psulion22

They are not. Starting with the 1S, Bauer shortened the skates by about 1/8-1/4", which often means you need to go up a 1/2 size. Of course it depends on your actual foot and how close to the front your toes are in the MX3. But I had to go from an 8 MX3 to an 8.5 2S Pro, which should fit the same as the Ultrasonic. Though there will be less volume in the toecap of the Ultrasonic.

Awesome, thanks guys. I was asking because I saw a barely used pair in my size (assuming that Fit 2 does fit like a Supreme D) that I thought about picking up. I don't have any way of trying an Ultrasonic on, or even holding it, right now because that rink is very restrictive on entrance and the pro shop. I'm perfectly happy with my 2S Pros, they fit and feel great. But the design change and added stiffness it creates are pretty interesting and sound like they would create a substantial amount of control and power.

@mojo122 Do you think There's enough improvement that it's worth upgrading from a 2S Pro (that's still in good shape and comfortable)? Is the foot contact with the ice and stride power that much more pronounced?

For those interested, it seems that the new Pro model also comes with the "regular" base for travel. The top portion of the unit is interchangeable, with the difference being the base unit. The regular base is compact and lightweight for travel, and the Pro base is sturdier and heavier for a stationary application, even just home use, similar to the old model. So if you're looking at the two and think you may want the Pro, but still want the smaller unit in case you travel occasionally, you don't have to choose between them.

I don't see any indication of that in any materials. Pics of the Intermediate skate seem to have the same outsole as the Senior. There's no reason to make the Ultrasonic skate without the composite outsole since that's the entire point of the skate.

Ultrasonic's are a semi- one piece composite boot, so they don't have an outsole in the way the 2S Pro did. The outsole is all part of the heel and bottom of the quarter now. But, it's definitely fully composite.

@Hills did a very good comparison of CCM's P90T vs a P28 and P29 on his instagram page. I'd like to see how it compares to a P88 also, as I'm exactly what Colins describes above, a P88 user that wants to keep the passing and consistency of the flat rocker, but would like a little more curve in the toe to help get toe shots off.

Given the information posted, I'm going to say that you're problem is a combination of things. Cheap skates with poor structure and support, causing you to have to tie them way too tight to get that support because you are a new skater. If they are not fitting you properly, that will compound the issue. Burning, cramping, pins and needles, or numbness are usually caused by too much pressure somewhere on the foot restricting blood flow. It may even not necessarily be in the area that is affected either. For example, pain or numbness on the outside of the sole (pinky toe side) is often caused by too much pressure over the top of the foot because that's where the blood vessel is. IPv6 and others are correct. A skate should be supportive without having to crank it down. That relies on the thermoformability of the materials. Certain brands, like True or Easton Makos if you can find them, are made from materials that are a little softer and better shape to the foot. The higher price points from Bauer and CCM are made from materials that mold much better when heated. Doing what Vet88 suggests will definitely help you identify if pressure somewhere is the problem. It may be directly on the arch, it may not. When it comes down to it, you're a new skater, so your strength and conrol aren't developed yet. You're likely having to crank the skate down just to get that support, since you don't have it on your own yet. Part of that may also be because the skate isn't fitting properly. And a cheaper boot doesn't have as much support, meaning you have to tie them even tighter to get it. I would take the suggestions of IPv6 and Vet88. Skate with your skates very loose and see if the lack of pressure resolves the issue. Don't worry about your skating, you're only focusing on the pain issue. If that helps, then I'm going to suggest finding a higher end boot, whether it's a True or another brand, that will provide its own support. To that end, I'm also going to suggest getting an ice skate and converting it to roller. Much of the price of a premade roller skate is in the wheels, bearings, and frame. You're getting a significanty inferior boot compared to the ice version of the same price point. A higher end boot on model year clearance or even used is a great option to consider. You already have the chassis, wheels, and bearings so converting over should be easy and not cost too much.

That's about how mine fit and they're the right size. A pen fits in pretty easily past my achilles until it hits my heel. Then there's resistance and it won't go all the way in to touch the bottom. The problem would be that if you're not quite that tight, you're probably between sizes. So either you'll have to stretch a 7.5, which might be difficult, or wear thinner/no socks, and it still might be snug. Or you'll have to wear thicker socks or find something to fill the space.

I'd also have them baked again, with the socks you'd wear in a game. The quarter is much more formable than you've had in the past. Get the tongue seated properly, all the way in. Kind of mold the sides in gently with your hands as you tighten them. I was able to get such good wrap and fit on my foot, I don't even need to tie anything but the top 2-3 eyelets for support.

