and it’s fitting much better already.  Appreciate all the feedback!

[JSchultz 25]

3 hours ago, caseyjones said:

Yea you could. I contemplated it. But you really only gain the difference on the front and back wheel. Going to a 72/68 setup on a medium frame might be more to my liking In terms of overall wheelbase length.  I just thought it would be really awkward with huge spaces between each wheel.  Right now the front wheel is basically flush with the toe cap.  I’m getting more comfortable with thinking this is going to work out good. I’ll post pics once done. Already trimmed the plastic off one skate and it’s fitting much better already.  Appreciate all the feedback!

What do you mean you only gain the difference in the front and back wheel? I was thinking about getting some 76/72 mm instead of 80/76 on my medium to try out 

[caseyjones 26]

9 hours ago, JSchultz said:

What do you mean you only gain the difference in the front and back wheel? I was thinking about getting some 76/72 mm instead of 80/76 on my medium to try out 

In terms of the overall wheelbase (how far the wheels will spread across the bottom of the skate).  So if you go to a 76/72 you will shorten the wheelbase by 8mm.  That’s the difference between the New and old front and back wheels. So you shorten by 4mm from the back wheel and 4mm from the front wheel.   You wouldn’t gain 16mm (the overall difference in wheelsize).  Basically it won’t be the same as a 76/72 setup that has a bolt pattern designed for that since the wheels on a frame designed for that would be close together. When you do your swap the difference of the middle two wheels will now be filled with empty space.  Hope that makes sense. It’s long winded 

[Larry54 243]

1 hour ago, caseyjones said:

In terms of the overall wheelbase (how far the wheels will spread across the bottom of the skate).  So if you go to a 76/72 you will shorten the wheelbase by 8mm.  That’s the difference between the New and old front and back wheels. So you shorten by 4mm from the back wheel and 4mm from the front wheel.   You wouldn’t gain 16mm (the overall difference in wheelsize).  Basically it won’t be the same as a 76/72 setup that has a bolt pattern designed for that since the wheels on a frame designed for that would be close together. When you do your swap the difference of the middle two wheels will now be filled with empty space.  Hope that makes sense. It’s long winded 

I agree with the idea of your post overall but not with the actual figures. Going from 80/76 to 76/72 will only shorten it by 4mm overall because you have to look at the difference in wheel radius and not the difference in diameter.

The axle doesn't change position. The edge of an 80mm wheel is 40mm away from the axle. The edge of a 76mm wheel is 38mm away from the axle, or only 2mm less per wheel. So that sort of strengthens your case for wanting the smaller frame. I'd probably do the same thing, though a frame designed for 76/72 with the smallest possible wheelbase might be more desirable, but unfortunaely it doesn't seem to be an option here.

[caseyjones 26]

47 minutes ago, Larry54 said:

I agree with the idea of your post overall but not with the actual figures. Going from 80/76 to 76/72 will only shorten it by 4mm overall because you have to look at the difference in wheel radius and not the difference in diameter.

The axle doesn't change position. The edge of an 80mm wheel is 40mm away from the axle. The edge of a 76mm wheel is 38mm away from the axle, or only 2mm less per wheel. So that sort of strengthens your case for wanting the smaller frame. I'd probably do the same thing, though a frame designed for 76/72 with the smallest possible wheelbase might be more desirable, but unfortunaely it doesn't seem to be an option here.

Wow, thats a great point.  So even less than i thought.  Yea, initially i thought having a wheel that didnt stick out past a toe cap would be a huge detriment in terms of skating, but the more i research the more i become comfortable with the set up.  I believe, even if you look at a size 11.5 skate with an 80/76 set up....that front wheel is underneath the toe....so it's not like you can't skate on a set up like that.  It might even be beneficial for an ice player. 

[Larry54 243]

30 minutes ago, caseyjones said:

Wow, thats a great point.  So even less than i thought.  Yea, initially i thought having a wheel that didnt stick out past a toe cap would be a huge detriment in terms of skating, but the more i research the more i become comfortable with the set up.  I believe, even if you look at a size 11.5 skate with an 80/76 set up....that front wheel is underneath the toe....so it's not like you can't skate on a set up like that.  It might even be beneficial for an ice player. 

I don't know what it's like today since I don't follow roller hockey anymore, but in the old days during the RHI league, some of those pro players had their frames mounted so far back that the rear wheel stuck out and the front wheel didn't.

When I got Sprung frames, the mounting instructions said to mount the frames 1/4" back from center, and I got used to switching from ice to roller without to much balance problems so I think that mounting the frame a bit rearward makes sense if you don't overdo it. I think the balance point is more important than whether the front wheel sticks out or not.

