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Everything posted by psulion22

  1. I could proably stick my Gen 1 5.2 to a wall. Or use it as flypaper.
  2. Right now I'm on 7/8" ROH, but plan to go to 3/4" Fire for my next set. The one thing I find with the Sparx, is that the sharpening feels like one increment larger than the wheel says.
  3. That is true. However, I haven't changed my ROH because I don't want to buy more wheels, and I haven't noticed any issues with lack of bite like you would by changing your ROH on normal steel. I'm just about through my first set of steel, so I'm pretty close to being back to 3mm. Right now it feels like a still better FBV, but not as amped up as it did when they were new. Despite that, the performance gains are still worth it. Not to mention Sparx Fire is no where close to FBV, and since I have a Sparx and don't trust the shop that does FBV to touch my skates, I'm happy getting the Flare for whatever gains I can so I can use my SParx.
  4. It's not the width that gives the performance. Goalie steel used to be 4mm. The increased width caused a feeling of skating on rails. You lost a ton of agility and lateral motion. The increase from 3mm to ~4mm is what causes the flare. That gives you a 6* angle which is what changes everything. You get a 6* better attack angle for turns, strides, and stops and also a 6* less angle with the ice causing better glide. Sharpening Flare is no different than any other steel, with the exception that you can't do FBV. Fire on a Sparx works well, it's the only thing I've ever done on them. Sticking with your kayak analogy, which is going to give you more speed - using a bigger paddle (altering your ROH) or physically altering the design of the boat (Flare)? If that's what you like, then get Flare steel. It's FBV/Fire on steroids.
  5. Yep, did mine at home in my convection oven on the convection bake setting so the elements inside the oven don't turn on (on conv. bake, my oven heats with a round element behind the wall around the fan). I've always needed two bakes to get my skates just right. But never had the difference been so stark from the first to the second, or did I get such a custom feeling fit. I actually couldn't tie the skates any tighter now. The boot is so well shaped that it can't flex inward any more when you crank on the laces, except the top two eyelets. I don't use the top one and pull the second just a little tighter. I just pull so there's tension until that second from the top.
  6. Yep. After the first - 5 minutes at 175*F, they definitely molded to my feet but it wasn't quite right. I had a few pressure points inside, and was getting horrible lace bite because i was really having to crank them down. After the second same 5 minutes at 175*F, it was night and day. The tongue really molded in and form fit to my foot, and because of that I was able to get incredible wrap on the boot. I used my hands to really shape the skate and get rid of as much negative space as possible. I also put some foam on so that it would slightly punch out the hot spots. Now tha skates are incredible. I don't really have to tie them except to keep my foot from popping out. Nothing tight at all, so there's no lace bite. The tongue being so form fitted keeps it from sliding around and really responds to my stride. I actually have to physically push it in and set it in place before lacing too. I think another big thing was I replaced the laces for the second bake with wider cotton ones. They stay in place without slipping or loosening as you tie, and the extra width gives more pressure to help with the molding. Without going to something made directly from a scan of my foot, I don't see how anything could fit better.
  7. If you want to increase straight ahead speed, you need to increase surface area with the ice when striding and reduce drag. Look into a multi-radius profile, maybe a CAG with a flat spot or a triple/quad with a longer radius in the push area. That will give you more on the blade touching the ice when you push. To increase glide and reduce drag, you can reduce your ROH, like you have, or go to a FBV. I don't think one or the other will give the gains you are looking for, you have to do both. I'm almost exactly you - 5'9" 160 lbs and a defenseman that wants straight line speed. I used to skate on 8/12' with a 50mm flat with a 95/75 FBV (about 7/16"). But then I tried Flare steel. It made me so much faster I waas out of control. I was just crashing into things the first few skates with it. Now I'm on Flare at 7/8" and a Quad 1 (which is probably too much and I'll lower it to a Quad 0.5 or a triple next set). If you want to increase your speed, Flare is the way to go.