Also, here's a good test to check for length. Put the skate on and kneel down with your toes pointing towards the floor. Tap the toe of the skates on the floor until your toes just brush the inside of the toe cap but are comfortable. Then see how much room there is in the heel. It helps if you can have another person do that for you. There shouldn't be too much space. Maybe a pencil should be able to fit behind your achilles with less behind the heel. If you can fit a finger in there or a pencil isn't getting much resistance, then they are too long. With new skates in a shop, it's sometimes hard to get a feel for the length because the ankle padding is so thick and form fits so much when baking. What feels like too small, will lengthen out when baked. This test is a good one for unbaked skates because you'd be able to tell if the heel is seated properly. If there isn't much space behind the heel, and the toes are still tight, then the skate is too small. But if there is space behind the heel, the skate may be the right size, and the tightness will go away after baking and being able to push the heel back further.

Depending on what the last model of Supreme's you had was, the 8 may be the proper size. Starting with the 1S in 2016, Bauer adjusted the sizing of their lasts and things got smaller by about 1/2 size. I wore 8EE's in Supremes for probably 15 years, up until the MX3. I think you would have had to cut my toes off to make them fit into an 8 2S Pro. The scanner had me at a 8.5D Vapor. That's too narrow for the balls of my feet and toes (but ok in the mid foot). I spoke to a product designer at Bauer (after being transferred a few times) and he confirmed the sizing change in 2016. Sure enough, a 8.5D 2S Pro fits me perfect. There are a few hot spots, but they were easily fixed with a little bumping during baking. So if your last pair of skates was before the 1S, then you likely do need to go up a half size. If they were after, you would likely need 7.5 Fit 2. The difference in socks may be the problem. That Carbon Curv is Bauer's most thermoformable material. It molds pretty well, much better than any of the materials in the past, and then becomes pretty rigid (also more rigid than in the past). If you got it kind of close in the store with the thicker socks, the material isn't going to flex in to fit your foot with the thinner socks, it's going to leave a gap.The tongue is also thermoformable, so if you aren't tucking it in as far as you did when you baked them, then there will be extra negative space as well.

Yeah, that's probably the best way of putting it. The videos are on Bauer's IG page, under the "3 Fit Q&A" folder at the top, if you want to watch. As Hills and some others have said, the difference in feel is likely attributed to the difference in features. A Vapor skate has the asymmetrical last, the ribs in the heel, the stiffer injected facings, and a different tongue. It's not going to wrap the foot as much as the Supreme and it's going to have a much different feel in the heel because of the ribs. Those things will likely give the skate a tighter heel and slightly less volume. But they're all part of the features that make the Vapor skate meant for "quickness"

The 3 Fits are the same on both Vapor and Supreme. So while yes, you have Vapor in Fit 1, 2, 3 and Supreme in Fit 1, 2, 3, Fit 1, 2, and 3 are the same for both. The difference between Vapor and Supreme is now just the feature set. However, I did see a video with the product manager at Bauer and he said that the fits will feel different in the two skate lines. My guess is they might be keeping the more tapered profile in the Vapors vs the anatomical fit of the Supreme.

I was told by a product developer at Bauer that FIt 3 is a touch wider than a Supreme EE, but not as wide or as much volume as Nexus. My guess is yes, the heel will be narrower because it's still built off the Supreme last, not the Nexus.

A defenseman's ability to transition the puck is going to be the skill that is most emphasized for a while going forward. With the way metrics and analytics are being employed, limiting opponent's possession and shot events are most focused on, and that means getting the puck out of the defending zone quickly, efficiently, and under control. This is primarily true on a transition. A defenseman needs to be able to skate back and beat a forward to a puck, and make a good, controlled first pass, usually under heavy forecheck. If control is established in the zone, for the most part, the passive zone is dead and defense has gone to a more active zone where someone is always pressuring the puck trying to regain possession and move the puck out. The days of sitting and letting the other team have the puck on the outside and waiting for them to come to you are over. Defense is a team system that relies on all 5 players to work. There isn't really such a thing as a "defensive" or "offensive" defenseman anymore. Sure, some guys join the rush more often and put up more points. But every defenseman has to be able to skate up into the play on every transition, and be active in the offensive zone. Those space filling, shot blocking warriors of the early- to mid- 2010's like Girardi or Orpik aren't wanted in today's game. Even the most "defensive" or "stay-at-home" defenseman today would have been considered an "offensive" defenseman even just 10 years ago.

Awesome, thanks. How did the weight and sightlines compare between the two?

So between the MK5-X and Zero Plus, which would you recommend, and why?

