althoma1

The RS came out right before the original Mako. I have no experience with that skate and do not know if they're sizing is the same as the Mako skates, but Hockey Monkey does have Mako M8 skates on clearance for $234.98 and has 10D and 10.5D in stock. I believe most people used to take .5 size higher in Easton skates than Bauer, but with the Mako a lot of people went to the same size; so you might be a 10D in the M8, but hopefully someone who has used or tried on both the Mako skates and the RS can weigh in on that. I haven't used VH skates, but I've seen, felt and have read a lot about them and that'd be the most similar skate to the Easton Mako currently available. They aren't cheap at $899, however; they're fully custom and are built based on measurements, tracings and pictures of your feet. You could of course buy 4 pairs of the Mako M8 at the clearance price for only $40 more than one VH. There's a big VH skate thread here if you want to read all about those. You can also of course search on this and other forums, craigslist, kijiji, eBay, Sideline Swap and FB groups to see if anyone is selling Mako II or M8s in your size. Keep in mind that a lot of people can't even fit their feet into a properly sized Mako before it's baked and they'll feel very tight and can be uncomfortable if you do get your feet in them. After baking the Makos are very comfortable for most people in the right size. I have used both the Mako II and the original Makos and find the Mako II to be much more durable. The liner is holding up better on the Mako II, there's a bit more ankle padding and it hasn't compressed on me yet after about 8 months of use like the OG Makos did. Many people also had cracking issues with the OG Makos. So I'd stay away from the original Makos with the silver heels unless you can get them for dirt cheap and just want something to tide you over until you can find a Mako II or M8. The Mako II and M8 aren't going to be indestructible, but they're both an improvement over the originals and at the prices you can find them for now you could get 2 or 3 of them instead of one new high end Bauer, CCM or VH skate.

I have not baked or used the Super Tacks, but have tried them on and I own Mako II's. I use 8EE Mako II skates and tried on 8EE Super Tacks. I have wide forefeet and the Mako II in EE works well for them, but still locks in my narrow heel very well. The Super Tacks in the same size also locked in my heels very well, but I felt pressure in the toe box area...it was tolerable, but not comfortable. As I said, I did not bake or use the skates; so perhaps they would've been OK after a good bake and breaking them in, but generally a plastic toe cap doesn't change much after baking. I also briefly owned and baked, but did not use, a pair of Mako M8 in size 8D. Even after baking the Makos in D width were not wide enough for my forefeet. So if you're wearing D Makos and are having some toe box issues then the EE Super Tacks might be OK, but if you have EE Makos and there are toe box issues then I think the EE Super Tacks would be too narrow in the toe box and the only way to get a pair to fit would be to order a custom pair with a bigger toe box.

I own the original Makos, Mako II and bought a pair of M7's (haven't worn those yet). I also briefly owned M8's, but they were D width which turned out to be too narrow even after baking so I sold them before even wearing them. Here are the key differences between the M7, M8 and Mako II: M7 - EC50 Carbon Fiber Matrix (50% Fibre glass and 50% Carbon) with adaptive HDPE thermoplastic quarter. White felt tongue with an injected TPU metatarsal guard. Very thin ortholite footbed. M8 - EC80 (20% Fibre Glass) with adaptive RX thermoplastic quarter panel. White felt tongue with an injected-plastic metatarsal guard (the metatarsal guard looks exactly the same as the one that was on the original Mako). Multi-Density ortholite footbed (slightly thicker than the footbed that comes with the M7). Mako II - EC100 (100% Carbon) with adaptive RX thermoplastic quarter panel. White felt tongue with dual-density foam with a streamlined injected-plastic metatarsal guard (streamlined to allow for better forward flex). Multi-Density ortholite footbed (thicker than the one that comes with the M8). So you can see that the M7 has the highest fibre glass content - that means they'll be slightly heavier and you'll lose a bit of energy transfer, but on the plus side Fibre glass can be less prone to cracking from hard shots than carbon; so they may be a little more durable. The HDPE thermoplastic may also be less responsive to heat than the adaptive RX (Easton called this an exclusive thermoplastic material) found in the M8 and Mako II. I have not baked the M7's I have yet; so I can't be certain that is the case. The metatarsal guard isn't as hard in the M7 as it is in the M8 and it's not streamlined like it is in the Mako II. The footbed is very thin in the M7, but it was also quite thin in the original Mako. The M8 footbed is a bit thicker and the Mako II is the thickest of all the footbeds. They all have the extendon guard, are one piece boots and use the same holders and steel. The main difference is the fibre glass content as many others mentioned, but that's not the only difference. They all use wicking micro fibre liners, but the Mako II liner does seem like it'd probably be a bit more durable than the one found in the M7. I've used the Mako II since the summer (and that liner has shown better durability than the micro fibre liner used in the original Makos - I've had no issues with the Mako II liners, but had some noticeable wear with the originals after having used them for about the same amount of time), but haven't used the M7 at all; so I can't really say for sure.

