caveman27

With ice skates, you usually go down 1 to 1.5 sizes from your shoe to your skate size. So if your shoe size is US 12 or 11.5 (euro size 45), then you would usually get a skate size of US 11 or 10.5. There's also skate width to put into consideration to get a good fit. I'm guessing the boot is a bit too big and you have some movement of your leg, ankle and foot inside the boot while the skates are tied up.

What is your regular shoe size (dress shoe or athletic shoe)? What is your skate size?

Pain in the front over the ankle could be lace bite. Pain on the sides could be due to a variety of things. You have this ankle pain on one of your feet, but not the other, is that right?

If it's just extra thread, you can cut it with a scissor, or, if the thread is short, you can light it with a lighter and let it burn off. If you see that the seams are separated, you can sew the separated parts together using the same holes in the material. Hand sewn stitches will last longer than the glove if you do it right.

Well, a player can have whatever length suits that person regardless of position. I understand that.

That's true, but you want to optimize stick length with your playing style (defense usually use longer shaft, forwards usually use average or shorter shaft for the most part) and then you adjust your lie around that.

This is a pretty good video about that. I also use a 5 lie stick. I had a 6 lie stick and things were wacky. Since the tip was up while the heel was down, more often than not, my passes and shots would get flubbed.

Just ensure you are working with a stick whose lie is correct for you. .

So, your Supreme 1S pads are kind of normal shoulder caps. If you never wore any shoulder pads, any current shoulder pad is going to feel like football pads. Look at everyone in the NHL. Sherwood 5030s are really low if you want to look like Doug Glimour sleek.

Hope you get better soon. How did the power play work out for you guys?

I'm in the sub-$200 buyer demography for sticks, so do whatever works for you.

The chin cup is tight to my chin after the straps are pressed onto the buttons. .

If you bake them at the recommended temperature, those things won't get damaged. Pre-heat the oven to 175 deg Fahrenheit. Then, put the skates in. This is not really that hot, if you are into baking or roasting food. If you crank that oven to 400 degrees like it's turkey time, yeah, you are going to damage your skates.

Oh yeah, I had a pair of Micron Mega Air 90s in 6.0D. Those were great. They were made with real leather back in the day... and so when I took some time off of hockey and got back into it, I saw the insides covered with mold. So, I bought Bauer Supreme 6000s in 6.0D, that was okay. At the time, that is what I could afford, I think the top of the line was Supreme 8000s with more bells and whistles. A couple years ago, the 6000s were becoming weak so I bought a pair of CCM Jetspeed. They are in 5.5 EE (before CCM's switch to align sizes with Bauer), 5.5 D was too narrow. They fit pretty good, really awesome heel lock, at least for my foot. The left foot fits better than the right foot though because I have a wider right foot. They were hard to break into to at the start, really stiff boot, no lace bite though. Your mileage may vary. Like other cheapos, I bought them because they were on clearance... and since Junior sized CCM skates cost half as much as senior sized CCM skates, I bought them.

I wonder what option he took. That was about year and half ago.

Interesting. This was always my favorite design from Koho by Lefebvre. Never really knew if those rubber nubs on the outer roll did anything though. I could not afford this set.

I usually put an old skate lace underneath the tape and create a spiral ribbed tape surface.

Ideally, you want to shoot at a goal-sized target between 10 to 60 feet.

Well, if I violated any forum rules with my reply, let the mods know.

Ever since my spinal fusion surgery, I always wear a weight lifting belt for back support when playing. It's nylon one with velcro, not a leather one with a metal buckle.

I'm just offering another business who I've gone to in the past.. Someone else already posted JR's information and I didn't bad mouth him in any way, shape or form.

www.noicingsports.com also sells blades and sharpens and/or re-profiles blades you mail in.

It is worth talking about all the various aspects of ice hockey that is bad for the game: player conduct, coach conduct, referee conduct, fan conduct, media conduct, agent conduct, team owner conduct, etc. When it comes to adults playing a professional sport as a job, we have an expectation that they can handle a certain amount of negative feedback from the coach if their performance is not good. Some coaches are tough on their players, and we see a positive turn-around, so we assume, "that's how things are fixed". Was Viktor Tikhonov a bad coach or a good coach? If you look at wins and losses on paper, you could say he was a good coach. If you ask top players who were coached under him, they might say he was a mean-spirited/cruel person.

It's rare to have adult ice hockey instruction, kind of like looking for adult instruction in basketball or baseball; there's an assumption that you played basketball or baseball as a child and as an adult, you are going to play it in amateur adult leagues. As for hockey tactics and skills, there are various youtube videos that can sort of help out. But nothing can replace on-ice instruction and practice.

I have one in the form of a carbon fiber blade. I actually don't like it that much. It's a 3/8" curve so there's pluses and minuses with that. For some reason, I thought it was a 1/2" curve before I bought it online.