The weight of the Re-Akt makes it hard for me to want to switch away from it. I'd prefer some sort of visor for visibility, but they weight so much more that I have to keep pushing my helmet up. The Boulder/Avision or the Ronin look better than the ones from the major brands. I have a teammate that has the Ronin, and it doesn't look like it's unusually large. It's interesting that it's getting that feedback. The thinner bars and optically correct shield are definitely more appealing.

I just use the Coban type grip tape. It's thin, works well, cheap, and doesn't damage palms. I found all of the other grips to be too thick.

Kind of. What I think they did was rotate the blocker board on the hand and flatten the bottom. They pulled the bottom edge of the board down closer to the fingers and pushed the top out a little more. The best way of illustrating it would be to look at the angle of the bottom edge of the board in relation to the thumb in your pics. On the G4, you can see how the bottom curves away from the thumb (as does the CCM). The G5 has a much more narrow angle there. The logos on the finger portion of the sideboard show it pretty well. They're both parallel to the face angle of the bottom of the board. Look at the difference in relation to the thumb graphic in both pics. Then if you look at the angle of the back of the sideboard at the wrist, you can see how much more square the G5 is. When they pull and straighten the bottom, it makes it longer in relation to the fingers, so it moves the board down in a way. Remember, the hand position in the Ritual line is adjustable anyway. I just threw the pics into the markup tool on my iPhone, which has a ruler that gives angles. If you line the board up to 90*, the thumb on the G5 is at a 61* angle to the board, vs a 51* angle on the G4. I think they actually did leave it the same, and stuck it out further giving it more coverage. To me, the curve at the top of the G5 looks like it sticks out futher than the G4. Given it's pretty rough, I just measured the top angle on each pic in relation to the board, using markup on my iPhone. If you make the thumb angle the same, the top angle is the same on both. That means they flattened it down on the G5 given the hand position in relation to the board has changed by about 10*. The angle of the bend to the face of the board is 58* on the G4 and 70* on the G5.

No, it works alongside it. It's all about the "aerial angle". By pushing the entire blocker forward and angling it down, they created more coverage area. Rather than just take that, they flattened out the curve. The bottom of a G3/G4 blocker was really thick and almost curved up. With the G5, that's what they flattened out moreso than the curve at the top. So what you get is a blocker that covers the same amount above the hand, and a lot more below the hand. The top of the blocker sits out about as far is it did before, but the bottom is flatter and angled down closer to the hand. My biggest problem with the Warrior blockers was the lack of coverage low, down on the ice. You could move the hand position, but then you lost coverage up top. I always just kept it in the middle and kind of dealt with it. This isn't a problem in my Optik blocker, or my Gnetik 3 blocker before the Warrior. They are both pretty flat in the bottom of the board, just like the Bauer blockers and now the G5. Vaughns and the older Warriors have more curve at the bottom, which gives them more curve overall. I don't think Warrior came up with a new design that other companies will follow. Rather they just did what a few others have been doing for a while.

I just found out a friend's boyfriend died last week. Not sure yet on the cause, it could have been either COVID or appendicitis/rupture. His symptoms could have indicated both. What's sad is he likely did die because of COVID either way though. He had been having abdominal pains for a few days, and twice decided to go to an Urgent Care clinic but had an anxiety attack because of the fear of getting COVID, one of those times actually turning the car around on the way. If he had gotten medical attention, they likely could have saved him either way. He ended up dying suddenly at home.

I had a similar issue. I used to wear the bigger, blockier type shoulders, like a Supreme model. I forgot them one game. One of my teammates two shifts into the game mentioned how much faster and more agile I seemed. My gf brought me my pads and I put them on, and this teammate said I changed back, I wasn't turning my upper body as well. Another teammate had a pair of Vapors that he had taken off because they were new and he didn't like them. I tried them on instead, and my game went mostly back to where it was without the SPs. After the game, I bought the Vapors from the guy, and I'm still wearing them. I think they're Vapor XXXX's or X:60s, that's how old they are. Long story short, look into the aglity line for the different brands. Bauer would be a Vapor, not the Supreme. CCM is the Jetspeed. With the top tier models of those lines, the shoulder caps are lower profile, and go more outwards than up. You could also probably save a few bucks and go down one step to the second model. the protection would still probably be good enough, and certainly better than nothing. The Jetspeed FT390 is more of a tapered design which you may like better. And the entire Bauer Vapor line is on clearance right now, so that may be a good option as well.

As stated above, protection may be an issue with Intermediate gloves. Your best bet is probably to get a G4/G5 and use the intermediate liner, or find or order a glove custom made with smaller internals. My Optiks have intermediate internals. And I didn't have a problem with my G3 gloves (medium liner in the blocker), though most other gloves are too large for my hands.