 

[Miller55 333]

On 12/16/2020 at 5:48 PM, caseyjones said:

Yea you could. I contemplated it. But you really only gain the difference on the front and back wheel. Going to a 72/68 setup on a medium frame might be more to my liking In terms of overall wheelbase length.  I just thought it would be really awkward with huge spaces between each wheel.  Right now the front wheel is basically flush with the toe cap.  I’m getting more comfortable with thinking this is going to work out good. I’ll post pics once done. Already trimmed the plastic off one skate and it’s fitting much better already.  Appreciate all the feedback!

I hear what your saying. The thing is that there's a lot more than just shortening the wheelbase. There's also the spectra if lowering your center of gravity and increasing the stability of your feet and ankles over the wheels. So yeah, you won't get more than 4mm in decreased length, but there are other factors at play that will help increase your agility and quickness with smaller wheels. Obviously this comes at the expense of speed, and this depends on your game and your rink. My old home rink was huge, enough for 5 on 5 roller with still tons of room and lots of time. When we played 4 on 4 tourneys there it was crazy, so much room to skate. The rink I play in since moving away is tiny, even for 4 on 4. I'm planning to drop my sprungs from 80s to 76s,m maybe even 72s. 

[Rob Riccetti 2]

Can someone let me know what the base length is for the large and the medium chassis? I am referring to the the base that is riveted to the bottom of the boot.  
 

 

Edited June 12, 2021 by Rob Riccetti

[sturdy22 28]

5 hours ago, Rob Riccetti said:

Can someone let me know what the base length is for the large and the medium chassis? I am referring to the the base that is riveted to the bottom of the boot.  
 

 

Are we talking O1 or R1? We have both versions in both medium and large

[Rob Riccetti 2]

Oh yeah, should have been specific.  The R1.  

[sturdy22 28]

8 hours ago, Rob Riccetti said:

Oh yeah, should have been specific.  The R1.  

Medium is approximately 10.25”

large is approximately 11”

both are measured while mounted. The medium is on a 6.5 Reebok ribcor boot with about 3-4mm of space on the heel and toe of outsole. the large is mounted on a size 8.5 vapor 800 and covers the entire outsole.

[Rob Riccetti 2]

Thanks sturdy22.  I have mediums and the replacement medium of the new, more robust base is a bit longer.  I may have received larges by mistake - the metal part‘s also don‘t match up.  Here are the photos comparing the new one above and the definite medium below:   https://imgur.com/a/H89RpYA
 

Edited June 13, 2021 by Rob Riccetti

[sturdy22 28]

3 hours ago, Rob Riccetti said:

Thanks sturdy22.  I have mediums and the replacement medium of the new, more robust base is a bit longer.  I may have received larges by mistake - the metal part‘s also don‘t match up.  Here are the photos comparing the new one above and the definite medium below:   https://imgur.com/a/H89RpYA
 

Looking at the pic. that is a significant difference in size.

[Miller55 333]

Yeah that looks like you got a large instead of a medium.

[Rob Riccetti 2]

Yep - it has been confirmed and they are working on replacing it with a medium. In the meantime, has anyone ever used a large base with a medium metal wheel holder?  That‘s what I am running on now.

[Rob Riccetti 2]

Has anyone been experimenting with the different inserts?  I have been using the H5-T8, which as been fine, but I will try out the H8-T8 tomorrow during a game see if it makes any difference in my play.  My biggest complaint about the regular chassis was always that "ski boot" feel, so movement in the Marsblades has been great, I just want to find the sweet spot for me.  Would love to hear more feedback on the inserts and their effect on playing.  

[Westside 232]

R1 owners.... How's the wear on your chassis? This is my backup chassis that I've only used a handful of times. It's obviously all superficial at this point, but I'm curious to see how other users are holding up. There's a noticeable amount of wear on the plastic portion of the chassis as well

 

[Miller55 333]

That just looks like wear from the Rocker motion within the chassis. Kinda odd that the tolerance is so tight

[Westside 232]

1 hour ago, Miller55 said:

That just looks like wear from the Rocker motion within the chassis. Kinda odd that the tolerance is so tight

Oh yeah, 100%. Just wondering if everyone else is experiencing the same wear on their chassis

[Marsblade 23]

9 hours ago, Miller55 said:

That just looks like wear from the Rocker motion within the chassis. Kinda odd that the tolerance is so tight

@Westside @Miller55 We want to keep the fit of the lower and upper chassis as tight as possible to get the best possible stability. Unfortunately the visible wear is therefore hard to avoid but as I think you indicate @Westside it's only aesthetic. Hope that makes sense. //Per Mars, Inventor

[Martin01 0]

Marsblade - Please sell some XS chasis for childs separately 🙂 at your shop. I bought one small O1 skates but I need one more XS chasis and second complete O1 skates are little pricey 😕 (if i can have used YTH boot in good condition for 10-15e).