  8. There is nothing on the market that even comes close to a P10 Shanny/Kane. The P90T looks promising, but it may have too much toe. It'll also be shorter. PM9 is a heel curve, it's not close. P92 is too high a lie, but it does have that kind of toe scoop. You could try to find a P92 lie 5, but it's still higher and not really the same. P88 is your best bet in retail curves for now. It's the lowest lie of the retail curves (even though it's listed as a 6). It's more closed with a slight opening at the toe. This is coming from someone who has a P10, P88, P92, P92L5, PM9, and P30 sitting in the garage right now. Blades, from what I've had the blade on the 2N Pro has the best puck feel. That is unless you want to pony up $370 for a Nexus ADV. The puck feel on that thing, especially in receiving passes, is unreal. A Bauer Supreme stick may also be good because it has a softer blade. There's nothing you can do for the taper. All sticks are tapered now, though the length of the taper varies by brand and model. I'd stay away from low kick sticks as they typically have elongated, exaggerated tapers to transfer as much energy as possible in a short time. Mid kicks will have shorter tapers because the uck is on the blade longer. Skates, I can't help you with brand and model. I've worn Supremes for as long as I can remember going all the way back to the Nike V12 before them. So I have no basis for what an old Supreme compares to. But what I would suggest is not getting the top of the line skate with the composite boot. The middle tier skates will have a tech mesh boot that will be softer and much more like your skates. They will be heavier though, but not as heavy as yours. true customs are another option.
  9. The new features of the 2S Pro are meant to provide a completely locked in fit with virtually no negative space. After a proper heat molding, the tongue should be holding the foot in the skate without tying the skates very tight at all. I had the same problem you are describing when I first got my 2S Pros, going from a MX3 (and NXG, One100, One95, and One 90 before that). Pulling the laces tight enough to make the skates feel tight caused numbness and pain. So I baked them again. This time I focused on getting better wrap from the sides and especially tongue by using my hands to help form it, better heel lock by tapping my heel backwards more firmly (I borrowed a piece of the floor mats from my rink for this), and taped pieces of foam to my foot in two areas that were causing hot spots. All the issues went away. I now have a skate that completely wraps and supports my foot while not having to tighten them very much at all and has no pressure spots inside. I think the issue is twofold. First, there is a ton of thick, heat moldable ankle padding. If you don't get that molded right, it's constantly pushing your feet forwards which causes all sorts of issues from the foot being improperly aligned in the boot. Second, the tongue is also very thick and heat moldable. If you don't get it properly insdie the skate and curved, it puts too much pressure on the top of your foot because you lose too much volume and it keeps you from getting the sides of the skate to wrap and fit properly. When all that happens, you end up having to tie the laces too tight and use the tongue to apply pressure to keep your foot in place, rather than using the wrap and mold of the boot to do that. You need to get your heel locked in and that tongue really pushed into the skate to get the best fit.
  10. Remember to read your casebook, not just the rule. For the puck out of play, the face off is located based on who caused the puck to go out of play. "Last play" faceoffs are determined by which team's actions caused the stoppage. In your case, the defending team caused the stoppage by deflecting the puck, and since it was inside his defending zone, the faceoff is at the nearest end-zone faceoff spot to where the puck went out. For the hand pass, it's defined in Situation 4 of the casebook https://www.usahockeyrulebook.com/page/show/1085021-handling-puck-with-hands
  11. IF you keep breaking steel, it's likely because your holders aren't mounted correctly.
  12. No, unfortunately I haven't used their mirror coated steel. From only what I've used, Blackedge was the best on the market. But, without the coating, Step beat Tydan for me.
  13. In my experience in terms of edge retention (ymmv): Blackedge > Step Blacksteel > Regular Step >/= Massive Black > regular Flare > regular Tydan >/= Bauer LS4 The last three regular steels are far below the coated steels and regular Step.
  14. I wonder if this is actually the cause of the lawsuit. Bauer knew CCM was planning on buying Step. They issued the cease and desist so that CCM would not be producing steel for Bauer holders once this went through.
  15. My thought on the hole is that it’s like all the strange Od1n tech they tested during the Olympics. This is the intro to the tech. The hole likely provides the best performance for that tech and so they went with it for this limited run. Future sticks, maybe whatever the top tier of the 3N will be called, will have the new shaft dimensions and a blade with a smaller, or no, hole. They’ll say it’s “powered by Slingtech”. It won’t be as effective as this ADV, but it will still be better than the regular blade. I think this is the new feature for top tier Nexus sticks. Vapor has the elliptical taper. Supreme has the hexagonal taper. Nexus will have the asymmetric shaft and slingtech blade.
