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YesLanges

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YesLanges last won the day on July 13 2017

YesLanges had the most liked content!

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About YesLanges

  • Birthday 08/09/1961

Equipment

  • Skates
    Take a wild guess
  • Stick
    CCM-RBZ Stage 2 Hossa P40, H11, or Zlobin Pattern
  • Gloves
    Cooper Pro circa 1975 & CCM 5-Roll HG135S circa 1985
  • Helmet
    CCM Pro Standards circa Late 70s
  • Pants
    Cooper HP-18s circa 1978 and CCM Supra 610s & 630s circa 1990
  • Shoulder Pads
    Bauer 600s with shoulder caps and biceps pads swapped from Jofa 8400s
  • Elbow Pads
    Jofa 9144s, 8066s, and 8044s
  • Shin Pads
    Jofa 5500s
  • Hockey Bag
    CCM 32" and Larger Generic Duffle Bag

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    NYC
  • Interests
    Physical Fitness, Thinking, Animals, and Strippers...not necessarily in that order.
  • Spambot control
    123123123

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    NYCFreelanceWriter.com

Recent Profile Visitors

3034 profile views
  1. Working out as much as always, because I haven't been dependent on a commercial gym for more than a decade...never been happier about that than this last 3 months, obviously. Skating for about an hour 3 x/week on a pretty good deck behind my building (roughly 80 x 40')...the only thing I can't do at all is shoot the puck out there. There's a railing on 3 sides and a gap on the bottom right over the parking lot...so I grabbed a whole case of those hollow 5' foam pool noodles on eBay for $50 and strung about 30 of them together (in 3 sections with carabiners on each end) and set them up around the 3 exposed sides of the perimeter (the 4th side is the building itself). I carry them out there tied up in a big bundle about the size of a boxing heavy bag and it only takes me about 5 minutes to deploy them and about twice that long to fold and bundle them all back up when I'm done. I was prepared for it to be a total waste of time and effort, but they work perfectly...maybe one of the best ideas I've ever had (besides putting together my own gym in 2008, after I realized we wouldn't even need a second car anymore if I did that). I've gotten very comfortable on my 1997 Bauers ("Breakout 50s") with 72-76-76-72 and with 78A wheels, my "edges" feel pretty close to ice but my Marsblades came back today installed on a pair of entry-level Bauer MS-1s that seem infinitely better than the boots I've been using. Hey, are toe drags much easier with a green biscuit than with a puck on ice or something? Because they suddenly just clicked for me since I've been out there on wheels. The GB puck speed on the surface I'm using doesn't seem much different than pucks on ice, but something suddenly changed very dramatically for me and I'm dragging that shit all over the place with relative ease, and pretty fluidly without them coming off my stick very much at all...in front of me, to the side, and from pretty far back behind to my back skate. The improvement really seems way out of proportion to the amount of extra time spent on it and I was expecting only gradual improvement and nothing like this improvement curve at all. Just hoping it carries over to the ice. When you guys perfected your toe drags, did they suddenly click for you like that, too?
  2. Thanks again, Man...really appreciate your help in this thread...
  3. @Marsblade The product pamphlet refers to the frame spacers, but only in connection with which arm of the skate key to use for them. There's no info about how the frame spacers actually work or how they're supposed to be adjusted (if at all) in conjunction with the center adjustment bolt. Any advice would be appreciated.
  4. Anybody have experience with both who can offer a comparison?
  5. In that case, I'd go a step further. Cut out the 2 padded hip caps (including the plastic) from of an old pair of pants and sew them permanently into pockets created in something like the Shock Doc shorts (the tight-fitting ones with the cup and velcro sock tabs) and wear those under your pants. That's what I wear for reffing and for inline skating. If I had my hip done, I'd wear that under my pants anytime I played. You can use just about any material to create pad pockets and if they're too tight to sew them into the inside, just put the pockets right on the outside.
  6. I've never found pants that don't have that annoying gap in between the pads exposing your hip socket. So I just slip a circular piece of thin supplemental padding under compression shorts to keep them exactly where they need to be to fill that gap. You can do the same thing with a supplemental tailbone pad.
  7. I just sent mine (O1) out to be installed on some Bauer MS-1 ice boots. How tight or loose would you suggest for that center bolt the first time I try them out? Currently pretty comfortable on my old skates with a 72-76-76-72 mm setup. Is there any movement with that bolt fully tightened, or is that just like skating on traditional roller chassis?
  8. Thanks, Per. I just found this new pair of Bauer (ice) MS-1s for $65 on eBay to have my MBs installed on them. The boots look identical to the Bauer RS (inlines) that I got a few weeks ago, except with an upgraded tongue. The Alkali 2s are going right back to Hockey Monkey because they're way too much skate for me; they felt totally foreign on my feet and are so stiff they seem like they'd take forever to break in even after baking. The Bauer RS felt just like my 22-year-old "Breakout 50s" as soon as I put them on. I'm still amazed at how stiff even low-level modern boots are. They seem to have the typical contoured bottoms that will fit the MB chasis. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Bauer-Ns-Senior-Ice-Hockey-Skate-1056254-SZ-9-0/193394982832?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