Fair enough. I haven't worn them, but did handle and try them on. The Super Tacks didn't fit as well as the Makos in the toe area, but the heel lock was good. I don't think they would wrap as well and I think I would miss the flexible tendon guard, but I do think they would be more protective. That's only speculation though. Hopefully someone who has used them can answer your question.

If you love the fit and performance of the Makos, but don't like the protection then getting shot blockers for your Makos would seem to make more sense than buying new skates that may or may not work for you as well.

I have both Mako I and II skates in the same size and actually find that the Mako II feels slightly longer in the toe area (I can feel the cap/tongue more with my toes on the Mako 1's - both pairs I've converted to inline and the 1 pair I have for ice). Technically they should feel the same as the sizing wasn't changed from model to model, but there are variables at play like bake times, if you knocked your heel back in both skates and of course if the workers making your skates glued the tongues at exactly the same location in the toe cap.

I thought Leia looked great and realistic, but Tarkin looked like he came straight out of a video game. A game with good graphics, but very obviously animated.

Pets are part of the family and it's always difficult to see them pass on. You were missed at Winterfest, but I'd also want to be with my pets in that situation.

If you're referring to my post - I spot heated the skate carefully with my foot out of the skate, then put my foot in and wrapped the sock around and put the clamp on and let it cool.

I also have a narrow heel and super wide forefeet and when I wanted to tighten up the heels I didn't have any compression bandaids around so I spot heated carefully with a heat gun, tied around some compression socks and then used the clamp over the socks. It worked and no damage was done to my skates, but if you can do it just with a compression bandaid/and or your hands that's likely the safer way to go.

Sounds like they fit like mine. A half size down might be a bit too tight. If you spot heat the heel you should be able to get a better lock - you can use a tensor bandage and/or clamp to help after spot heating the area. I used a big plastic clamp to help with heel lock. It looks like a bigger version of this: Here's an old VH speed skate video where they use a tensor bandage:

Yes, a standard bic or papermate pen or #2 pencil. No thick oversized pens. With your toes brushing the cap, lean your leg forward and then place the pen behind your heel - it'll be below the tendon guard area. It's great that you're sure about the width - that eliminates one key variable.

I can do that, but I'm sure I'm not the only one curious about that comparison. You may want to post in the VH and/or Supertacks threads about it. I don't have a dire need to know as I have a stockpile of Makos that will last a while and the Supertacks and VH skates aren't in my current plans, however; I think it's unlikely I'll be going back to a boot with a separate outsole after using KORs and then Makos for the last decade or so and it's nice to keep tabs on other skates without separate outsoles. I know when another member, mc88, did a comparison of the Mako II and VH skates it was very interesting reading. I'm pretty sure I'm not the only one who feels that way.