  16. Pucks are made from vulcanized rubber. When warm, pucks are soft and two pucks would create a lot of friction when rubbed together. But cold pucks are hard and two slide across each other easily. Why would this tape be any different? At room temperature, I bet it works great. But as it cools it's going to become harder and less elastic. That certainly would affect things like durability and performance. Speaking of durability, my tape gets torn up whether from rubbing on the ice or boards, or cut from skates, other sticks, and pucks. What is the durability of this stuff? At $15 for a roll that looks like it would barely cover my typical tape job, it better last as long as however many uses I get from a regular roll. Sounds great, but I'm highly skeptical of their claims especially given the absolute lack of information or usage pictures other than the marketing speak on their website.
  17. I definitely would not use a P28 as a beginner stick. P92/29 or P88 are going to be what you want to start with. I personally would go with P88/P40 because it's a wide, flat blade without much rocker and it's a pretty vanilla curve that isn't too open. It will be easy to learn and master most skills with. I'd choose it over P92/29 because the P92 is a pretty upright lie 6 and has more rocker. I see a lot of beginners (I coach adult learn-to-play) using P92s with the toe of the blade well off the ice unless their hands are perfect and they're making a concerted effort to keep the blade down. Typically this ends up in the puck going under the toe because they don't get their hands right in time to receive the pass or pick up the puck.
  18. I just bought a second hand pro stock stick that is too short for me, so I need to add an extension. However, it's a 1NSE which has thicker sidewalls than regular Sr level sticks. I tried one for a regular Supreme stick I have and it didn't fit (though it was for a NXG, not the current lines). Should I be getting a Jr sized one? I don't really see an option for a Int. size. Am I just going to have to shave down a wood one?
  19. Despite what the label says, a P88 is a lie 5. It's just about as low as a PM9 and P28, and much lower than a Lie 6 P92. Edit: In fact, I just went and compared a P88 to a PM9 and the P88 is actually lower than the PM9.
  20. The 1X Lite was a pro stock, but the Trigger 2 was a retail 70.
  21. I went from a 77 flex to 70 flex 1X Lite and I like it much better. It flexes easily but still returns the energy quickly and still has a stiff feeling. I have a Trigger2 in both 75 and 70 and neither had the same feeling. The 70 was way too soft, it was sloppy and unresponsive. There was a lag with the release and a noticeable difference in stickhandling and receiving passes. I didn't experience any of that with the Bauer.
  22. Maybe that's it. The HSM pic of the CCM version looks much more closed than it is, almost similar to a shorter P10. That's what I want.
  23. Yep, this all makes perfect sense. That second curve is exactly what the Bauer Pro Custom curve looks like. The "beak" part of it is interesting, because it's almost like what Ryan O'Rielly has on the toe of his blade. The tip of the toe make a sharp angle, just not as severe as ROR's. For a while now, everyone has said that Bauer's Benn is the same as the P90T, including Bauer themselves. It is clearly not. I'd like a P90T, Bauer's Benn, not so much. Another problem is that people are using that P90T label interchangeably, or just slapping it on any curve that is inbetween, so there are many different curves that are being called P90T. Go on SLS and see how many different curves are listed if you search P90T. It's nuts.
  24. It's one of Bauer's "Pro Custom" offerings and is supposed to be what Benn uses. From Bauer's description : "BENN NHL CUSTOM CURVE. Similar to the P92 pattern with a beak toe (aggressive toe curve / edge) that makes it easier to toe drag and pull and release shots" I found it to be much closer to a P28 than the HSM article indicates and the picture shows. It's possible Bauer has increased the toe on it for their custom offering, but the actual curve is not what the HSM post describes as a P90T.
  25. I'm interested in that P90T. A lot of people say it's Bauer's "Benn", but his pattern is nothing like that. It's a P28 with a slight P92-like twist and a beak curve at the toe.
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