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Mine are just the opposite. They are about flush with the heel and over 1/2" from the toe. I used the same mounting instructions that Althoma1 posted. And make sure you use the frame's middle cross-member as reference for that 1/4" measurement and not the front and back of the frame.

I'm 100% sure. I've been using Sprungs for about 15 years now and the mounting instructions that the inventor provided were: 1) Find something that shows up on the sole and mark the center of the toe and heel on the sole. Check the boot and sole to best find the center spots. 2) Draw a line from the toe spot to the heel spot. 3) Find the center of the line on the sole between the end edges of the sole and mark it. 4) Measure 1/4" toward the heel from the center point and mark this point with a line across the sole at 90 degrees to the center line. 5) Align the frame with the center of the toe mount and heel mount on the center line, and the horizontal cross member in the center of the frame lined up with the horizontal line on the sole (# 4). 6 Drill the holes through the frame (you can drill inward a little to avoid hitting the frame with the drill, and they will mount easier because of the slight angle). Or mark the mount holes through the frame and drill with the frame removed. 7) ENJOY I always printed out these instructions and gave them to the shop. One shop didn't follow them early on and I definitely felt the difference. If they're centered then you engage the suspension by just standing on them. If they're mounted 1/4" toward the rear then you only engage the front suspension when you stride. If they're mounted more toward the front that'd definitely explain the stability issues...that's the opposite of what you want and is even worse than a mount that is centered front to back. They'll definitely feel way better if you get them remounted toward the rear. After the one incorrect mounting, I not only print out the instructions, but insist they read and use them (some workers believe they've done enough inline conversions that they don't need instructions, but they're used to a flat chassis like a HI-Lo where you do want to center them. You have to emphasize that they need to be mounted 1/4" toward the rear). Actually, the last couple times I actually brought boots with a good mount in as an example and just said, mount them exactly the same. I had 8EE OG Makos with a good mount as an example and was getting a new chassis mounted on 8EE Mako M7 boots - so the boot size and shape was exactly the same. I left one of the OG Makos with Sprungs in the shop for them to reference. With that size of skate and a Sprung A6 there's only about 5mm (less than a 1/4") of space at the rear after mounting and 10mm (a little under 1/2") at the front; so, a 1/4" more toward the rear just like the inventor intended. Here's a video of someone doing the install on their own. If you look at his edited comments in the video, he later realizes that using a center punch to punch out most of the rivets is way easier than prying them out or using a chisel. A shop of course has a rivet machine with a punch. I have removed a chassis on my own in the past and just used a rubber mallet and a robertston screw driver to punch out most of the rivets...a shop can do this more efficiently though:

It's in the mounting leaflet that comes with the Sprungs to have them fitted 1/4 towards the rear of centre.

Meh young buck, 13 years for me. Still looks and runs like brand new.

Aside from the injected on the 2015 1X skate (which was a manufacturing defect yet I never saw it being a widespread issue) the injected facing has been durable. The few broken ones that I came across where all the result of too big a skate resulting in over cranking to get them tight. Had them on MX3, 1S, and 2S Pro and was a fan. Missing them on my Ultrasonics. My concern is with the design of the HyperLite facing, specifically the cut outs at the top potentially being a weak spot over time. Pretty sure Bauer had a slew of skaters using them as prototypes long before they came to market last year. Whether or not they encountered any issues at all we will never know. I have a few who have gotten them had issues with the tongue.

Daryl Evans, skating no laces

I'm a level 2 certified coach, been coaching ice and inline for 15 years. But I didn't invent this, other much better qualified coaches than me have done this. For example look at this . Wally Kozak is one of the most respected coaches out there.

If you had asked me this 3 years ago I'd have said this is true. But today imho it's all opinionated bs, just like my comments following. Let me put this out there - IT'S NOT THE SKATE. It's you and your bio mechanics. It's as simple as this even though bio mechanics in skates is a complex issue. If your bio mechanics are correct you can skate in anything - even clods with a frame bolted to them. Stiffness, heel lock, volume, length, forefoot width, profile, hollow etc are all secondary, you don't need this to be anywhere near perfect to skate well. What you need is good body alignment over the skate blade. Yes, stiffer skates will generally help you to skate a little better but they will not TEACH you to skate better. If you want to skate better fix your bio mechanics first, make sure the holder is aligned central to your foot / ankle / knee / hip alignment. Then shim for ankle / knee / hip deviation. This is the quick fix but it comes with some issues, especially for beginning skaters and how their body adapts to skating over time. Or learn to skate with your laces undone, stop using the boot as a crutch / excuse and teach yourself how to balance over the blade. Even holder alignment becomes less important. Add in strength work for legs and core and then you wont care what skate you are in as long as it is comfortable on your foot. Age, sex, size, weight, skating experience and equipment are irrelevant, anyone can learn to do this. Downside is you have to put in the time and effort and it is a long term development, upside is that over time you create the base to become the best skater you can possibly be.

That's great, you'll have the best form in the senior home. 😉 Before barking at the OP about this that and the other, how about asking him what he's looking to get out of it. Not everyone is training to play the Soviets. Again, it's the practicality of that route for a player his age. It's entirely possible to skip all that and just have fun. Great skater or not, we all end up in the same place, local beer leagues. Ask yourself, is all that really worth it.