  9. @Marsblade I just received my 01s, thank you. That was a great decision to send them out in generic packaging instead of waiting for the custom packaging. Question: The boots I was planning on using with them have perfectly flat bottoms that don't match the contoured angle of the base plates. What should be used to take up that space so that they fit flush to the boot? Thanks in advance for your help.
  10. That's actually perfect for the area I'm working with. That's what I was sort of expecting, but I didn't notice much reduction in stability going from 76-76-76-72 to 72-76-76-72. Definitely more maneuverable. Ditto. I was planning on using my old Bauers until the MB show up, but they're falling apart on me and I'm not that optimistic about the posted MB delivery dates, based on my experience with their ice holders, although maybe that was because it was a new, first-generation product and not one already in production and on the market.
  11. Thanks, Fellas...appreciate the input. So if I go with 72-76-72-68, that would be a little slower but more maneuverable than 76-80-76-72, correct?
  12. I dug my 1997 Bauer "Breakout 50s" out from the back of a closet a few weeks ago. They're actually not bad, although I have nothing to compare them to. The wheel setup (that I don't remember doing) is 76-76-76-72, which felt OK, but kind of like skis compared ice runners...and they feel like they weigh about 10 lbs, each. Got some wheels in various sizes and changed to 72-76-76-72, which feels better and allows tighter turns. All the wheels I bought are 78A, because that seems like a good match on the rough-but-sealed concrete deck where I skate. Slightly softer could work well too, but I definitely wouldn't want anything harder with any less grip. (I'm 185 lbs.) I don't plan on playing roller hockey...just want to continue skating until the rinks open up again and keeping my mechanics as close to skating on ice as possible. The deck I skate on is roughly the dimensions of half an ice-rink neutral zone (split in half lengthwise...so blue line to blue line and boards to center face-off dot). I can do some drills, but I already run out of space quickly, so not looking for faster wheels...thinking that 68-72-72-68 might be optimal for my situation. Both boots are quickly developing cracks after sitting in a closet for 20+ years, so I ordered a couple of pairs of skates in case I decide to put the Marsblades I ordered on one of them instead of on one of my old Lange boots. One of them is Bauer RS and the other is Alkali 2, (only because every place I looked was already out of lower-end models and the seller upgraded me to the A2s after notifying me that the Tour Code 3.ones I actually ordered first were sold out). The Bauers come with (harder 82A) 72-72-68-68 and the Alkali come with 80-80-76-76 Konixx Tachyon (+0) "Indoor" wheels...both have Hi-Lo frames. I can't find any reference to what KT +0 corresponds to on the traditional durometer scale, but I'm assuming they're something like 76A or 74A. Questions: 1. Can I rocker Hi-Lo frames with 68-72-72-68 or 72-76-76-72? Any reason for me to stick with the Hi-Lo setup, instead? 2. The stock 80-80-76-76 will be faster and less maneuverable than the stock 72-72-68-68, right? 3. 76-80-80-76 will be a little slower but less stable than both of those rockered setups, right? 4. Probably 68-72-72-68 would be best for my needs, based on the info above, right? 5. How do the Marsblade FMT Ones compare with the Alkali R2s in case I decide to skate on the Bauers and have the MB put on the AR2s? 6. For you other dinosaurs, do you think Lange boots will support roller frames? Because it seems like roller frames put a lot more stress on the soles than ice holders (because the ice-steel load on the boot is distributed much wider and with less torque than the load from roller frames even though the ice steel itself is much thinner) and the Lange soles seem to be much thinner and much less reinforced than even the soles on my 1997 Bauer inlines. @pettererlandsson I know you said we can ask you anything about MB, but you've probably never seen Langes, right? Any other advice and/or suggestions (other than "just try them all out and see") would be welcome. Thanks in advance.
  13. Why would the color of the cage make a difference? It might feel that way, but I think it's an inaccurate perception, because white bars block your vision just as much as black bars.
  14. I think if I were going to try to figure it out, I'd just bring a compass to the rink to see if there's a strong magnetic field there somewhere. The weird thing is it only happens once in a while and to two different watches with similar movements (and I never forget to keep them wound). I always put the bag in roughly the same place and neither of those watches has ever done anything like that anywhere else in 10+ years...it's just at the rink and only once in a while, but when it's happened, they're like a half an hour or an hour slow after only about 90 minutes off my wrist, which would have to be a relatively strong magnetic field.
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