I don't think the Makos are actually longer than the Vapors in the same size. The Mako is just more responsive to heat than Vapors and has a more anatomical toe cap. So after a bake the Makos would've widened up where needed and the toe cap is already wide. The Vapors may be still narrow for your feet in some areas (especially the toe cap) which elongates your foot and would make the skates feel shorter than the Makos. Either way, if you undo the top few laces and really loosen the rest and then push your foot to the front so you can feather the cap and then see how much room you have in the heel you can determine if you need to go down a half size. If you can't fit a regular pen down the back then you have the right size (for length anyway), if you can just squeeze a pen down the back then you're on the borderline between sizes and could stay where you are or go down depending on personal preference, and finally, if you can put a pen behind your heel and can move it back and forth a bit then you should definitely get a smaller size. As far as width goes you'd only know if you bake both a D and EE in the same size, but if the EE fits you with little to no negative space then it is probably OK - if you have a lot of room side to side anywhere then you could consider dropping to a D width.

If I recall correctly, you also have VH skates. It'd be interesting to hear how these compare after you've skated in them for a few weeks.

Most people go a half size down from Grafs to most other skates. If you ordered the same sizes your Grafs then that's likely why they're a bit long. With the prices you can grab the skates for now, you could consider ordering a half size smaller, keeping the pair that fits better and selling the other. Then after you're sure of the best fit you can stockpile that size. I tried both the 8EE and 8D myself (only baked the D as I didn't need to skate on them to determine they were too narrow). I might have been able to make 7.5EE work post bake, but my toes were pressed against the cap prebake (also tried that size when they were full price) and in the 8EE I can feather the caps when standing and am only just off them when in a skating position. I think a 7.75EE custom might be ideal performance wise, but I have good heel lock in the 8EE and they are comfortable - at the end of long reffing shifts I can feel the caps even when just standing. Oh, and I managed to sell the 8D pair without losing any money since they were only baked once and unsharpened.

I've never mounted a chassis myself, but I think Larry's advice is sound for most chassis including the Hi-Lo. The only chassis I know of where this differs slightly is Sprungs where they should be mounted 1/4" more toward the rear. I do like when a shop alternates copper and steel rivets for roller conversions as it feels more secure - roller puts even more stress on rivets than ice, plus I'm not a small guy at 6'2" and north of 200lbs; so having the extra copper rivets give me piece of mind that it's not likely to come loose. I have had rivets come loose in the past ages ago on stock skates that only had coppers in the two rear positions and steel for the rest.

You shouldn't need to dremel the outsole for a HI-LO chassis. It's the Labeda Hummer all 80mm chassis that often requires some dremelling.

The whole setup looks great; even sideways.

Use an external hosting site like tinypic and then post the link.

I would (and have) stock up. Besides, if Bauer were to release Mako like skates would you rather pay $1000 for those or the prices you can find Makos for on clearance now? These new theoretical Bauers would of course be cleared out at some point, but not for at least 2 years after they're released and even then they still might not dip as low as the current Mako prices.

The stock profile is 9'. The pitch is +3. I'd change one thing at a time and then give it a few skates to get used to things. The first and easiest change would be to get them sharpened at your usual 100/50 FBV. Some people have stated that they actually had to go shallower in hollow due to the more responsive one piece boot. That wasn't the case for me since I was coming from a responsive one piece boot (KOR Shift 2), but if the 100/50 FBV feels off then you could try something like a 90/75 FBV and see how that feels. Whatever you do, I wouldn't do anything more than minimal one at a time changes and then give yourself a few hours of ice time to adjust to each change.

Yes, they're very popular with the older refs in the Toronto area, but it's rare you'll see a younger ref wearing them (Supremes seem to be the most popular amongst the younger refs). I was talking to one senior ref who'd used custom Grafs for quite some time, but is now actually considering going the VH route since he needs new skates soon and can't currently get customs through Graf. I recommended trying some clearance Makos to save some cash, but he seemed pretty set on going the custom route.